Rough Idle STILL
 

For the past few (6 to 8) weeks, when I start up my SVX in the Morning, it has a tapping sound like a sticky lifter. Months ago, someone suggested that a sticking valve might explain my long-term (11/02) intermittent rough idle after long sittings. I didn't think much about it back then, but now that I'm getting what sounds like a sticky lifter sound for a minute or two after (long stops) startup, maybe there's something to it.

What could it be? (lifter?) How to fix it? (I use Redline synthetic with metal treatment [local] about 10,000 miles old.)

THANKS for any HELP! :D

Wow, the problem that will not go away. Can you live with the rough idle? If not, you may want to find a good mechanic in the area. Have you tried another ECU?

Seems too early to be a dying oil pump.

Sticky Valve(s)?
 

Is it possible that this could be a sticky valve?

Yes, I thought this problem would have worsened (therefore, been diagnosed by now!) or I would have found some obscure loose ground, broken wire, or some wise SVXer would have just told me by now what this was! INTERMITTENT SUCKS!

Beav suggested to hold off on replacing ECU because he says they rarely fail. Someone told me I could find one for about $100. I've wanted to try, but am currently hard up enough financially to hesitate to "throw" another $100. part at the SVX!

Beav DID suggest taking this car to a good mechanic, but after my dealer experience in 11/02 (tried to sell me new AT for this problem!), and after running it by several other mechanics, no one has really any idea where to begin >> ESPECIALLY SINCE IT IS INTERMITTENT!! I can't take my car to someone for a week or two while we wait for the intermittent symptoms and their EVENTUAL diagnosis!

HHHHEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP! :confused: :D

I had a similar ticking a short time ago. I ran 2 consecutive tanks of gas through with fuel system cleaner in each. Ticking is now gone and has not come back since. It will not cost much to try this.

fuel treatment
 

I did put some valve un-sticking miracle additive (can't remember name) yesterday. I've done some fuel treatment 2 to 3 months ago (before the clicking started) to try and help the rough idle, to no avail. Why not, I'll do it again to see if it helps this problem - like you say, it's cheap! THANKS!:D :D :D

The BIG LEAP!
 

I guess I'll take my SVX to a Porsche mechanic who did some fairly routine maintenance work on my Ferrari - I was pleased with his work (valve adjust, timing belts/tensioners, adjust carbs/timing, stop leaks). He's just announced he'll take Japanese and European cars as well as his usual Porsches. So, I just have to get a little money before giving him a shot.

THANKS! :D

My ticking sound came back. It will be gone for a week and then come back for a day or 2 intermittently. On gotsubarus advice I dropped in a half quart of marvel mystery oil 3 days ago in the crankcase. So far the ticking hasn't been back since. We'll see how long it lasts. Really skeptical about additives that advertise they can go in the engine, tranny, and gas tank. But if its just a clogged oil passage to a lifter causing the ticking maybe this stuff will clean it out.
I change the oil every 3k and the valve covers looked very clean when I took them out so I'm not sure how something could be clogged. Who knows - if this doesn't work the next step is one of the engine cleaners beav raves about. I'd really like to put in an oil pressure gauge to see if the pump is getting weak. Is there a plug on the oil pump we can remove to put in a sending unit?

i've posted this before - dump a quart of ATF in the engine (not the gas tank!), drive the hell out of the car for 20-30 miles, and then change the oil and filter. it sounds insane, but it really works. i was really scared to do it to my 928 for the first time, but on the advice of several knowledgable folks on the 928 forum ("Porsche-Beavs"! ;) ), i tried it. after sitting for a few months each winter, it would sound like a diesel. i did the magic ATF trick, and it gave the engine its smooth growl back every time. :)

Alan, I vaguely heard about doing this over 40 years ago. Do you just pour in the uh...Dextron III? (I assume), or should you drain a quart of oil out first?

Ron (growling smoothly).

The solution to all subaru lifter noises is a can of Gunk engine flush, decent (midrange) new filter and a fresh oil (mineral will do nicely in California).

Just try it - your redline is old enough to be replaced, put new oil and filter in, you will probably discover that engine sounds better.

Unfortunately it is likely to be a separate problem from rough idling...

rough idle
 

can be caused by one or more bad spark plugs
possible crank trigger unit going bad
or MOST likley if your check engine lite isnt coming on
then good chance cleaning out the throttle body opening
with a good can of throttle body style carb cleaner
will help smooth things out.....and only cost 15 min of your
time and less then $5 for a large can
Do it while the engine is running, its a little
tricky .....but can be done. I do mine once a yr.

How do you do it and keep the engine running? Do you drill a hole in the intake boot and start spraying? My engine won't start without the intake boot in place.

it helps to have someone in the car re starting it when it dies
but once you get it started, if you manuelly keep the revs
up about 3K+ by hitting the throttle cable while you are under the hood......it can be done. I usually end up almost sitting on top of the engine while doing it. If it dies, have your buddy restart
the car for you. It wont run under 2000 rpms......

You could try to unplug the mass air flow sensor while you have it all disconnected, I havent tried that yet and it may help.
Its worth a shot......I may try on my car tonite.

try this
 

if the cars starts then dies, but you have to hold the rpm up to 3000k, and if the car is smoking alittle black, and when you floor the gas pedal rpm slowly raises up, hold it there for about 1.5-2 minutes, dont turn the car or ignition off when it dies.
then pull the ecu codes out .

put it this way to illuminate a check engine light on the svx. the car has to be in normal water temp. from there hold the rpm at 2400-2600k for 40 seconds steady, if you dont you have to start over again, you will for sure pull a code, either cam sensor near the battery, if you started pulling or disconnect items, clear the ecu memory, and start over, with the hold it steady for 40 sec with the watter temp in the middle, at 2300k rpm. it works most of the time