A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
So I noticed one day that the dipstick was out. I pushed back in and drove the car a few times and it didn't pop out. After a couple of weeks, it was out again. I noticed it when I went to work on the hood squeak.
I know the two issues are the rubber o-ring and the PCV valve. I know that a new o-ring usually solves the problem. My concern is what if it is the PCV valve? Getting a better seal on that dipstick would only cause the pressures to rise and there might not be any other immediate symptoms of a stuck PCV valve. Assuming that were the case, what damage could be done by not replacing a bad PCV because either one doesn't know about it or one saw a symptom but fixed that symptom another way and assumed the PCV valve was OK? Normally I would just replace the o-ring and not worry too much about it but I have another symptom that might point to the PCV valve in an indirect way. When the weather got cold my idle would bounce immediately after starting the car. It would jump up to a normal RPM first. Then it would drop very low and nearly stall. Then it would bounce back to the normal cold RPM again. Then it would drop again but not as low. This repeats and the "undershoot" is less each time until the car finally settles on the normal RPM for a cold idle. It takes all of about 5 seconds for this to happen. From what I have read, it sounds like this could be due to a stuck AACV and the AACV could be stuck due to oil being pushed out which in turn could be due to the stuck PCV valve. However, this bouncy idle seems to be getting better with time since I replaced the O2 sensor. Sometimes it doesn't bounce at all. Maybe the AACV is OK and the bouncy idle was due to the O2 sensor. And the underside of the car looks pretty dry right now. I get zero drips of oil on the driveway. So maybe the PCV isn't stuck after all. But the bottom line is, what damage can be done by a stuck PCV valve? |
Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
If the pressures in the crank case are high enough you could potentially start leaking from your cam, crank, valve cover and/or rear main seals.
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Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
I've had the same issue with the dipstick popping out and replaced the o-ring to get it to stop. I also planned to replace the PCV valve at the same time, but after 3 failed attempts I still haven't been able to get it out. :mad: I'm going to try once more with a different tool before I take the manifold off and do it the hard way. But yeah, the pressure has to go somewhere, it's best if it goes where it was designed to go. ;)
I've also had the same issue with the idle during start-up. I've never looked into because I usually forget about it by the time I get back home lol. |
Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
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All summer long I had the dipstick popping out, but as winter rolled in that has stopped and now I have vicious bouncy idle which kicks in right after I pull out of my garage. I have had PVC issues in the past, but there is something else causing the fouling of the valve. I know Harvey explained it to us once but damned if I can remember. |
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Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
My thought was that vibration was the reason that the dipstick moved out. With the o-ring being replaced, the dipstick may not be able to vibrate out, and pressure may not be increased at all. Just a thought. :)
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Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
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My son informed me today that he would like to modify cars. Looks like I may need to keep an eye out for a project. I probably should have jumped at that 1997 SVX in PA last week. |
Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
When your PCV valve is really bad, you piss oil out of all seals as well as popping up the dipstick and oil in all of the intake tubes... Oh, about 3 quarts get lost in a 200 mile drive with 4.44's and cruising at 75 mph...
Ask me how i know...;) |
Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
Replacing the PCV valve on both of my cars (I should say, having the PCV valves replaced by a nimble mechanic with small hands) instantly and completely cured dipstick pop-up. Old Subarus suck lots of oil and crank gases though the intake. That's not a problem unless you're losing quarts between changes or leaving a cloud of blue smoke in your wake. I'd change the PCV.
My silver SVX has always had an odd bouncy idle when warm, ONLY when rolling to a stop. This is most noticeable in stop-and-go traffic. Sitting still at idle, it's so smooth and quiet I glance at the gauges to be sure it's running. So long as she doesn't stall, I can live with it. dcb |
I checked again last night, I guess my idle is bouncy even before I leave the garage. Strange, though, it was rough all the way to the store, park for 40 minutes, then it's smooth and steady all the way back. :confused:
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I don't see blue smoke so I guess that is good. Would you expect a bad PCV to pop the dipstick even if the dipstick has a new o-ring? If I am getting oil pushed into the wrong places due to a PCV, wouldn't I see some in the end of the black air "snorkle" which is clamped to the intake manifold? |
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2) You may see some at the end of the snorkle, or it may just be in the intake manifold. Depends on the pressures your crank case is seeing. |
Re: A specific question about the old "dipstick popping out" issue
I used a right-angle ratcheting wrench to remove my PCV valve... one... click... at... a... time.
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