Hocrest |
05-23-2007 09:01 PM |
This is for the front, but the rear is similiar
- Get the entire end in the air.
- Rotate axle so that you can use a 3/16" punch to drive the axle pin out of the inner joint (front axle only)
- Remove wheel
- Put a punch through the witness hole in the caliper into the vent slots on the rotor, the purpose of this is to lock the wheel from spinning so you can loosen the axle nut.
- Use a punch to unstake the axle nut, then a 32mm (1 1/4") socket and breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. You will probably need a long cheater bar on the breaker to break this loose.
- Leave the loosened nut on the axle and use a drift or a block of wood and a hammer to pound the axle out of the hub. Just make sure it is loose, it won't be able to slide the whole way out yet.
- Undo the ball joint, either with the three 17mm bolts holding it to the control arm or the 14mm pinch bolt holding it in the spindle.
- Push the control arm down so you can pull the spindle away from the car giving enough room to completely slide the axle stub out of the hub.
- Slide the inner joint away from the transmission and remove the axle from the car.
A few notes.
- Some people also remove the tie-rod to make things easier
- Some remove the strut attachment bolts rather than the ball joint to get the spindle away. If you do this make sure to mark the position of the top bolt before you remove it, the top bolt is your camber adjustment.
- When reinstalling the inner joint make sure you have the hole aligned properly for the pin. It only goes one way, if you have it 180* off, the pin hole will be 1/2 a tooth off.
- Torque the axle nut to 125lbs, again using the pin in the caliper to hold the axle from spinning.
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