starting problem
 

When the engine is cold, I have to go WOT in order for the car to start. If I don't floor the pedal, I have to crank it off and on for a good 15 minutes. It throws a check engine light, but doesn't give any codes other than the usual code 12 or whatever it is that tells you it's in diagnostic mode. When the car is warm it has no problems. I'm not sure if this car has a secondary fuel pump, but that is about the only thing I can think of as failing. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Chris

I'm not sure since I've never had this happen to me, but I remember other posts that going to WOT sets the engine in the "fix it, it's flooded" routine. It shuts off gas and just lets air flow. A possible cause could be a fuel injector leaking after you shut down.

Check coolant temp sensor, the thing that sets the throttle plate position. Mine needs replaced have to hammer gas to get it to start.

I have this behavour too, but only in "middle" tempratures...that is, when it's not really cold and not really warm....but around -5 to +5 cels.


/Sonny :cool:

i ahve the problem when i ran my car, let it set for like, oh 2 hrs or so, just enough to let the engine cool. go and try it again and it acts like flooding, and i get a puff of smoke out the exhaust, but i really think its the coolant thing, but thats just my guess...i think pulsing the pedal is what causes my cloud....

Re: starting problem
 

Chris, I would bet on a bad coolant temp sensor. They're about $25 from the dealer and take all of 5 minutes to replace.

Auxiliary cold start air valve.
 

There is an Air valve under the LHS of the inlet manifold that supplys the extra air to allow the cold start. This valve should be open, by a bi-metal spring, when the engine is cold. Its electrically heated to turn off, after about 40 seconds. You can see the 3/4" hose that supplys it, running from the LHS of the air box. If you remove this hose when it is cold, you should be able to blow through it, to see if it is open.

Harvey. ;)