RePost: New info help!
 

WHen driving around for extended periods of time in hot weather at city speeds my temp gauge begins to go up along with my check engine light coming on. I replaced the rad about 6 months ago. Could this just be a bad coolant/water ratio problem or bad coolant? Any suggestions?

check the coolent level in the rad. not just the over flow tank if its low at all add more.... also run a scan on the check engine light if it is the temp sensor you might want to replace that as well

If the Check Engine light has come on, that means the computer has detected a problem. You can get it to tell you what the problem is. Have a look in the "How-To Documents" in the section about reading ECU codes.

Well i checked the ECU and got the codes 22 and 31. Knock sensor 1 and throttle sensor...Can someone tell me what i need to replace or get checked out? Does this have anything to do with my problem or are these important issues to get fixed?

It's not a mixture problem. It will function with 100% coolant or 100% water.

The problem will be either flow related (water pump), electrical (fans not coming on) or else there may be air in the system (possible head gasket).

I blame the engine light coming on to my knock sensor for now...ill get that replaced. Can someone help me out with the throttle sensor or what problems might be having this code come up? do the problems i have have anything to do with this code or are there other problems that may arise from it? I don't really know what the throttle sensor code coming up would be...no obvious throttle/throttle circuit problems that im aware of... any input for this?

My notes which should be of assistance:-

ADJUSTING AND CLEANING THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.

In order to adjust the TPS the manual says to measure voltage at the TPS by inserting meter probes into the plug at the ECU plug connection. Nice and easy that is ! In order to accomplish the feat at the TPS itself, therefore without tying yourself in a knot under the dash, you will require, best of all one of those dress making pins with a nice thin shank and a knob on the end, or a thin needle. Also a meter to measure 0.5 volts d.c..

The TPS comprises a potentiometer, presumably used in a voltage divider configuration, as three wires come from it. There is a plug and socket close to the unit so that it can be easily removed for servicing. At this plug the wires are --- black ground and one end of the resistance element, red the other end and white the wiping contact.

Stick your pin right through the white insulated wire, so that you can clip your meter lead onto it to make measurements. A fine pin will not damage the conductors as they will spread and there will be no significant damage to the insulation. Measure between the wiper, i.e. white wire and ground by connecting to engine, chassis, battery negative, or whatever.

If you remove the unit, stick the pin in before replacing it, as it is much easier to do on the bench. Don't forget to pull it out when you have done the deed.

Now from the book :-- 1. Connect all connectors. 2. loosen TPS fixing screws. 3. Turn ignition on. 4. Adjust TPS position while throttle valve is confirmed FULLY closed, to specified voltage, using a volt meter. 5. tighten fixing screws.

The voltage is specified as within a tolerance of from 0.45 to 0.55 volts. You should have no trouble in setting things at exactly half a volt.

Before removing the TPS or altering the original setting it is a good idea to mark the mating castings with a scratch so that one can check on the adjustment, before and after, as a matter of interest. It is always nice to know if the effort expended has in fact improved things.

CLEANING AND CHECKING.

After removal the unit it is easily checked with an ohm meter for smooth operation or otherwise. Evan without dismantling the unit a spray with CRC or similar cleaner and a work out will do wonders. The resistance end to end ( black to red ) should measure very close to 5000 ohms. Measuring between white and red or black should show a smooooooth change in resistance when moving the control shaft over full distance.

A voltage check on the output as the mechanism is operated while connected and energised, will also give an indication of possible intermittent contact. Again using a needle or pin to make contact can be helpful.

A meter with a bar graph will show up short duration faults much better than a normal instrument, digital or analogue, as both have an inherent time delay before indication is registered. This factor should be taken into account.