Swapped in the new engine, won't start
 

So if you'll remember I pulled out my built motor to part it out and picked up another stock motor from the junk yard. It's low milage, but rather old.. Had been on a self for decades from what I hear. Still looked pretty clean. I swapped over a few parts from my engine, the new oil and water pump, timing belt, pulleys etc and put in new spark plugs and oil. Got it in the car Saturday and plugged up... but so far it isn't trying to fire. The starter comes on just fine but nothing other than that.

First we checked fuel, appeared I was out of gas for some reason. Got some gas in it and the fuel lines right as far as I know but no change. The injectors are ancient, though if they are bad I don't know how to test them. I guess Ill check spark next time if you have any input on how would be best to do that. Everything looks to be plugged in other than a plug on top of the transmission (2005 WRX trans) and a plug im guessing that would go to the auto in the engine bay. No vacuum leaks that I can find.

Only other problem were having is we had to release the pressure to get the trans hooked up right and since then were having no luck getting the air out of the clutch line. Bled it for nearly an hour and it never got any better (I remember having a problem with this last time but it eventually just resolved). Don't know if this is related or not. The pedal is techically stuck to the floor so I didn't think that would interfere with it starting.

Re: Swapped in the new engine, won't start
 

air, fuel, spark....sounds like you're walking through things right.

Can you swap the fuel rails and injectors off your other engine?

Bill

Re: Swapped in the new engine, won't start
 

Ummm... O.K. I don't know Jack about SVXs'.. but I used to know a fair bit about stuff with carburetors, and point ignition.. The principles haven't changed, just the methodology of application.

1) Mechanical integrity.. That is, pistons compress, valves open and close at the right time, and properly seal. Screw in a compression gauge on at least three cylinders. If you're over 120 PSI, you've got enough compression, that if everything else is fine, it'd at least cough. It also means (IMHO) that even if you're off a tooth on the timing belt, there's still enough compression to get some kind of reaction from the engine.

2) Sufficient rotational speed. Even a car in fine tune won't start if it doesn't rotate fast enough. A good battery that's full is mandatory.

3) Spark. Pull a plug and coil pack and ground the plug to the block. Look for the blue / white arc across the electrodes. It should occur right when the engine goes "whoof" when it hits the cylinder you pulled the plug from, due to there being no resistance from compression. That's also about the time the plug should be getting spark.

4) Fuel pressure and quality. "some" fuel pressure... well it's just not enough.. it needs to be 30 PSI, at least, or it probably won't want to fire. And, just because it has pressure off the get go, doesn't mean that it's maintaining pressure after ten minutes. Also, how long ago did it last run? Once again, (IMHO) six months is all that gasoline remains viable for. After that, you may be trying to start your car with Var-sol. Crack open the fuel rail and see if what you're trying to start her with actually smells like gas. I couldn't tell you how many lawnmowers, snow blowers and cars that have sat I've "fixed" by draining the fuel system and putting in fresh gas. You put fresh gas in the tank, but that doesn't mean it's gotten to the injectors. You also said that you don't know why you were "out of gas for some reason". You can't trust the gauge, there's 20 litres (4 gallons) in the tank when it says empty. Look into that! Did you assume that you were out of gas because when you cranked her over you couldn't smell any? If you can wiggle an injector out into the open and pressurize it, check the spray pattern under rotation. It should be mist. It should smell like gas.

There's obviously way more to it than that, but if those four aspects are anywhere near right, it should at least cough / sputter / buck ... try!

As far as the 5MT thing goes.. with the clutch being stuck to the floor.. Is there a switch to prevent starting in that system? .. In my 02 WRX, I can get in and turn the key, and nothing happens until I put the clutch to the floor. Then, the starter engages. Could it be that your starter engages, but the system has no spark because the clutch isn't actually disengaged? Is the interlock based on pedal position or internal from the trans?

As far as bleeding the clutch is concerned, My only observation would be that there are three ways to do it, ..

1) Passive, pump the pedal, open and close the bleeder screw, repeat as necessary.

2) Vaccuum bleed.. fill reservoir, attach the vaccuum pump to the bleeder nut, pump up a vaccuum and crack the bleeder nut.

3) Pressure bleed. Attach a fitted cap to the reservoir and pressurize the system and then crack the bleeder valve open.

IMHO, #3 has the best chance for success.. look for the kit at summit racing. You can order it specific to the cap size of the reservoir. Just give it one quick shot and close the bleeder before the reservoir empties out and shoots air back in from the top. 20 PSI MAX

Once again, My skill set comes from a time long, long ago, in a galaxy far, far away. If you can adapt any of it to your situation... Cool!

If anybody who knows better says " No, do it this way".. It'd be in your best interests to believe them.. :o

Best of luck..

Chuck.

Re: Swapped in the new engine, won't start
 

I don't think you can swap them without removing the intake manifold, but I do have my old one I can swap over.