revving in D
 

first i want to throw out that that i live in nebraska and the average temp. in the morning is anywhere from 20-30 usually; but it is below freezing.

every morning i start my car before i leave for school and let it run for about 5 min. Recently though, i will begin driving and i'll come up to the first stoplight, which is always red so i have to stop. but when the light turns green i hit the gas and the engine just revs. the car is still in drive but it won't budge. im lost as for what to do.
what i have done is put the car in park and then back in drive and then ill hit the gas again, that doesnt usually work until the second time i do it.

it's frustrating for me and im sure its just the same for the people behind me that have to wait.

the car used to be my older brothers so i confronted him about it. he told me it happened a few times to him also. he thinks it's just because the engine isn't warm enough yet, so he recommended i let the car run a little longer in the morning. i still dont know though.

any help?



btw, i'd like to throw in that while i was at the drive thru at BK, the guy behind the counter told me my car was like a "mystery machine". anyone heard that before? ahaha

Definately something Trans related. I don't see how a cold engine wouldn't move the car.

Have you checked the fluid level/condition?
When it's at that almost too low stage you'll have cold drivability issues.
If the fluid level is fine, I reccommend a filter change to inspect the pickup tube in the tranny.

My car's been called a spaceship, A Probe & a 240SX. The best thing in the world is the WTF look on people's faces. *grin*

ill get that checked tonight
the manual says to drive around a bit to warm up the engine, and ill be able to do that a little later on
thanks

ill let you know how that works out for me

I agree. I would check the fluid level. When it warms up, it may expand enough to allow it to work properly and before it gets warm enough, it doesn't have enough fluid. I would check that first. :)

well, i checked the fluid level...and it was INSANELY high
way over the full limit

i proceeded to pump some out instead of going through all the trouble of draining all the fluid by pulling out the plug
the level is now at full
so i'll see how this all works out for tomorrow morning and the next few days

thanks
-trevor

You did check the fluid at normal operating temperature, idling in park, right?
It won't show the correct level if it's not running (and on a level surface)
Also, the distance between the L dot and the F dot, is one PINT (1/2 quart) not 1 quart like the engine!

Be careful how you go with this Trevor, in case you are compounding a problem. Too much ATF does not stop the car from moving, it will usually overflow out the filler pipe and/or burst some seals on you.

Too little ATF will stop the car moving.

Crazy is probably nearer the mark on your problem. Most likely culprit is a clogged strainer, and the pickup tube is not getting enough oil back in the box to run the system.

This may also explain why it's showing overfull; the oil can't get past the strainer back into the box.

You need to drop the sump and clean or replace the strainer. Then refill with clean oil, possibly use synth or semi-synth as you are in a cold place.

Pay particular attention when filling, don't overfill.

Your problem might also be caused by a sticking valve, BTW, but my guess is you have a clogged strainer.

Joe:)

Why don't you try driving in "3" for your normal city driving and let us know if the same symptoms happen.
I do all of my driving under 50 mph in 3, then shift to D when I exceed 50.

I do this for sure.
Also, 5 minutes to warm up when its below freezing is not near enough (IMO). I basically let it warm up to normal operating temp. ESPECIALLY when its below freezing.

When looking at your problem based on the exact information you have provided, there is no direct indication that engine temperature is involved. The only absolute evidence would indicate suspect adjustment of the manual control linkage.

On this basis, as well as what I have always advocated as a way of protecting your transmission, use 3 in lieu of drive and report back on the results.

Well, I drive in 3 also, but I can't see it making a difference to the scenario described here.

When the car is stopped, whether in D or 3, to start off from rest it will select 1 range, then move up the ratios.

So if it's not moving in D, I can't imagine why it would be any different or better for 3 range, it will still be trying to move off in 1.:confused:

I still think you have clogged strainer. It's not moving because the pickup tube can't get the oil back into the transmission.

Joe

[But I strongly agree driving in 3 is the way to go:)]

[hijack]
Sorry for the brief hijacking of the thread, but I've never heard this before. It does seem to be the consensus though, so perhaps it was information that was big on this site before I came along? Anyone care to give me a quick brief on it?

I'll drive in 3 instead of D from now on, I suppose. Didn't know it had ANY effect on the tranny whatsoever, unless I wanted to down-shift from OD or 4th to 3rd, probably on a highway.

[/hijack]

It has been clearly defined that the problem is specifically corrected my moving the manual range selector. The selector ultimately affects oil distribution as a prime function. It may not be moving fully into the "home" detent within the box, when in the drive position.

A clogged strainer would surely affect line pressure at all times and thus result in several problems.

I have always advocated that when “ Drive” is used at lower speeds, the transmission will hunt up and down through the ratios at every light throttle opportunity, thus causing unwarranted wear and tear. Therefore it is logical to use 3, unless on the open road.

Fourth ratio is actually, and more so in practice an overdrive, particular in US cars with a high final drive ratio. It would have been wise to have labelled the control as 1,2,D, O/D.