Code 14 can result from and mean that the circuit operating the indicated injector is faulty, e.g. partially or fully open, or short circuited.

However you report --- "I also checked injector signal on 1 and 3 and they both looked the same," which appears to rule out this possibility. :confused:

I gather you are suggesting that the ECU might be sending an incorrect code. Plausible, but probably unlikely. By way of a test in this regard, you could disconnect another injector to see if this correctly results in the return of an appropriate second code.

The plot is thick. :eek:

I'm going out to see a friend play tonight so I won't be tinkering w/ the car much until tomorrow.

svxfiles: I pulled the fuel rails w/ the intake and pulled the injectors on my bench.

Trevor: "I gather you are suggesting that the ECU might be sending an incorrect code. Plausible, but probably unlikely. By way of a test in this regard, you could disconnect another injector to see if this correctly results in the return of an appropriate second code." I should have done that already! Doheth.

how did you check the pattern on the injectors? with a oscilloscope? what did the pattern look like on both these injectors?

So the plot thickens.

I am now getting codes 11, and 14-19.
crank angle sensor and all injectors? :confused:

I guess I will try looking at the crank sensor now. It's just weird that all this happens after doing the ecutune chip.
The code 23 and 24 I had were due to me not wiring the MAF correctly. :rolleyes: This was something I realized I did wrong but forgot about before starting the car.

The car is running like I have all the plug wires in the wrong places, like on a car with a distributor.
I will be back in a bit with a list of measurements...

Tests for the codes of 14-19

Here are the readings for all the injectors and from the harness of injectors 1,3,4,6. (4 of 6 are the same, why test all 6?)

I consider readings of +- 0.02 volts to be the same and +- 0.01 ohms the same also. Current batt voltage 12.16V (a little low, door was left open last night. oops.)

Old injectors read 11.5 - 12.1 ohms
New injectors are 11.8 - 12.01 ohms

Removing injector clips to get voltage readings:
1,3,4,6 all have the same readings and are as follow:

The rearward (firewall side) wire is a grey w/ red stripe, the other (forward) wires are grey w/ other colored stripes.

G/R key off: is a ground w/ 12.15V
G/R key on: is a + w/ 12.01V

grey/other key off: is a ground w/ 10.55V
grey/other key on: is a ground w/ 10.0V

voltage between 2 wires key off: 0V
voltage between 2 wires key on: 9.89V

What's next?

Important note:
 

I previously had only code 14 for injector #1 and was running SUPER rich.

I realized that I had the wires backwards as I just flipped the injector plug upside down to fit on the sr25det injectors.
Being that these are just solenoids I had them working the reverse duty cycle of what the computer wanted them to do. IE: they were open when the ECU thought they were closed.

I used a little tool to slip the wires out of the harness connectors to reverse the wires.
By reverse I mean put them back where they are suppose to be. :rolleyes: That left me with codes 14 15 16 17 18 19, but not running rich.

Hope that makes since.

p.s. I'm not even bringing up the issue I am having w/ the NEW ECUTUNE trans. yet. That is for another thread when this is resolved.

Okay, so the super rich state was due to the injectors not being wired correctly, but that's fixed now that you've swapped the wires going to each injector, right? Crank angle sensor is rearing its head, which could easily just be a coincidence.
Given everything that has gone on so far, how about disconnecting the battery overnight and letting the ECU have some time to recollect its senses?:lol:
Sounds like you're taking all the right steps, you may just have to let the engine/ECU recover from the mis-wiring issue (oh, and maybe throw a new crank angle sensor in while you're at it;)
-Bill

I closed the garage door and unplugged the batt. I'll let it sleep until tomorrow night.
Which one is the crank sensor? In the front middle of the block there are 2 sensors and I know one of them is the crank. I'll look for pics as I have seen a pic of which is which somewhere... my memory leaves a bit to be desired.


edit:
$175 for a crank sensor!!! I can't afford that damn.

Please note that a crank sensor code can be caused by a bad two wire water temp sensor.;)
And they are $40.00 or less.

crank senor #1 is used to determain which injector to fire so if you figure out that code then all the injector codes should be fixed as well the reason you car it running like that is the only sensor left is crank angle sensor 2 which can group fire the injectors only at this point i assume you have a oscilloscope so heres the all data test its pretty easy:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...r/42351650.gif


Remove crank angle sensor 1.
Set the positive (+) probe at sensor connector terminal No. 1, and set earth lead at terminal No. 2.
Check a wave profile appears crossing a magnet near the pick-up coil of crank angle sensor 1.

:confused::confused::confused:

If a scope is not available, as per above mentioned fig 57 from the manuals, a multi meter set to a low voltage AC range should suffice and register some tenths of a volt, at each pass of the magnet. ;)

Has Mike sent you a new set of software?? SVXBart had an injector code on his car with his stage 1 a while back. did all the troubleshooting I could. Even plugged in a stock ECU to find that it was secluded to the ECU and Mike sent him a new chip... no code since... Worth a shot

Tom

Thanks for the input everyone. :)
I had a little distraction :banana: last night that left me a little tipsy. :D I was in a good mood when I got home and didn't want to face the SVX problems.
I also won't have scope access until thursday. I am trying to buy one, but I should at least be able to borrow one then to do proper testing.

Now out to the garage to see if the SVX will wake up in a good mood.

Sorry.
:o
Please note that a crank sensor code (or a cam sensor code) can be caused by a bad two wire water temp sensor.