Need quick transmission pan help!
 

Hey there!

Replacing my trans filter and pan gasket.

What is the proper procedure and pan torque specs to re-install the pan and gasket? Do the pan bolts need to be installed like wheel lugs; in a criss-cross motion?
While we're at it, what is the proper way to clear the trans cooler lines running to the radiator?

Thanks in advance!

Torque them 1/2 way, then torque all the way to spec. I've never done a total cross pattern but have just done enough initially to hold it up. Definately don't gunk it up with sealant if you can help it. It'll run into the fluid and get clogged in stuff.

Sealant? Sorry, I'm not a mechanic by any stretch...I've got the gasket for it, do I need sealant as well?

Thanks!

No sealant unless you have to. Don't be suprised if you end up putting it on a couple times before you get it to not be leaking.

Ok, cool.

Before I start this, here's what my car is doing.

* Difficult to get into Reverse when hot
* Whines (relative to vehicle speed and only when under load) at hwy speeds
* Speedometer jumps all over, seems to be correct only when under load

There is no "AT temp" light and the dipstick actually reads WAY over full now...Used to leak a little, now doesn't leak a drop. The fluid on the dipstick doesn't smell bad and is bright pink.

What the hell is going on?!

The AT light on a Subie tranny only comes on at like 280 degrees. You've long cooked your tranny prior to then!

Having a tranny overfilled is VERY BAD for the operation of the tranny so that might be causing some of your issues.

I know overfilling them is bad, but it was leaking for a while, and now it reads higher than it did before it was leaking.

Would a clog somewhere cause it to read higher on the stick than what was actually put in it?

I could try draining some first, but I can't imagine how it could be overfilled...

I would doubt you have a clog and are still moving.

You need to check it after driving at least 30 minutes, shift through all the shifter locations then back to park and check it with the car running. That could change some stuff for ya.

Didn't the autos in these get clogs in the cooler lines, causing them to overheat?

I'll try checking it hot after going through all the gears...

Thanks!

Some did but you wouldn't be moving if it clogged like that and it wouldn't explain added fluid. Not checking your fluid properly is probably why your showing a high level low and to my knowledge this is the way virtually all autos have been tested since the dawn of time. I'm guessing your torque converter just drained down while it has been sitting???