"Houston, the SVX has two problems!!"
 

My '92 SVX has developed two problems.
#1) This is the most alarming. When I step on the brake pedal to slow the car down there is a severe pulsing (judder) in the pedal and steering wheel. The severity of the shaking increases the faster I'm going and/or when it is warmer. This just started last week.
#2) The 'check engine' light comes on and stays on when I start the car when the car is warmed up. It does not come on when the car is cold (first thing in morning). This has been happening for about 3 weeks. The is no blinking of the power light. and the engine runs perfectly smooth and quiet. I had the dealer service run The code reader but his code reader did not pick up anything (It wouldn't read - only said 'error').

I run the car only very sparingly. Thank the Lord that we have other cars.
Any suggestions? Thanks.

Wow why do I keep hearing these dealer stories? Do they not want to work on our cars or are they that dumb? Maybe if he looked at the service manuel and found out how to check the codes instead of just pluging in the select monitor and duhhh it don't work shucks! Here's where you out smart the dealer sir... look up how to pull codes in the how to docs (the link is at the top of the page). Then you just have to post them and we can help you figure out what needs to be fixed from there. Oh and the pusation you feel is your rotors and based on what you said I would say its your front rotors. You can pull them your self and have them turned (assuming they are within spec) or take the car to any brake shop and have them do it all for you.

Good luck!

Thanks for the reply.

First, he knows how to work the codes. Both of us thought hst there was a short in the wires from the reader to the adaptor plug which connects to the plug in the SVX.
Second, I think that the shaking is too violent for it to be just wavy rotors. I think it is a brake pad actuating piston that is sticking and not returning when the brakes are applied.

Bad control arm bushings can cause a shake like that.

Too bad you won't be at Reading. We'll miss you guys...

Larry,

Couple of ideas:

1. clear the codes using both of the blue leads in the kick panel (following the directions in the "How To" document)

2. leave the battery disconnected overnight

3. check the balance of the front tires/rotate them

4. check the condition of the front rotors

5. check the general condition of the front suspension (is everything tight?)

-Bill

Could be a...
 

maybe a bent hub.
that would shake when the brakes are applied.

After market new rotors are only about $60.00.
I have had them on the front and are great.
Made in USA also!!! :) said so right on the box.
Oh... That was probably referring to the BOX! :lol:

Take care,
Keith

I actually have the same issue with the pulsating but the severity depends on the type of road Im on. Hopefully this summer ill get around to getting the control arms changed.

check to make sure your lug nuts are tight.

When the feel a reaction via the steering wheel, does the wheel pull in a single direction, i.e. left or right, or do you feel a random reaction? If it is directional you will no which side to suspect.

Can you recall any event prior to the fault developing which could be aligned with the problem? Physical impact, some other work done, whatever. You must heed the check engine light regardless of the dealer at this stage. It is strange that he did not also do a little simple physical checking.

The trouble code will be recorded and displayed by the LED on the the ABS control unit. On my JDM car this is under the right hand front seat and is accessed via a lift up panel in the carpet. Yours could be different. The available codes are quite comprehensive.

In view of the fact that a fault is registered, a component fault other than a grabbing brake can be suspected, particularly as you have drawn special importance to a pulsing pedal; e.g. wheel sensor, ABS unit including the often reported relay, as well as the power braking system.

Did he use the SVX adaptor cable? And was he using a Select Monitor 3? The SM3 won't connect with the older cars, SM2 and SM1 will, use the MY97- cartridge

I think the cable depends on the year, we have an adaptor cable, but I didn't have to use it when I connected the SM2 to my 92 SVX.

as for the brakes, i had the problem tried to bed them in & turn them with no luck.....switched to R1concept F+R & pads, she stops so smooth and quiet even over 110mph, never going back! couldn't be happier from spending under $250.

could be bearings, hub, or axle... but i doubt it, OEM rotors on this car have always been sub-par.

oh, don't forget to inspect the ABS excitor ring. mine was broke supposedly when the rookie at discout tire cross-threaded 3 of the 5 lugs then let me drive away:eek:. i still think the guys at the repair shop broke it trying to replace the lugs:rolleyes:.