Flexplate Install
 

Hey everyone I got a 92 LSl with 178k. I got my car from a dealer in WA with a new tranny at 120k for 5,900 in 2001. Anyway After doing some muffler work, i believe my flexplate is bad. It makes clunk sounds while idling and under hard acceleration it sounds not that good, but when i let off the gas it makes a horrible rice rocket sound. We looked under the car at the Torque Converter while it revved to 4k and it was moving like it was lose.

First Question: Correct Diagnoses?
ANSWERED: Yes! sorry no pics, but it was a donut flexplate.

Also I've read this thread for the torque spec (post #2)
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13682
51 to 55 ft lbs. for the 8 bolts that hold the flexplate

I've also read this thread and i've decided to drop the tranny to get to the flexplate
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20953

Also been looking at some pictures here of the flexplate/TC
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/use...svxfiles|27762
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?CDG|8258
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10164

More Info for Flexplate
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21644


Second Question: What needs to be done in order to drop the tranny?
ANSWERED: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5472
OR Post #4

Third Question: What are the torque specs for all the bolts i need to undo in order to drop the tranny? (so i put it together correctly)
Answers:
3 bolts on lower A-arm (56-73 ft lbs)
8 bolts that hold the flexplate (51-55 ft lbs)
4 bolts that hold flexplate to torque converter (17-20 ft lbs) thanks intelisevil


Fourth Question: Should i use thread lock goo for the 8 flexplate bolts?
ANSWERED: Use it! (thanks Suby Fan)


While im under the car i plan on doing the Internal Transmission Filter Change
http://www.svx-iw.com/svxiw/article/?article=147

My PCV valve needs to be changed (dip stick popups)
http://www.svx-iw.com/svxiw/article/?article=139

And my timing belt is about due
http://www.ryanmacdonald.com/car/howto/belt/belt.html

Any Help would be appreciated. Also are there any recommendations on what else i should do, that would be great.
-Mike

PS is there a guide out there for doing the flexplate?

it looks like you have every thing covered... the only thing i personaly recomned is locktighting the bolts on the flex plate or the will come loose again (like they did when the tranny was replaced the first time) you should be able to find a write up on how to pull the tranny its pretty straight forward

If you get under the car while the engine is running (trans is park:rolleyes: ) and it sounds like someone is beating on the back of the engine with a hammer, then your flexplate is cracked. The sound will actually be worse at idle.
-Bill (owner of a "donut" flexplate currently hanging in the "broken parts hall of fame":eek: )

The Directions for dropping the tranny are a little off so I thought I would help them out... here is what I would have done if I where to do it again.

Automatic Transmission Removal:

1. Position vehicle on hoist. Do not lift.
2. Open Hood.
3. Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove throttle body cover (plastic thing).
4. Remove air intake pipe. Remove bolt for upper tranny mount (black dog bone thing).
5. Remove pitching stopper and bracket. Disconnect transmission air vent hoses from bracket.
6. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:

a. Transmission harness.
b. Oxygen sensors.
c. Vehicle speed sensor 2.
d. Transmission ground.

7. Disconnect PCV hose, then blow-by hose from crankcase to collector.

a. Disconnect Heater pipes on both sides.

8. Raise and support vehicle.
9. Remove Starter:

a. Remove lower starter mounting bolts.
b. Disconnect power supply terminal and magnet coil connector for starter.
c. Remove upper starter mounting bolts, then the starter.

10. Remove torque converter cover hole plug (mine wasn't there), then remove torque converter to drive plate attaching bolts (use a 22mm or 7/8" socket on the front of the engine crank to prevent torque converter from moving). Separate torque converter from drive plate.

a. If you don't have room then remove the 6 bolts holding the throttle body, and then the throttle body.

11. Install engine support fixture No. 927670000 or equivalent (rope through dog bone to both sides of the air intake manifold, AND jack supporting oil pan), then remove upper right side transmission to engine bolts.
12. Remove fluid level gauge from transmission and front differential

a. Drain Tranny fluid

13. Remove under cover, then oxygen sensor harness from clip.
14. Remove exhaust:

a. Spray all bolts that need to be removed with a penetrating lubricant.
b. Remove 2 bolts on either side in-between front catalyst converter and header pipe.
c. Remove supporting bolts for exhaust all the way to the rear including the 2 for the muffler.
d. Drop exhaust and use screwdrivers to remove rubber supports.

15. Remove propeller shaft to companion flange attaching bolts, then the center bearing to body bolts. Remove propeller shaft from transmission. (Drive shaft)
16. Remove selector cable from selector lever assembly, then the selector cable bracket from body.
17. Remove performance rod (lower sway bar).
18. Remove front axle from transmission as follows:

a. Remove three bolts at the end of the lower A-arm; take the inner one out last. (Might have to use jack to compress spring)
b. Remove spring pin holding axle shaft into front differential drive shaft (the pin in the CV joint right next to the dif). Make sure to use a bolt and not something that has a point like a nail or screw, it will come out a lot faster. Also they are asymmetric, if its not moving rotate 180 and try from the other side.
c. Remove axle shaft from transmission.

19. Disconnect transmission hoses from side of transmission, then remove lower side transmission to engine attaching bolts.
20. Place transmission jack under transmission, then remove rear cross member to body bolts. (3 on each side, not the center ones)
21. Remove transmission from vehicle (more people=better). Move transmission and torque converter as a unit away from engine. If it's not coming off use the jack on the oil pan and slowly lift the engine a little bit... be careful.
22. Reverse procedure to install.

To get the flexplate off I used 2 breaker bars, one for the 8 bolts (14mm) and one for the crank bolt (22mm or 7/8"). Use the crank breaker bar to torque it off and have the person under the car hold the socket on the bolt.

Good Luck! You will need it.

Subscribed!
 

This is one of the best compiled threads I have seen and you've only made two posts! :eek:

Welcome to the family! :D

Dan

NEED: torque specs for the 4 bolts that hold the flexplate to the torque converter.

I whip out my trusty shop manual I just received from ruffyone and it says:

17-20 ft lbs

That took some digging. I immediately found the torque specs for the eight bolts that fasten the flexplate (drive plate) to the crankshaft . . . then I reread your question. :o

Good Luck,
Dan