ATF Recommendations
 

I've decided to start draining and changing my auto trans fluid every 3000 or so miles when I change my oil. I'm having trouble finding a good quality ATF like the Subie Tech. Service Bulletin says. The dealer put in Quaker State but as long as it won't hurt it I'm willing to go with something else. Everyone I've talked to recommended staying away from synthetics unless I was going to rebuild it at the time I switched. Any recommendations on an ATF out there? Is it Dextron II or Dextron III (I've read conflicting things about using Dextron III in an import)? Finally about how much should I expect to get out by just draining the pan? Thanks for the imput.

I have been using Quaker State Dex III. I usually measure what comes out and put the same amount back in. This makes it easier to get the level right.:) It would be a good idea to pull the pan, clean the magnet and change the internal screen also.

atf fluid
 

Yeah I just had the pan dropped and cleaned and a new external filter put on about 2k ago. Its just time to change the oil after the meet and I'd like to get on the same schedule.

I wouldn't think you all would have to change it at every oil change, would you? Maybe every ten, or more..
You could always just put the same motor oil in both the engine AND tranny...hehe :D

hey g-
that was funny--i remember what happened 2 u
it was "effed" up but funny tho---
keep driving--squiggy:D :D

ATF change interval
 

15,000 is the minimum I have heard. If you want to change at 3,000 it can't hurt. Synthetic ATF is good, lower operating temp, longer life from effects of heat. Synthetic is regular ATF that has been chemically altered to perform better. Do the best you can afford for your tranny...

Re: ATF Recommendations
 

The tranny capacity is 10 quarts. If you drain the tranny via the drain plug you will get aprox 5 quarts out of the tranny, so... you will be adding 5 new quarts to 5 old quarts, not good. When you change ATF you want 10 quarts out and 10 quarts in, nothing less. Also remove the pan, replace or clean the filter and clean the magnet. Go to a service place that can do the above.

I just let the tranny pump most of it out via the cooler hose.

KuoH

ATF Flushes and such
 

The only time that I have been told that a flush is good for the car is when your rebuilding part of the tranny or you have toasted your fluid from a major overheating problem. Any other time it will simply move particles from where they are to the smaller spaces where they tend to get stuck plus the it causes problems with the torque convertor b/c it allows fluid to be lost from it meaning when you restart it runs dry for a fairly long period b/c of air pockets which remain in it. This is why you are to prime the torque conv. when replacing it or rebuilting it. Why then is there this push for tranny flushes by the dealers and such? Its simple they need to pay for the machine which is quite pricey and the franchise license with them. All of this comes from a Mercedes Master Mechanic. I just haven't a clue what to believe. I simply changed my fluid and put in Mob. Sythetic ATF III in. Only 3.75 came out but it took 5.5 after a week of letting it settle and all. It was on the low side of full now its just below the line. Hasn't affected the tranny temps a bit.

Usually I don't endorse any additives, most are snake oil come-ons. I/We've been using these products for about a year and the ones we've used so far do work. I don't want to start a debate over their merits, I just thought I'd throw this into the already on-going confusion. :p

http://www.lubegard.com/

Beav, what is your take on the periodic flush to get all the dirty fluid out and replace it with clean fluid. I have had this done a couple of times on my 92 Ford Aerostar AWD and it has now reached 130k without tranny problems. My mechanic uses a system which pumps fresh fluid in and monitors the outgoing fluid through a sight glass. Once the outgoing fluid is clean, it is done.

Also, is there a means to do something like this without this apparatus.

I've never used one personally. I remember seeing a waiver form from a nationwide lube shop when the machines first hit the market. About six pages long, spelling out that some transmissions have gone so long w/o service, some have overheated, some are just so old, etc., etc., that they wouldn't be held reliable in any way, shape or means should your tranny go t.u. aftewrwards. Some believe that the varnish build-up inside the tranny helps older seals to seal and once flushed away problems will/can/might occur. Then again some say that the varnish inhibits the internal parts from moving freely.

My opinion? If you're having problems a flush is like a band-aid on a gunshot wound. On some rare occasions a filter will plug from worn friction material deposits and not allow the unit to build ample line pressure. Changing the fluid and filter can help/cure that problem if no damage has occured already. Just remember that those deposits had to come from somewhere, and that in itself is an indicator.

As a periodic maintenance step, starting at around 30-50 thousand miles (unless more severe usage dictates shorter intervals) it could be a good thing. Just don't allow anything to be inserted that states that it 'softens hardened seals', that's a bad thing.

The thing to remember is that the cooling circuit is typically not full-flow. In other words not all of the fluid picked up through the filter goes entirely through the cooler. So if the flush machine is connected in that manner you will probably end up with a cleaner/better change than just by dumping the pan, but a 100% change would require a heckuva lot of fluid. I have only seen one machine that actually requires the pan to be removed. It has a cone shaped supply nozzle that rises from the center of the drain pan. This allows the removal of the filter, with the cone inserting into the hole/port that the filter normally feeds. As the car runs the tube supplies fresh fluid to the pump and the old fluid drains into the catch pan.

As someone has already stated elsewhere here, when these cars were assembled the friction materials used weren't anywhere near as good as what is used today. I'd think it would be safe to say that once these cars approach 100k it would be wise to have a few pennies saved up.

I would like to know how many people here have had any problems with the Subaru supplied reman tranny, and if so, how many miles did it have before the problem ocurred?

Beav,

Courtesy of one of the members when the members still frequented Wahoo, the transmission on my SVX was replaced at 84k miles. It's now got 180k miles, with a cooler installed and synthetics in place at 140k miles. FWIW.

The Lubeguard, are you referring to the ATF product? What do you mean by good results? As you can see by my mileage, I'm starting to get nervous... :)

VK

There are new ATF blends, required by some OEMs such as Mercon V and Chrysler 3, to address certain issues. Even when those oils are used we sometimes notice chatter and/or shuddering at convertor lock-up (for instance.) The sure cure for every car demonstrating this problem has been the LubeGard additives.

I haven't used anything other than their transmission supplements, but I wouldn't be afraid to try anything else they produce, based on the results we've had with the tranny products.

The description from the Lubeguard wants to make me just run out and get it...

- Reduces operating temperature, allowing transmissions to perform more efficiently
- Reduces transmission wear, extends fluid & transmission life
- Modifies harsh shifts & makes them quicker in duration

Sounds like the holy grail to me. :)

VK