Clutch.
 

Ok, so my car is deffinetly charging me everything he didnt in one year... and now it looks like my clutch is slipping. I have a forester Tranny with a stage 2 clutch...

So what brand would you recomend?? Should I go stage 3?? Should I replace the flywheel for a lightweight aluminum or ceramic one??

And.... I've never done a clutch myself, and I dont have a transmisison jack, so... I have skills, but if it is way too complicated ill have to take it to the shop... but I predict its going to cost a fortune... and I still havent figured that misfiring issue..... :mad:

Suggestions??

BUMP!!! Nobody??? I got a quote at the shop for $750 to replace my clutch and resurface the flywheel.... but they told me they quoted the clutch from NAPA..... I dont think Napa sells stage 2 clutch kits for foresters.... but I asked him if it was a stage 2 clutch he said yes..... so I think is BS!!!

I've been checking clutch kits on eBay... and I wonder if this are good brands or not.

There is this F1 Racing. (sounds cheesy) They offer a "Stage 3" clutch for $183 + 18shipping.
RETAIL PRICE: $ 475

Horsepower Rating: 325 HP at the crank / Torque Capacity: 286 ft/lbsThis complete racing clutch kit includes:
F1 RACING Stage 3 heavy-duty Pressure Plate
F1 RACING Stage 3 copper ceramic 6-puck Disc
Release Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Alignment Tool

http://i12.ebayimg.com/01/i/03/e3/b3/04_1_b.JPG

I dont know... sounds too cheap for a stage 3... but I dont know... they may be good...

Then here is a Clutchmasters Stage 2 for $380+$20 shipping

Stage II Racing Heavy Duty 2100LBS Pressure Plate
Stage II 6 Puck Ceramic Sprung Racing Disc
Throwout bearing, Pilot bearing
Alignment tool
eCLUTCHMASTER STAGE II Racing Clutch Kit ® is a brand new heavy duty racing pressure plate with 6 puck spurng racing disc setup can hold up to 350-390 HP/TORQUE and 60% more pressure increase over stock.

http://i22.ebayimg.com/05/i/06/25/4f/25_1_b.JPG

Sounds better... but should I get a stage 3 or stage 2 is enough??? 3600lbs of bodywork seems to be a good candidate for Stage 3 right??

Then this is the Exedy OEM replacement for $162+$18 shipping

http://gripforce.com/images/ebay/clutches/KSB04.jpg

Also... I dont know what kind of flywheel I have, I dont know if its already lightweight or a stock forester wheel... I dont even know if its also a forester flywheel... should I get a new flywheel or just resurface mine....??? :confused:

Help... the clutch is starting to slip pretty bad.

It's more a case of the torque created by the engine....you should be able to use a stock replacement clutch. Make sure to check your flywheel when you pull things apart to make sure it isn't glazed (get it resurfaced if it is).
-Bill

Is it easier to drop the transmission or to take out the engine??? :confused:

Also.... can my Forester transmission use a WRX clutch??? Every thread I've read about it, everybody mentions the WRX clutch... but I dont know if my tranny is the same or similar to an impreza....

drop the tranny...I don't know why the WRX clutch wouldn't work...
-Bill

fixed it.
and also do your rear main seal while you're in there.

in a forester, it doesn't matter too much which route you go (engine/trans)
I would just drop the trans though given the extra clearance.
as long as you remove both half shafts, you can probably handle the trans with a single high lift floorjack with a decent size seat on it to lift with. you should be able to rent a tranny jack too, so check around with loan-a-tool places and even places like autozone.

like i've said in the past on here, you can't go based on "stage" whatever when it comes to clutches. Get REAL tested numbers, not %'s and such.
Also keep in mind that racing clutches wear faster and are harder on you engine/trans. so don't go too much more than you really need or plan to need. Doesn't make too much sense to kill your car and make it harsher to drive for no reason.

i have a stage 1 excedy clutch in my svx, it has all the grip i could ever need.
I reccomend going stage 1 unless you need the extra grip. it actually says on most web sites that stage 2-3 clutches are reccomended for track use only. reason being they don't last as long. also going with a quality brand name clutch usually means that it's going to last longer and grip better then some noname stage w/e brand.
also +1 on look for actual dyno # that the clutch can hold
also is your tranny hydrolic, or cable actuated?
all that really matters with subarus is wether it's a puller or a pusher, if you have a hydrolic tranniy you have a puller clutch, and the wrx clutch will work. If you have a cable trannie it's a pusher and you should be looking for a 2.5 rs clutch.
enjoy
jeff

That's odd. The stage 1 WRX F1 clutch holds as much power as the stage 3 Forester?
That's the one I got, along with the flywheel. Soon as I get it and install it I'll tell you if the brand is any good.

My tranny's clutch fork is hidraulic, so I guess that's a puller.

I already have a stage 2, the pedal is REALLY stiff, but i already got used to it and I like it. I dont go to the track that muchm but I'd like to go once in a while or autocross sometimes, so I guess Stage 2 is the least ill go. So if my tranny came from a forester (1998+ right?) it should take a WRX clutch??

correct as far as i understand all hydro's are the same, and all cable's are the same.
my only point was that a stage 1 would last longer if the car is a daily driver.
also for a fly wheel i have an act street light cost $240 plus shipping i reccomend it, light enough to feel the differance, but still very streetable