Engine Removal
 

Hey everyone,
well "gotsubarus" is on the way down here to florida with a engine for me to put in my car. I was just wondering if anyone who has experience with pulling the engine in the svx could possibly chime in here and tell me anything they know, and any tricky spots that might pop up along the way. I never pulled an engine before but i think between my friend and i and the service manuals, as well you all I should be able to do it. So if any of you have any tips or tricks please help me out. So far the only things i could find on here are: 1)Move hood struts back so hood stand almost vertical
2)remove the charcoal cannister
3)Possibly remove the throttle body so it doesnt get damaged by the chains...Is this a smart step to take or is it just an extra step???
4)SPray exhaust bolts with penetrating lubricant..


thanks again for any help
derek ( HOping to be driving my car by next weekend, keep your fingers crossed for me)

Use jack stands, get new exhaust gaskets, the a/c compressor will fit where the battery is, throttle body can stay on, mark your tranny lines, ground speed sensing rack- remove wire, O2's can stay in the pipes, see my locker and here.
Check the flexplate for cracks, 4 flex bolts are accessable thru a port top passenger side rear of engine.

Do you need more help? Send me a ticket. :D

Re: Engine Removal
 

Those are great places to start. I removed the throttle body and I thought it helped a lot. Other tips:

Label the fuel injection hoses.

try your damndest not to have to remove the AC lines from the pump. It was cold when I swapped mine and even after warming the lines up with a halogen light, the rubber still was not flexible enough to move the pump out of the way without disconnecting the hoses. Since it is summer, that shouldn't be a problem for you.

before you install the new engine, take off an engine mount and go to the local hardware store and buy a section of metal tube that just fits over the bolts that go into the crossmember. Cut a section of tube and slide them over the bolts before you install the engine. that will prevent the threads from getting destroyed when you slide the engine down in place.

change the two transmission cooler lines below the brake master cylinder and the power steering passenger side return hose while the engine is out. They are both easily accessable when the engine is out and a pain in the butt when it is in.

Good Luck. It isn't really to tough. Just time consuming.

Doug

Re: Engine Removal
 

What happened to your current engine that it has to be changed?

Doug, I forgot to mention the fuel line labeling. It would be easy to mess them up.

I also messed up on a wire for the + side of the battery. I though it was a ground wire. Nope:rolleyes:

Would you rather do an engine or a trans? Engine for me! (I have not done a trans yet.)

Re: Re: Engine Removal
 

I'm still debating. I think the best is to do both at the same time.

I do have one complaint about changing the EG33. There is no decent place to mount the engine hoist. I have a beautiful engine leveler that adjusts 4 ways and I couldn't find four places on the engine to mount it. If you use just a sling at the factory prescribed points, it will work OK, but I love having precision control over the movement.

Doug

my tips
 

I recommend pulling the alternator and using a long extension underneath the plenum to remove the flexplate bolts. They are 12mm and they tend to get really stuck so a socket really helps.

The crankshaft front bolt is 22mm. This info will help when you need to rotate then engine to get all four flexplate bolts.

Remove/loosen/undo everything that is not filled with fluid before doing the fluid filled parts. I hate laying in a puddle of antifreeze or tranny fluid.

Remove the radiator and fans as a unit before removing the engine. This gives you much more room and protects the delicate and expensive radiator. I also remove the charcoal canister and it's bracket for more space.

Thats all I can think of at the moment but I'll post more if I think of any.

Feel free to give me a call or a PM if you need instant advice. I can't garauntee I'll be there but it's worth a try and I will call you back if you leave me a msg.

Home# 603-332-4829
Cell# 603-496-3055

Good luck man,
Jay (pulled an SVX engine at least 5 times)

Re: my tips
 

This wasn't the same engine pulled five times, I hope? :confused:

Doug

I almost forgot,

When you refill the radiator, have the front of the car at least a foot off the ground. It allows the air to escape out of the heater and heads easier. I only had to fill the coolant once with the engine off. I have never had to top it off since the engine swap!

Doug

Well I'm not positive yet on whether or not its the rod but it sounds like it. Until the engine is out and torn apart i really wont know. I really really appreciate the hints and advice about swapping engines. Hopefully everything will go ok, the engine was suppposed to come tonight but the rear diff was leaking oil so, we dont want to take any chances of the truck breaking down. So I'll be starting the project tom orrow night hopefully. I really appreciate all the help thus far...

Cracked flexplates sound just like rod noise....

Doug

How would i check for that???

remove the engine or transmission and look :(

There must be a way to diagnose it, but I can't think of any.

I replaced my engine only to find out I just had a cracked flexplate.

Doug

dude
 

did you ever recieve my e-mail i sent you about the engine mods internals,;)