Shift Kit for Automatics from Small Car?
 

Has anyone installed this shift kit from Small Car for automatics yet? Just wondering if it really does help. If I do go and buy this, does this void my warrenty on my "New" rebuilt transmission from Subaru? I just got my transmission this past Febuary. Thanks. Here is Small Car's link:



www.smallcar.com/svx/tsk.htm

Dude, I've heard that it really helps out the shifts and makes them alot firmer... But it makes the CE Light come on.... Ask Chicane, he has it and I think that Immortal_Suby was trying to get it too.... There are some more out there but I don't really know who because I don't pay attention to Auto things anymore1!!!:D :cool: :D :cool:

It makes the CE light come on? It shouldn't have anything to do with that. I understand that it makes the power light blink on startup, but that should be the only light it triggers.

I'd like to try this little kit, too, but only if Small Car produces a version that doesn;t make the power light blink. Sorry, I'm just that much of a purist. :)

Really, I'd like to make sure that if the power light blinks, it's for a good reason. I don't want to get used to seeing it blink every time I start it and then not know when something is really about to fail.

Try this thread for everything you've ever wanted to know about the Small Cars shift kit:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...threadid=10283

-Bill

I got one on my car and I added some resistors, so the power light does not flash. I can feel the difference

I have it - no CE light but power light blinks on startup - no big deal. Kit works great - highly recommended mod. Well worth the very low price tag. Totally adjustable for firmer or harder shifts. Very easy to install.

I have it but haven't installed it yet. I'm lazy. :) I'm actually just waiting for hte perfect time to do a bunch of things at once.

- Rob

What resistors exactly did you add?
I put one on my wife's Impreza Outback Sport, it works great, but causes the CE to stay lit (only a problem on OBDII cars 96-up).

Specific part numbers and how to wire them in would be great, as I'm a electrical idiot....:rolleyes:

I connected 8 4.7K ohm and 1 2.2K ohm ¼ watt resisters all in parallel for a total of around 508 ohms 2.25 watts. I then connected one end of this setup to the unused connector on the shift kit switch and the other end I tapped into the other side of the OEM resister wire. So now when the switch opens there is 508 ohms that the computer thinks is the OEM resister. The car still shifts as if there was no resister there.

I connected 8 4.7K ohm and 1 2.2K ohm ¼ watt resisters all in parallel for a total of around 508 ohms 2.25 watts. I then connected one end of this setup to the unused connector on the shift kit switch and the other end I tapped into the other side of the OEM resister wire. So now when the switch opens there is 508 ohms that the computer thinks is the OEM resister. The car still shifts as if there was no resister there.

I am not a electronics person, do you think you could have pictures in your locker of what you did in your locker with perhaps call outs where you place the 8 4.7K ohm and the 1 2.2k OHM ¼ watt resisters looks like? And could I just buy these resistors at a local Radio Shack store? I am planning to buy that shift kit from small car, and would like to do the same as you. Thanks.


awdsvx:)

Ditto what he said.:D

I would suggest that everyone wait for Brian to complete some experiments but if you are in a hurry purchase a 470 ohm 5 watt wire wound resistor from an electronic store ( say 50 cents worth ).

Leave the the pressure switch connected as per shift kit instructions. Connect the resistor, one end to the green / red lead from the TCU to the dropping resistor ( i.e. the one that does not go to the switch ) and the other end to the green / yellow lead going from the switch to the solenoid. ( i.e. the one which does not go to the resistor )

With this arrangement 470 ohms is in circuit with the TCU and the solenoid at all times and should in the experience of AFBeefcake stop a fault signal. The very small current and signal still being passed to the solenoid should have little if any effect on solenoid operation and therefore line pressure. If this does not stop fault indication try 220 ohms and you may as well purchase one with the 470 to save time.