More SVX problems - tranny resistor and LSD/ABS related
 

I have yet more problems with my SVX.

#1) Very weird stuff when turning at low speeds. This may sound like a steering pump o-ring issue, but there's something going on in the back end that leads me to think elsewise. When turning in a circle slowly at low speeds, the car feels like it is getting hung up on something. If you take your foot off the gas the car will come to a stop. It does the same when backing up. At idle in drive the car feels like something is pulsatiing when going in a straight line. If you were to back up with the wheel locked to one side, stop, and pull forward with the wheel on the other lock...the rear wheel that is on the inside of the forward turn skips like it is locking up. Now I know my ABS computer is giving a light for an ABS sensor, but would it cause this reaction (I unplugged my ABS solenoid fuse and that didn't help)? Is my rear LSD going bad?

#2) Tranny resistor is non existent when plugged in. I had the Smallcar Auto Shiftkit in for a few days to try it out, then took it out and plugged the wire back together like OEM so just the OEM resistor was in place. It feels like it's not even there anymore. The POWER light blinks 16 times like it's not there. And the car will rev to 3000 in first gear before it shifts to second. Is my stock resistor toast?

In addition to #1, I did a search and indeed it sounds exactly like clutch binding. I looked at the serial # of the rebuild transmission and the number is 323767 - which does not look good in my favor. I'm going to do the self test tonight on the tranny to see if it's solenoid C. I'm going to try that LSD additive first. Should I drain some ATF before adding the additive?

#1 is definately binding. The additive should help. You don't add much so you don't have to drain.

#2 - measure the resistance in that resistor. It's normally 10-12 ohms but anywhere between 7 and 20 is acceptable.

Thanks a bunch Earthworm. I'll do the additive tonight, and possibly test the resistor if I can find the equipment to do so.

I bought the Kendall Limited Slip Gear additive and poured it into the transmission. I did a ton of figure 8's in both forward and reverse, and nothing changed :( When turning right, the right rear didn't seem to skip, but the car still slowed to a stop by itself. When turning left, the left rear wheel still skipped continuously. I noticed the transmission seems like it it hunting between gears when you're off the throttle, even at 30mph. Maybe it's the torque converter locking and unlocking, I can't really be sure. Out of the box it seems to shift normal from 1st to 2nd, but that could just be the resistor coming back to life, I just don't know. Any ideas?

On a sidenote - this started happening after I did the tranny fluid power flush and fill with Mobil 1, and the Permacool ATF filter in series with the ATF flow path. Maybe there is a clog somewhere? How can I check?

Are your brakes binding maybe? A stiff LSD and transfer clutch will provide some resistance when turning, but I wouldn't think there'd be very much. What really makes me think it might be a sticking brake is that you describe a "pulsating" when driving straight ahead. Does it do this if you put the gear selector in first? If so, then it's not your transmission.

Jack the wheels off the ground and see if anything seems odd. Check to see if the front wheels turn when you turn the rear ones. For some reason, my car "hunts" when it's in third gear, but I think it's the overrunning clutch cycling to soften the 3-2 shift which never happens because when the clutch engages, the RPMs climb and it decides not to downshift after all. (Just a strange TCU bug that goes away if I leave it in drive.) The torque converter will not lock up in any gear except fourth.

Well, it does need an ABS sensor as described in the first post - but would the ABS computer really be causing the mischief? It happens without applying any brake. When I feel the pulsating, I can see the tach going up and down ever so slightly, maybe 250rpm between.

Put in the FWD fuse to see if the binding goes away.

I think the ABS problem is symptomatic of another problem. Dragging brakes is a common problem and would explain your symptoms. The bad sensor may be from an error generated due to one wheel behaving badly, (although I tend to doubt it.) It may also be totally unrelated.

Alright here's what the survey says. When I put the FWD fuse in place, the binding is completely gone and that weird pulsating at low speeds is gone as well.

I couldn't understand how to get the trouble codes from the transmission. I have directions but they make no sense because they say go from park to D with the ignition off.

I checked the fluid level in the rear diff, that's fine, but that doesn't matter now I'm assuming.

So what do my results add up to? Solenoid C?

The key should be turned on so that all the warning lights on the dashboard are lit up, but the engine should not be running. Yes, solenoid C could be the culprit, but somehow I doubt it. Are your front and rear tires the same size and worn equally?

Yes, the front and rear tires are the same make, size and are all worn equally. What usually happens when the TCU is malfunctioning?

I have no idea. TCUs don't "usually" malfunction. I've heard of it happening to someone before, but I don't recall what the symptoms were. Many of us have had strange AWD-related problems and I don't think any were related directly to the TCU. I think every single one was attributed to some other part.

You still need to pull the codes from the TCU. I'd also check into that ABS sensor. The TCU gets information from several sources to determine how it should behave. I know it gets information from the ECU, and I'm pretty sure the ABS is tied in with all that somehow. ...and since you should probably fix that anyway, you might as well eliminate that possibility.

If the problem consistently goes away with the FWD fuse installed, and immediately returns with it removed, then the problem is clearly related to the AWD system. I don't know why you'd get any pulsating effects from the AWD unless the car is turning.

You can check the wiring harness between the TCU and the transmission, but that's just a shot in the dark. If you're lucky, that'll be the problem and you can fix it. If you're not lucky, you still should consider fixing the ABS sensor and pulling the TCU codes. I wouldn't tear my hair out with this problem until the ABS problem is fixed and you have an all-clear from the TCU. You'll need an ohm-meter and volt-meter to test the harness properly.

Another thing you will probably notice is that when you come to a stop, after maybe 10 seconds or so you will probably feel a little kick which is the transfer clutches releasing indicating a sticky solenoid.

Can anyone post or link me to an accurate method to retrieve the TCU codes please?

Go to http://svx-iw.com/ and click "Codes"

If there's something wrong with the instructions let me know and I'll update it.