Braking problem solved
 

A few months ago I started a thread about braking and a very strong surge that resulted after the brakes got hot. Since that time I have found the cause of the problem and I wish to share it with all of you.:) It is caused by my technique of braking. I was touching the brakes lightly, off and on for several miles and after that the car would start jerking as the brakes were applied. For the records my brake rotors are worn down below the minimum and the pads are still good at 25% left and the rotors are not warped.

I have found that this problem will not occur if I use higher braking pressure.:) It has to be high enough to make stuff fall of the back seat. You see I always have stuff in the car cause I spend a lot of time in the car. Normally I brake so that stuff doesn't go flying off the seat. Hence the technique I was using is don't make stuff fly off the seats. Now by applyng a higher braking force the shudder in the car does not occur and all my stuff ends up on the floor.:D It's a small trade off.

30 April, 2003 Edit> This problemwas found to be caused by sticking front caliphers. Sticking because they rusted after the boots ripped.

Fast and Furious braking, eh John!
 

I can't imagine you screaming up to a stop and slamming the binders on! I can however imagine you trying to explain your braking techniques to the kindly officer:D

Todd

Given this technique works, then have you checked the sway bar bushings and other suspension bits. It may be that they have enough slop to be loading/unloading during lighter braking.

Yes John,. I'll go along with Lee on this. Something is allowing the caliper to rotate with the disk, till it stops moving and the disk is then held.

Or you could just put everything on the floor:D

Harvey.;)

your technique
 

I've always wondered what crazy logic caused people to drive along on/off/on/off with their brakes when they weren't stopping..

Now that I've heard this, I'm amazed

No wonder your rotors are worn out too.

I also have developed a solution to the cause of your braking conundrum!!! Empty your car from time to time and don't leave any stuff on the leather seats (if you have them) because it will ALWAYS be sliding off onto the floor.

Stick your briefcase in the trunk and get a nice case for your CDs and have a great drive

Enjoy

Hotshoe

I am sure all the bushings are tight. I have put in new ones in on torsion bar and I am sure it is a heat related problem. It does not happen until the rotors heat up. The light braking has no effect when the rotors are cold. The surface of the disks looks just fine. No deep grooves or the like. They are not worn out. They are worn down below the minimum. This happen when you get new pads put on and the rotors turned to the minimum. After about 30K miles the rotor is below the minimum. Get it? I think it is from the thinner rotors and heat build up.

Whole lot of friction goin' on
 

I brake the same Commuter, because I like to think I drive smoothly, and hence well.

Every time I come to a stop, the wheels are pretty hot, noticably drying off in the rain. We have that here a lot.

I find in slow commuter traffic [no pun intended] it is easier to drive in 3. There is little or no engine braking in D/4, but in 3 when I ease off the car slows. This may help reduce the amount of gentle braking and rotor heat build-up, and is better for the tranny, it does not use the torque convertor so much.

Try it for speeds below 60 or so.

Joe:)