A Big Project (any Tips?)
 

Im going to have the engine removed so I can overhaul it. Befor I do this anyone have anything to say? I know a few of you have done it, I just wanted to know how hard it was before I start on a big project. Thanks ~Dennis

My recommendations
 

I've pulled one to change headgaskets, one to dismantle the a nasty wreck, and will be pulling another one for parts shortly.

First, if you don't already have it, get the factory service manual. It lists items you need to remove to pull the engine, torque values for the internals, and the sequence of dis-assembly and re-assembly. Remove everything in front of the engine that may get damaged if it gets swinging when being removed (radiator, charcoal canister, fans, ect. Have a 1/2" and 3/8" drive torque wrench available. Torque values for the cam caps are very low. Drain the oil from the engine prior to pulling. Leave the oil filter in place to avoid drips. Label everything on the teardown. I use tape tabs with numbers on BOTH sections of mating hoses, wiring bundles, cables, etc. It may seem easy to remember now, but when you go to re-install the engine it will save you a lot of time. Take notes and pictures if they will help. Make sure you have a complete set of metric tools (wrenches-open and box, sockets, ratchets and breaker bars). Spray the exhaust bolts with penetrating oil before attempting to remove them. Use 6 point sockets on the rusty fasteners to reduce the possibilty of rounding the off.

That's it for now. Good luck!

Todd

whats wrong with it?

There is alot of things wrong with it. It needs a couple gaskets on the bottom, and on the sides. It needs a new crank pulley and belts, also the part inside the engine that the crank pulley screws into has a good sized chip out of it. The engine has almost 200,00 miles on it and is covered in oil. I want to remove it to clean it up well, and fix the problems. ~Dennis

You mean the crankshaft!?!? Have fun replacing that. Looks like you are in for a complete teardown.

If your crank is truly broken, it would probably be better (read: cheaper) to find a used engine or another car.

does the crank pully bolt directly to the crank, or is there some other piece that is a buffer between the crank and the outside world?

Pretty sure it is one piece. ~$700 for a new one and god knows how many hours of labor. Not to mention what else you should replace as long as everything is apart. Esp. at 200k miles.

No offense mysvxrocks, but you don't sound like you have the technical knowhow to tear apart and rebuild the entire engine. Forgive me if I am wrong, I am just going off the content of your posts. If the crankshaft is broken it will be a very large task. Possibly a picture of the problem can help to tell if it is broken or not.

If you are just going to do valve cover gaskets and other seals and clean the engine, don't pull it. It would be a waste of your time. That is, if the crank is not broken.

pulling the engine( if you know how to do it) is the easiest way to reseal the engine. Pull it out, this way you can easily do cam seals and plugs, front and rear crank seals, valve cover seals and washer seals. It will make life much easier in the long run. Should only be a weekend project too.

as long as you don't drop a camshaft:p (sorry Tom, I couldn't resist!:D )
-Bill

Ouch! Low blow... ;) :p :p

-Chike

Bad for Tom but...
 

worked OK for me!!!

:D

Todd

he shouldn't have to pull his cams. anyway that was low and i will get you back. just wait, or we can just race and maybe the blow will move onto you.hehehe im faster:D :D :D

Oh man.... Talk about a comeback!

I'm not surprised your car is faster - SVXRide's is still 'stock'! ;)

-Chike