Oxygen Sensors -- Source
 

I just came back from a site called oxygensensors.com. After much searching and pricing, I ordered my replacement sensors from them. I remember Beav posting, somewhere, that, when he changed his O2's he'd be buying cheap and doing a little soldering. I've taken his advice. Pricing for the SVX O2 Sensors is crazy and most of the auto parts chains have to special order them. From Subaru Parts, the OE's are 91.90 each, plus 10% Shipping. Autozone has the Bosch for 89.90 each (the least expensive I found, since Advance's price was 150.00 plus for Bosch and higher for B/A and B/W). None offered a universal 3-wire, which is what I was looking for. JC Whitney offers a universal 3 wire for about 35.00 plus shipping, and a Platinum tipped universal 3 wire for 53.00 plus shipping. When I show you pricing, you'll understand why I went with oxygensensors.com:

Universal 3 Wire 39.95 x 2 = 79.90 (with splice kit)

With OE Connector 64.99 x 2 = 129.98

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Warranty

We guarantee the oxygen sensors we sell to perform exactly and last as long as the oxygen sensors they are replacing. This guarantee covers both the performance and life of the sensor as rated by the vehicle manufacturer, which is listed in our online catalog by mileage. Oxygen sensors failing to meet expectation will be replaced or refunded by us, at our option, and upon return of the failing sensor. This guarantee covers only sensors retailed by us and does not cover misuse or physical breakage by the customer.

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Let us know how the sensors turn out and if they are indeed plug & play. I don't mind soldering, but I'd rather pay the extra $25 and know it has a good connection. At 180k+ miles, my SVX could probably use new O2 sensors as well.

KuoH

I'll be sure and let you know. So far, it's been a supurb "customer experience." Sent in my order at approximately 1:27 Local time. Immediately got a confirmation of my order. Within the hour (2:37 to be exact), I had notification that they had been shipped. Since they're coming from California, I don't expect I'll get them in time for the weekend (had them sent to my office. They'll likely arrive Saturday, when I'm not here), but will fill you in as soon as I can. A cool feature of this company is, that they put a real-time tracking link in their confirmation e-mail. We'll see what happens.

Did you get the ones that you will solder, or the plug and play ones? :) :D

I got the soldery ones (however, it comes with a solderless splice kit). You're not supposed to *have" to solder them, but, I will, just to be safe (like kuo, I want a good connection).

Dang! Do you remember everything I've said? heheheheh

I don't see any problem using generic sensors, I'll do it when the time comes. Check out the no-solder splices - they may be the type that screw together and seal out moisture, etc. If you still wanna solder 'em use some long pieces of good shrink tubing to seal them up. It's probably a good idea to leave the connector in place on the car - I've read some stories of moisture wicking (capillary action) all the way up to the ECU on some cars. Then again I don't believe everything I read. ;) :) Leaving the connector in place wouldn't allow any moisture to continue up the harness.

My co-workers have a saying: "Don't tell Wayne (they call me Wayne, at work. Long story) anything you don't want him to remember."

When you say, leave the connector "in place" on the car, What do you mean? Also, if they're the "screw" type, do you feel that type is adequate for a proper connection? If so, I'd just as soon skip the soldering step.

To be honest, this is only the second time I've ever had to change an O2 sensor on any of the cars I've owned. The last one was on my 80 Capri RS turbo, and I used an OE Ford "plug n play." It was an easy job.

Leaving the connector in place means just that. There's a connector at the opposite end of the wires from the sensor. Cut the sensor loose and leave the connector attached to the car's harness.

I'll look around and see if I can find a pic of the type splice/connector I'm referring to. Basically a barrel connector with screw caps at each end that snug down on the wire(s). There are also connectors that have a solder and sealer built inside, insert the wires and heat until the sealer oozes out.

I too went with the cheapola solder your own O2 sensors. About 80$ for two. Put them on the wifes car. I put the high dollar bosch 75$ X 2 on mine last year but thats cause I wasn't hip to the Walker brand which appear to work just fine. Just clip the existing connectors off of the old sensors and follow the supplied wiring diagram to solder them to the new sensors. About 45 minutes to an hour's worth of time. Whatever you do don't get any of the high temp anti-seize on the sensor whilst applying it to the threads.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Aredubjay
[B]


My co-workers have a saying: "Don't tell Wayne (they call me Wayne, at work. Long story) anything you don't want him to remember."


Hmmm... Wayne, huh? Are-DUB-Jay. DUB = WAYNE!!! That's it!!

R. "JOHN WAYNE" JOHNSON!!
It's OK, Randy - I won't tell.

Ron. (Hee-hee, I won't remember anyway).

I had "reckoned" that's what you meant, about "in place" while I was on my way home, last night, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Here's a pic of the sensor and connectors.

Crap, forgot to attach the pic, and you can't add it in "edit."

Randy,
what type of solderless connectors are those? i'll be replacing the THREE O2 sensors on my '97. :mad:

does mt 96 have three o2 sensors too?

My check engine light comes on and when I had my friend check it , his computer says code 37. Is this the O2 sensors? I have a 94 svx. What should I do if it is indeed the sensors and how much ami looking at. Another thing is , can this be a cause for excessive gas consumption. I think I only get 10mpg.