Engine, Electrical Problems
 

Hi all, I'm 17, and my dad is helping with this project. I'm new to this forum, We have a 92 Svx. We recently had to fix the camshaft becuase the slot for the pully was damaged, (Picture . We got this machined and I put it in yesterday, IT RUNS! First time we ever heard it.

The problem is
1. The car would idle fine (like on all cylinders), and then it would idle down, and barely ran (like it wasnt on all cylinders). But when it ran bad, the check engine light came on, about 5 seconds later, it dissapeared and ran fine. What could be the problem? I'm going to check the spark plugs and ignition coils (how do I check resistance?)

Thanks

Before you do anything else you can check the engine code that was produced to give you an idea of what's wrong.

Instructions for checking codes can be found in the SVXipedia on http://svx-iw.com/

what a day
 

Ok, I replaced the plugs and air filter anyway. I checked the code, 24, bypass air control valve. So I take off the TB, take off the air control valve, clean it, put it on still runs the same as before but check engine isnt coming on, I have recorded how it runs. Here is an explanation of what is happening in this Sound clip I recorded

Engine starts
Idles low and rough
Rev to 3000, let off gas
Idles automatically at 2000 for about 3-4 seconds
Idles rough at about 500, almost stoping
Rev to 3000 again
Idles at 2000
Goes down to below 500 where I just stoped it manually.

Sometimes it barely runs that all the dash lights come on like before you start the car. When it is struggling to run there is a ticking noise, it sounds like it might be the control valve, but it sounds like a valve or lifter. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks

Slawek

Time to remove the throttle body and clean it and the idle air control motor.

Is the throttle body just the part with the valves(that let air in, 6 screws)? Becuase I had it off, and cleaned it, along with the air control valve, I left that magnetic motor alone. Maybe I have to replace that magnetic motor, you tell me, lol. :) Did you listen to the audio clip?

Thanks

Sorry, I missed that. There is another idle valve, separate from the t-body, that idles up the engine when cold. Look under the left side of the intake (left & right are always from the driver's seat.) Once warmed up does the engine idle o.k.?

We never really had it warmed up, i'm going to search for the "other" idle control valve and clean it, hopfully this is the culprit. Thanks

Is this it?
 

Is this it? It better be. It was a pain to take it out, lol. Can I buy a new one, will it help?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCF0037.jpg

Well, I replaced the air control valve with another one we had. And no luck, it idle's fine at about 1100 rpm, but under 1000, it get rough, and sometimes when its idleing low and rough, you can hear a loud tick, like five in a row, and then the idle goes up. After about maybe 20 times it idled up and down, the engine just died (its a hot day today) Maybe its something else with the engine.

Slawek

Are you sure you don't have any air leaks? Check everything from the MAF to the throttle body. Unmetered air can cause issues. There are a lot of tubes before the t-body and are easy to miss when putting back together, plus the large snorkle tube itself can split, especially in the convolutions.

Looks like the tubes are fine. Whats the MAF? I was gone for a week, so I'm back to working on this thing, 3 weeks till school, lol. Ok, today I checked the resistance of the fuel injectors and they were all good. Then I checked the voltage and resistance of the coils and they were fine. I was looking at the spare wiring harness we have, and I noticed the the thing below in the pic, could this cause the things that are happening?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCF0091.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCF0090.jpg

Nobody wants to help me? :(
 

Ok, today I did a few more things, First I drained the tank (didn't know what type of fuel was in there), and it was coming out ORANGE!, why, I don't know. We put premium in, (ahhh).

I was checking the bypass ACV by leaving the ignition on for a while, but I could still blow through the hose after a half hour.

The problem persists, Idles fine around 800, and then the computer lowers it to about ~~500, and it runs real rough. We took it for a drive and after a while the O2 sensor showed a check engine, we took it out, looks fine, and resistance is fine. But could the O2 sensor cause rough idleing?

More problems: When its idling rough and ~~500, we disconected the front RH side fuel injector cable, no diff in engine, in cable is 13.5, resistance is good. We tried with a diff one, still no difference in engine when unplugging. But when we unplug a diff one engine dies, #3 LH side fuel injector had same symptom as front RH #1. We changed the ignition coil, no diff, spark plug is new, fuel is pumping, and there is compression. Whats wrong.

Sorry for such a long explanation, I hope its understandable. Please help, I'm running out of idea's. Thank you. :)

you and i have the exact same problem. Im eagerly waiting to hear what everyone has to say b/c i've had this problem for quite some time now minus the bad gas...

I don't know if the EG33 has an EGR valve and its respective hardware... but it could be a possible culprit. If we have one that is...

Unfortunatly, I have no suggestions for the rough idle, but from your sound clip, it sounds like one of your idler pulley bearings are failing. I just had the AC idler fail on mine, so I remember what it sounded like for the last several months.

Doug