Could anyone help me find the pin out for the ecu so I can trace the wire to the MAF? I must have found 20 other wiring diagrams, but not what I am looking for. I don't think the search button likes me.:p

Have you checked voltages at the MAF end of the loom as per the figures I have given? Does not matter if you have to test and try to find the right pins, as a voltmeter across any of them can do no harm.

At the ECU end you are looking for a three wire shielded cable connected --- Terminal b4 Battery voltage to pin 1 on MAF.
Terminal b5 Signal voltage from pin 4 on MAF.
Terminal b6 Shield and ground from within ECU, to 2 on MAF.

I hope this will help, if not shout again. :)

I have a 'smart' test light that I bought just for use on ecu's and srs systems. I will use the info you just provided as it sounds like just what i was looking for.

Before I do that I need to make arrangements for this thursday.:D

What is the nature of this "smart" test light. It may not be wise to risk putting a low resistance, e.g. a simple incandescent lamp, across the signal line, i.e. MAF terminal 4, or ECU terminal b5.

Well I don't remember exactly as I bought it several years ago, but it is a led light that has some circuit board in it. It is a safe light in that it basically doesn't flow any current. I have 5 different test lights. They each serve a particular purpose. This one is made just for sensitive components / circuits.

The packaging and paperwork that came with it went into the trash can when I bought it off the Snappy truck (snap on).

O.K. Pleased you understand my caution, and I now well understand that you are up with the play. Go to it. :D

In the stock ECU, code 23 (MAF error) is generated when the ECU receives 2 or more consecutive readings that are less than 0.35% or greater than 99.88% of the maximum theoretical airflow. These limits correspond to about 0.098 volts and 4.756 volts respectively.

The relationship between the MAF voltage and the airflow can be seen on this graph:
http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/ecu/maf2.png

As Trevor said, it is directly proportional at the upper end of the scale.

If the ECU detects a MAF error it will try to guess the airflow from the TPS and RPM. If I unplug the MAF on my car it does run, but it runs like crap.

I pulled this information from my JDM ECU, but the USDM graph is only very slightly different. If your ROM has been modified your ROM to accomodate a different MAF then these settings may have been changed.

I'm not 100% sure about the conditions for code 14. My best estimate, from reading the ECU ROM is that the error code will be generated if either of the following conditions occur 50 times in succession.

(a) The ECU is telling the injector to open, but the injector reads as closed
(b) The ECU is telling the injector to close, but the injector reads as open

In other words, code 14 means that the ECU believes that the injector is stuck either open or closed.

Based on your earlier description of running very rich, and Phil's description of how the computer reads code 11, it may well indicate that injector #1 is stuck open all the time.

Maybe you have already checked this, most of what you describe is logical and thorough, but have you checked that all injectors are clicking?

Put a screwdriver tip on each injector and the handle to your ear, you will hear the clicking. If #1 is stuck open it should not click.

Joe

Yourconfused,

You seem to be indicating that your maf meter is not wired correctly. I'm going to guess that you just misread a code 23 as a code 14, counting one of the long blinks as a short.

I feel that you've been suckered, though not by me. I've repeatedly asked you to call me so we can have a conversation and I can help you sort things out. I feel that if you had done so we could have fixed your issue on day 1. It doesn't make sense that you would have purchased products from me expecting them not to work so I do suspect you have the best of intentions; however, I think the person who likes to take every opportunity to create doubt about me has been whispering in your ear creating suspicion that the stage 2 product is the source of your woes knowing full well it isn't. Your stage 2 software is identical to the stage 2 software everyone else has and is proven to work. There is no mechanism by which the software will work incorrectly. If the memory is corrupted or the memory adaptor is faulty the ecu simply won't work at all. You won't get a check engine light with the key on, you will hear relays clicking wildy and know to turn the key off, and the car wouldn't start at all. You probably don't even have anything broken. Even before knowing that you are getting wrong voltage readings at your maf meter the logical suspicions are that you 1) have a leaking injector 2) didn't cut reistor j1 in the ecu and are running on the stock software despite plugging in stage two 3) installed wiring to the switch input on the memory adaptor incorrectly and are running on the e85 software while filled up with gasoline 4)confused the wires when changing the maf meter plug to install the z32 maf meter 5)have the wrong or a defective maf meter All simple things we could easily figure out in a normal phone conversation. The person whispering in your ear knows this perfectly well but he also knows that playing like he does't will create a long thread that will make the next person who has problems have enough doubt to get suckered by him too. This person simply gets his jollys by harrassing people until they leave the forum just like he did with Harvey.

It's dissapointing to me that this person is so selfish as to drag you into weeks of wasted time and effort. I'm still here to help you if you ever choose to call me and if it was the stage 2 product I would gladly replace it. I would have and still will even replace it just so you can test and see if you ask me to. I have done so in the past when people have had any suspicion there was a defect. I have also done so when people just plain break pins off, etc. There is absolutely no reason to be off hunting trying to find proof of your stage 2 being broken. I'd happily replace it without proof.

Michael,

I have been posting a lot here in an effort to assist and It would appear from your comments that I am ---- “The person whispering in your ear knows this perfectly well but he also knows that playing like he doesn't will create a long thread that will make the next person who has problems have enough doubt to get suckered by him too.

My posts have in the main covered factors which do not involve your product. In fact I have exactly pointed out that it is unlikely to be directly involved, as per the following extracts copied from my posts:-

“I gather you are suggesting that the ECU might be sending an incorrect code. Plausible, but probably unlikely. By way of a test in this regard, you could disconnect another injector to see if this correctly results in the return of an appropriate second code.”

“It would appear that you have localised a fault which will surely be causing multiple problems. However it is difficult to assume that this could be caused by the ecutune 2V7F, as only constant supply is involved.”

I can understand your concern that your product could be denigrated, particularly as a result of the thread heading. However the various posts all tend to point towards alternative options and in fact do not agree with the opening statement or heading.

Your closing statement --- “There is absolutely no reason to be off hunting trying to find proof of your stage 2 being broken.” is very much at odds with the overall content of the thread. Please read the thread through again and you may find that you have become overly concerned. ;)

This is the first issue to check. If the MAF has no constant voltage energising the heating element, the output signal will be all to hell. :p

I've been following this thread from the start, and I'm in general agreement with what Trevor has just said; most of the people offering advice and suggestions are looking to fix the problem, nobody is making any assumption that the software is bad or at fault till all else is checked.

I think you are on a wrong track here Michael and no need to get all fussed up.:rolleyes:

Michael's offer of help is genuine and the offer of a new unit is magnanimous. If Shaun is willing I would like to make the following suggestion:

As moderator I can go in and take off the question reference to the S2V7 software in the thread heading. To my eyes that is only fair after Mike's offer to help, which I believe is genuine.

Shaun??

Joe:)

Im just going to butt in here real fast.

I just read the whole thread, and there is no "Whispering in ears" going on here. Only true helpful troubleshooting advice while trying to get to the bottom of the issue.

So with that, lets keep this thread on track.:tongue:

Thanks guys!:D


FAKE EDIT: Joe wins at the interweb.

Cool!! :eek: What do I win!? What do I win!!!

:p