Duty Solenoid A
 

So I have got a problem with duty solenoid A, and got alot of information on replacing it, especially this:

Ok, this doesnt sound too hard to do, and I've done enough work on my SVX to probably not have a problem. My only questions are
1: Is there any way that I can get JUST solenoid A, and not have to deal with buying a pack of 3 from subaruparts.com? Does anyone possibly have an extra one they are willing to sell?
2: What does dropping the valve body entail? How much work is it, how hard is it, and what will I need?

Don't forget to get a new pan gasket while you're at it. If the one on it now is original, it will likely come off in pieces.

KuoH

"So I have got a problem with duty solenoid A"

Looks like I graduated to this thread too. I pulled a
Duty solenoid A code just now. My AWD doesn't seem to be working either.
Could that be why? Anyone? TIA. :D

I'm in this boat as well...

Group buy on Solenoid A's!?!

Also, I just had my Solenoid C replaced about a year ago... I wonder what condition my pan gasket is in... it'd be nice to be able to re-use it, but I'll probaby have to replace it, as I'll likely damage it just taking off the pan.

If the solenoids are only available in 3-packs, I wonder if the shop that did my Solenoid C has a spare A left over from the repair... hrmmm.

Finally, does anyone have the part numbers for the solenoids?

Edit: before I really decide that I need to swap the solenoid, are there any steps that can be taken to make sure it's not just a wiring issue, or something outside of the tranny? Where should I check to make sure it's not the shift resistor (or whatever that bit is that the shift kits modify)? Are there any other bits to check?

I'm in this boat as well...

Is your AWD working? Are you sure?

Your AWD system should be a totally unrelated matter to duty solenoid A. Solenoid A is only controlling the line pressure in the transmission, and would have no control over anyhting AWD related.

Your AWD system should be a totally unrelated matter to duty solenoid A.
OK, thank you!

I'm not totally sure. As I mentioned in the other thread, I've noticed a lot of torque-steer and front wheel slipping when accelerating hard, especially out of a corner. I'm not sure if that means I'm totally FWD, or if the tranny is just having a tough time transferring power to the rear quickly, or what.

Since I has Solenoid C as well as the transfer clutch pack thingy replaced about a year ago, I would think that my AWD should be working fine. IIRC it's Solenoid C that controls the torque transfer between front and rear. Solenoid A only controls the line pressure during shifts... essentially lowering the line pressure to smooth out the shifting. Since I'm getting hard shifts (especially when it's cold) that really does sound like a Solenoid A issue. When my Solenoid C was bad, I was getting all sorts of shuddering and binding from the rear when turning, something that's not happening at all now.

The final symptom I'm getting is that the tranny hunts for a gear when in 3rd and decelerating down a hill. I used to be able to toss the car in 3rd while coasting down a hill and use the engine as a brake to maintain speed. However, now when I throw it in 3rd it's like the TC unlocks and the rpms drop and the car coasts in neutral, then the TC locks back up, the rpms come up, the car slows down... but only for a second as the TC unlocks again, then the scenario repeats. I thought that meant I had a bad Solenoid B, and I could have sworn that's the code I pulled a few months back when I first checked the codes, but now I'm definately getting a Solenoid A error. Could a Solenoid A code obscure a Solenoid B code? Perhaps I should replace A and B while I'm in there.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure I'm really going to find out how bad the tranny is broken as soon as it snows and I'm stuck spinning the front tires... which is why I'm contemplating trying to fix the tranny myself ASAP.

...if only I could bump up my 5MT swap! Unfortuantely, my other car is in the shop getting a new motor, and I can't have 'em both down at the same time. It seems like such a waste of money to repair my 4EAT when I'm planning a 5MT swap in the spring... but if the car doesn't last the winter, I'm gonna have to do something sooner than later!

A solenoid faults?
 

Sperry the A solenoid does alter the line pressure for the changes and oil temp, etc. The main control over the line pressure is the Throttle position, through the dropping resistor, behind the battery. The symptions that you give, hunting for 3rd over run, is more a problem with this Throttle pressure feed. The TCU looks for a 'closed throttle' signal from the TPS, to apply the over run clutch, it looks like it is not finding it.

Do you have 'the shift kit' fitted, if the TCU see an "out of limits" current flow in that line, it will give a Solenoid A code. When the kit is fitted, this offen happens, or if there is some other problem with the dropping resistor, the same code will show.

I would try all else,before replacing the solenoid, as when it is faulty, the line pressure is held high all the time, but the 3rd gear over run will still work.

Harvey. ;)

From what I hear, the searching for gears on a hill is caused by a disconnected resistor, which commonly causes a flashing power light. Even if your resistor is not disconnected, it could possibly just be bad. Check the electrical resistance of the resistor, I beleive it should be somwhere between 8 and 15 ohms, but dont quote me on that, I would do a search if I were you.

When I disconnected my resistor, due to intermittent an intermittent code 11, the car would almost launch out of park if I shifted it right after startup. I didn't notice any gear hunting, but there aren't that many hills here in KC that are big enough for me to tell. Now that I have a brand new resistor installed, the shifts are smooth, but I'm still getting a code 11 from time to time. Guess I'll be in on that solenoid A group buy as well. :rolleyes:

KuoH

If the solenoids come in three packs, and you have to drop the pan to replace them, then why not just do them all at once?

Might be a good idea. But according to this diagram (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...tachmentid=629)
they seem to not all be located in the same place. But its probably not a bad idea to do it at once.

You guys are the best. Thanks for all the info. Anyone have a used resistor
for sale in this thread? (and don't say yeah, give me a minute...!)

Great info! I don't have a shift kit on the car, so I'll certainly check the resistor first. I'd much rather just fix an electrical problem than have to deal with the mess of draining the tranny and dropping the pan in my garage.

Now, I just need to find out where this mystical resistor is... "Quick Robin, to the search button!"