2 questions
#1: my car, when braking at slower speeds, like 20 mph and under, there is a noise like it is revolving with the wheels and it sounds like a wha...wha...wha... noise, slowing down the slower i go. i dont think its the rotors because i just had them machined, could it be the tires?
#2: i was wondering if anyone could post how many bulbs are needed to replace those behind the buttons in the above console and the ones behind the buttons near the steering wheel. |
Re: 2 questions
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There is a bulb behind the wordd Cruise, behind the fog light symbol and behind the word Security, behind the defrost symbol and behind the red triangle on the flasher switch. All of these wear the "green condom" -- The little indent on both the cruise and the fog lights should light up gold (yellow condoms), as well as the indent in the rear defogger switch. In the security switch, the indent should have a red light -- this is an LED and shouldn't have to be replaced, but, can, with some work. It's fitted into a small foam rubber square with contacts (freaky, huh?). Nothing but the red triangle lights up on the hazard switch. On the overhead, I would suspect a bulb for each switch. All of the words across the switchbank should illuminate. The sunroof switches do not illuminate. Hope this helps. |
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Re: Re: Re: 2 questions
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i see the light!
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Re: i see the light!
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Thanks, loads. I am a southerner. I am accustomed to "confusing instructions." :) (Looks like you and I have common taste in movies. FOD is one of my favorites.) |
Well, there's a few more cases of "gee, I didn't know that button was supposed to light up" for me :).
So the next question is: How do you get at the lights in all of those buttons along the bottom of the dash? From the front (pry off the button caps)? Or from behind (remove parts of the instrument panel)? Either way, how? (is this already posted elsewhere?) Has anyone tried using small LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs? The only thing that would make it difficult is that an LED usually needs a current-limiting resistor. But there actually are resistors small enough in size that they could fit inside the plastic bulb holder, underneath an LED (though it would be a b*tch to solder something that small). An LED would make the lampholder polarized, so if it didn't work the first time, you'd have to rotate it 180 degrees. But it would probably be the last time you ever needed to replace it. |
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Look at steps # 3 and 4 As for LED, I am switching all out to RED LEDs. All my interior lights are red now anyhow. For LED mod, you need to add a 330k resistor with the normal 2-3v LED. Lwin |
led's
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yea great question they are T3-1/4 which are pretty standard on automobiles but this being a suby who the hell knows!!!
does anybody no the form factor for these lights! thanks |
I think they are really T-1 3/4 bulbs. See my post in the Replacing Bulbs thread for more info.
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http://shop2.outpost.com/{PaLbGcU5vdFnFAnuJf8JHqn1CX0QdftQuyc8X4mxGBpXWUgAd 11J|-5040126657229797482/168694306/6/7001/7001/7002/7002/7001/-1|-8569735253179942601/168694308/6/7001/7001/7002/7002/7001/-1|1034083097060}/product/625772/
here are some leds w/resistor that will work |
ah crap to long of a url I think, its just frys outpost.com part number 625772
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www.eled.com also has the correct led size w/resistor!
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