No send the crank out to be ground/polished and ballanced while the machine shop is honing the block.

Thats what I figured but I wanted to be sure... Leaving here in a few minutes to get that done

Tom

Build Details.
 

So you are having the crank bearing lands honed even and I'm assuming the cylinders honed as well. Are you doing, or have you done, anything else to the block? Cold tanking? What are you using to seal the two halves together? I know that there is some Fugi Heavy Industries engine sealant that is recommended, but I'm wondering if that is overkill. For my WRX oil pump I just used some High Temp RTV, which the subaru guys use when the car is out of warranty. I don't know if this is the same stuff though.

There shouldn't be any need to machine the block where the bearings go. I've never heard of one case of main bearings going bad on these engines.

I used ultra-black. Normal/high temp rtv isn't very good and I wouldn't use it but ultrablack bonds well. You can get 3 bond from the dealer though if you want.

Yeah, neither my rod bearings or main bearings suffered any unusual wear for the 150k it was in service and on 12psi:cool: So I will not be using oversized bearings. I am also going to be using ultrablack so seal it all up.

The block is at the machine shop now with my pistons... I am calling on Fri to see if he finished yet. If he did, I will be waiting on the crank balance

tom

I'd still measure both your journals and crank pins so you can estimate what your oil clearances will be with standard bearings. The more power you run the more important it will be to have big enough oil clearances. Since you haven't had any bearing failures under boost you probably lucked out and all of your oil clearances are towards the big side of the factory standard range but you don't want to wait till assembly time to verify that.

I found something interesting out for people who are going to rebuild stock rotating assemblies. ACL's line of race bearings for the subies includes an almost standard bearing to increase your oil clearnace by a thousandth. Apparantly they have caught on to the oil clearance problem on these engines too. It's a sintered tri-metal bearing. If I was going to assemble an engine with a stock rotating assembly I'd consider that bearing after measuring my crank pins and determining my oil clearances are not on the high side of the standard range. They will let you increase your oil clearances without any crank work. I'd use them on crank pins with tight oil clearances and standards on the crank pins with larger oil clearnaces The part # for the bearings with 1 thousandth increase in oil clearance is 5M8297HX. The part # for the same bearing with standard oil clearance is 5m8297H.

Those of us who are making changes to our rotating assemblies, ie pistons or rods) need to get our cranks ballanced anyway so we are better off getting the journals and crankpins ground to exactly what we want. I have high silicon aluminum rod bearings on the way for standard, .25, & .50

Ok... The block is still at the machine shop but I just got off the phone with him... I should be able to pick it up late monday early tues.... Things are comming together quite nicely.

Tom

LAN how do you remove the 3 and 5 pistons from the block on our engines? i recently disassembled a EJ22 block and was wondering how this is done on our 6 cyl engines

The same way. You use the 6 cyllinder version of the circlip pliers to remove the cirlips and the 6 cyllinder version of the piston pin puller to remove the piston pin.

Ok, I haven't put them on the website yet but I do officially have the high silicon rod bearings in stock now in standard, 0.25mm, & 0.50mm. $100 a set sound good? That's less than 1/3 the price of the dealer part for a lot better part but still lets me make a little bit of money for the hassle and expense of finding and stocking these things.

I also have rings to re-ring the stock pistons for you stock guys who have the sense to rebuild your engines before they blow instead of after. They are hastings rings with a chrome top ring. 97mm bore so you can hone your cyllinders safely and you probably won't even have to file any ring gaps. $150

The block is done and awaiting my pick-up. I will try and get there tomorrow... good news is that all 6 cylinders are honed to 97mm and the decks didn't need any milling. So my bottom end will be getting put together as soon as I can pick up an engine seal kit so I can use all new seals in the block...

Tom

Wow.. I cannot believe how tight those bearing clearances are stock.

I have a couple questions for you guys.
First does subaru use any process at the factory to harden their cranks at all?

Also, does your machinist that cuts the crank down re-radius the journals? If he does, than that's a great price, and definitely worth it. if not, I'd probably take my part elsewhere.

Has anyone thought to try O-ringing the head instead of trying to get custom headgaskets done? A simple o-ring job typically will cost about 150$, and then you can run the stock, or stock equiv headgasket without any worries. Might be an option to look into at least. You can choose whether you oring the block or the head as well.

O-ringing
 

I have thought of O-ringing. It would probably work well. I might consider it if I felt confident in the shop that was doing it and it was for the right price. I also think if it was done with a groove in the head and in the block, that it would do the same thing as closing the deck, as far as stabilizing the top of the cylinder.

Bearings
 

Are you using these on your built engines? If you are I may give them a try.

You got your crank ballanced allready? What did they calculate the bob weight at?