bushings and cheap suspension upgrades: Install pics and first impressions
 

Yeah, I know..It's a long, long thread title. So we'll abrev. it to the "B&CSU:IP&FP" thread

Anyways, I was happy to see I got a special package in the mail from our friend, Original Tom. For some reason, it looked like it came from columbia, and I thought that was funny, so I took a digital photograph
http://simplepic.net/albums/userpics...l_DSCN1230.JPG
**Free puzzle box with each shipment**
After sevral long minutes of tearing through multiple multiple layers of tape, paper, cardboard, ect..I finaly get to the 20$ swaybar-endlink bushings
http://simplepic.net/albums/userpics...l_DSCN1231.JPG

So today's mission was to get something done. tom's bushings arent the only uninstalled goodies in my inventory: I have both front and rear swaybar bushings.Ive also sourced the 15$ mod, just need to pick it up. That being said, I decided today was a good day to get the front done. I dun into my inventory, and pulled out my front bushings, Which, because I had installed them on my parts car just shortly before it became a parts car...pulling them from the inventory meant uninstalling them. I also decided to pull the rear sway bar out while I had the car up...more on that later

So anyway, I cleaned them up real quick, and got to work replacing the not-so worn factory bushings with the poly ones. Some helpful tips for anyone doing this: One, the polyurethane bushings will need to be notched in order to clear the frame rail. Im pretty sure this only has to be done to the passenger side, but I did both when I originally did the install. Essentially, you need to cut a 1/4 x 1/4 inch corner off the inside edge,a well as make a groove for the legs of the clamp to rest in,as seen here:
http://simplepic.net/albums/userpics...l_DSCN1232.JPG
The new polyurethane bushing is on top, the old rubber on the bottom.
Another thing:The drivers side is diffent from the passenger side, due to the clampy thingy for the sway bar arm. You'll know what I mean when you get in there, trust me. Anyhow, it seems easiest if you unbolt the drivers side bushing first, and remove the clamp and bushing. Now when you do the passenger side, you can pull the whole sway bar out of the way. when re-installing, you''l notice (Hopefully before you tighten it) that the clamp isnt symetrical. One leg is longer than the other...make sure you put t on crrectly, otherwise the bushing won't seat properly. you can probably see what I mean here
http://simplepic.net/albums/userpics...l_DSCN1233.JPG
The only tool you really need for this is a 12mm flat wrench. The ratcheting kind would have made this job ALOT faster. a flat head screwdriver might be needed to get the polyurethane bushing spread enough to fit over the sway bar. At this point you'll realize just how stiff theese things are

I still had some time today, so I did a quick sand and rattle can job on the extra sway bar, and installed tom's bushings. Ill be perfectly honest...When I was playing around with them, I didnt know if the fitment between the rubber peice and the brass peice was snug enough, but it became apparent I was wrong when I pressed them into the bar end. Like Tom says, its best to put the rubber in first, then the brass. It didnt take too long, and now I have a whole, clean unit reay to install in the upcoming week.
http://simplepic.net/albums/userpics...l_DSCN1238.JPG

Driving impressions: With just the front bushings done, I can actually feel why everyone wants to tighten up the rear. The front feels crisp, and quick to respond, but the back seems slow to react. on a low speed abrupt lane change, you can actualy feel the back end go :confused: "Oh yeah!!!" and then turn in. The effect is only amplified when the front is stiffened a bit with the polyurethane bushings. Im hoping between the subframe spacer, endlinks, sway bar bushings, and my alreay installed poly rear diff and tranny mounts, this effect is eliminated entirely. Now if only I knew how to drive:rolleyes:

:domo: ...well, I enjoyed ready this thread. Thanks for the time/effort and input.

Very cool eric. Cant wait to hear about the results when you install the rear :D

Thread hijack only for a moment.

