Fuel-related stalling issues?
 

Hi there! I think I've made the very difficult decision not to sell the car. After driving the wife's Audi for 2 weeks I broke down and drove the SVX to work again this week - I couldn't believe how much I missed driving this car. There just isn't anything for under $15K that could begin to replace it for me, so I'm going to throw a mountain of money at it if necessary to make it "perfect" over the next year.

--

I'm still having stalling issues with my car (when warm; it does fine the first time you drive it after it's been sitting a while). I've replaced the coolant temp sensors and cleaned the MAF and only use good gas.

I was wondering if anyone had a shop manual for this car I could buy, or knew where I could get one.

I was also wondering if someone could diagram the fuel system for me - I'm looking for the fuel pump(s), the fuel filter(s) and the fuel pressure regulators.

Oh, and after my wonderful Eastern Ohio trans swap, the car is now leaving trans fluid puddles in the garage...
...If you know the situation, you who to blame, and who to avoid doing business with. :mad:


Thanks for all your help!

why do you automatically jump to fuel stalling it? My brothers fuel pump went on his crappy nissan and once it did, there was not starting it. My mustang's transmisson is bad in it and when you shift into Reverse or Drive it would stall the engine. Not saying it is that, but you did say something about the transmisson leaving fluid. Not very qualified person here.

Did you replace the MAF with a known good one? Cleaning was a good step, but I'd want to test it by testing a known good one.

MAF seems to be a common stalling problem.

Most factors involving idling are controlled by the By Pass Air Control Valve and the Auxiliary Air Control Valve. Several flexible tubes are involved which deteriorate and can cause air leaks.

You will be wise to get hold of a set of manuals. They will save you a lot of money in the long run. Try the wanted to buy feature here, as a first option.

When my MAF failed on my Legacy, my car drove like utter crap. Eventually, it got so bad that the car would start and just shut right off again.

I mean people have problem when stopping it will stall but start back up right?

Well if it was a fuel pump it would also be hard to start, not only stall.. So like the others said you might wanna do the MAF as well ( replace known good with possible bad to rule out scenarios )

If that doesn't work what Trevor said sounds like another great option...

If you wanna check fuel ( if it will run for a while ) drive it with a fuel gauge in it coming out the hood ( in a safe place ) and watch the fuel pressure to see if it drops / fluctuates too much.

Ps: If its hard to start; cycle the key a few times (without starting it) to build up fuel pressure, it might be a weak pump thats on its way to dying

You will figure this out :cool:

Where are these located?


This is the stuff that scares me. Since the trans swap is recent, and the rest of the work was substandard, I have NO faith in how these would have been put back together.


Will do, THANKS!!

the Bypass Air Control Solenoid Valve is located on the bottom of the throttle body. The Auxiliary Air Control Valve is located under the drivers side of the intake manifold. All good info on these is found here:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...&highlight=iac


If you feel like taking the intake manifold off to check this stuff out, the how-to write up from ECUTUNE's Supercharger has some pics of the underside of the intake manifold. BTW, it's really not that much of an ordeal to take it off, at least not compared to other engines I've done:

http://www.ecutune.com/Supercharger-Instructions.pdf


This pic shows the vaccum lines better

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/...&size=big&cat=

Good Luck!

OK Call me a Moron but can someone once in a while spell out what you are talking about? I am new to this car and I am reading alot of these technical questions and answers to learn but I don't know what you are talking about when you abreviate such as "MAF". What is a MAF?? :o

the MAF is the mass air flow sensor, it is located right on top of your air filter box, where the intake tube connects to it. This device measures the amount of air passing into your intake. It does this by running a low voltage electrical current through an exposed wire inside the intake tube. As air passes over the wire, it cools it allowing a slightly higher voltage to pass through the wire. denser air will cool the wire more efficiently, so..... it counts for that as well. Based on the way the device works, you can see why any debris or film of oil/grease would destroy the accuracy of the sensor.

Good choice to keep your car.....Hmm bad choice to have it worked on in Ohio....I think I can guess who as well.

Sorry for your misfortunes and hope you get it running good again.

I am sorry you have had bad experiances, and hope you find out whats wrong with your car. I am sure someone here has had the same problem and can help.
I personally have had awesome experiances with Ohio mechanics. My teal wouldnt be on the road otherwise.

nature of the beast
 

i am no mechanic, believe me. i had a svx. eastern ohio gave it new life with a 4.44. a standup job. doesn't surprise me you're still having problems. that's the nature of the svx beast. one major issue is resolved, and another one pops up. makes you want to scream at the top of your lungs. actually made my son do that. that's why i finally caved and got rid of it. they are very cool, but they are very expensive and waiting for parts can be a nightmare. but i stand behind my eastern ohio guy. he is honest, hardworking, and knows that svx beast. best of luck with your svx. it's a neverending journey.