Original (much nicer than old) Tom:

Sent you a PM about this mod. Would like to purchase. Let me know

Dan

Update:
 

Well, I FINALLY got around to doing the rear stuff. Sadly, my camera is lost somewhere in the abyss that is my bedroom:rolleyes: So Ill have to update this post later with pictures.
So, I started the morning with a few small boxes and packages, and ended with all around better suspension performance. As already seen, I had a spare swaybar that I pushed svxfiles's's's bushings into. I also had a spare set of endlinks themselves, which I drilled while off the car. Also in my box-o-goods (Though not as good as a box-o-wine) were the polyurethane swaybar bushings, and the two subframe spacers who's usage and part numbers were given to me via OT. (Note to self..Picture / part numbers here)

First on the chopping block; the subframe spacers. When you look at the subframe bushing, you can CLEARLY see a larg gap...mabey about 3/16 inch or so. The spacer effectively fills this gap, allowing for less play of the subframe to which most f the suspension components are bolted to.
Installation instructions...Step 1: Loosen the 17mm nut that holds the rubber bonded washer thing in place. Step 2: Put the thick spacer on the bolt, and reinstall (Picture here too)

I found it easier to remove the endlinks for drilling, as Im not a fan of metal shrapnel in my eyes, and trying to hold a wigglyy thing while drilling. To remove the endlinks, simply unbolt the 12mm nut at the top that goes through the swaybar, and loosten the 14mm bottom bolt. There IS a special trick to this...You'll need a 14mm flat wrench to hold the back side of the nut, between the hub and the rubbery thingamabob at the end of the end link (More picture here) With the endlink out, it is much easier to drill, as you can put it in a vice. You can also go ahead and remove any rust, paint it, ect. if you feel it's needed

Since the endlinks are out of your way, you can easily press svxfiles's's'ss bushings into the swaybar. Its best to put the rubber part in first, then the brass insert. Though lubrication isnt necicarry, I decided for the rubber-metal contact that some of the extra sway bar bushing grease would be appropriate to add, and it did help the install a bit.

Now it's time top put your endlinks back in....same way they came out, only backwards. Make sure everything is oriented correctly (If you have trouble remembering how things went back together, you can always do this one side at a time, so you have a reference) You'll need a 14mm flat wrench and a (Guessing 8mm) allen key wrench to tighten up the new, larger bolt tom provides for his endlink bushing. (Picture a picture here)

Now for the part that sucked for me...the rear sway bar bushings. Now, the replacements are allegedly a factory fit. Um. No. No they arent.
The factory bushing is narrower than the replacment, which, oh, great! We have thicker bushings! BUT, it makes it a tight fitment at the bends of the swaybar. Also, the factory bracket does not fit the new bushings....So you have to use the bracket they provide. The factory bracket is staggered, just like the front (One leg is longer than the other) AND has the nuts spot welded to it. The solution: use the bracket provided with the new bushings, and tighten the ever loving snot out of it, untill it bends to the correct shape. I dont know if hardware was supposed to be supplied with the kit(I only got washers:confused:) but I used stainless hardware store bolts with nylock nuts and some nice washers.

Anyhow...back on track...To remove the factory bushings, you'll need a 12mm ratchet and a few extensions. The bolts go into the bracket from behind...The bottom bolt is easily accessible, but the top isnt. a flat wrench, even a ratchetng one, won't be able to move enough to tun the bolt...So you need to ue a ratchet. Of course, it wont just FIT there, so you'll have to do some creative fitment. I used an extension to get past the exhaust and hangers, and it went pretty easilly.(insert image)
The good thing about the new diy mounting hardware was I was able to put the nuts up front, so Id only have to hold the bolt from behind with a flat wrench while I turned from the front

the final verdict: WOW!
As soon as I pulled it out of the driveway I felt the diffrence. The car do the usual "Lean and waddle" when I made the sharp left onto the road.I took it for a short but spirited drive. the car feels more sprightly..It turns in faster, and the rear end finally keeps up with the front. The car stays a little flatter, and the steering feel is much better. All in all, it just feels more stable on the back roads. Theese upgrades definantly allow you to make better use of your factory suspension components.
For anyone looking to do a cheap upgrade to their suspension, or something to compliment other mods (albeit suspension, brake, or engine mods) this is quite possibly the best 70$ you can spend.

Hmmm, do you have any pics of the rear swaybar bushings?? And where'd you get them. I got the 15min/$15 mod in, just waiting for the 20min/$20 mod from OT. I bought the front swaybar bushings, just gotta put them in. Aynway, where'd you get the rear swaybar bushings and how much???

Thanks for the posting. I always love threads like this where during installation, pics are shown to show stages in the install and such. It makes you seem like you are going through the same thing and it helps when you take on the same project.

How doe the ride compare to a stock setup? Is it a lot firmer or harsh in anyway?