Autozone pads?
 

well i got a set of drilled and slotted rotors with the black svx i just got, but i don't have pads. I was just wondering if i could use any type of pads with these type of rotors, i just want to get the car on the road right now and want the cheapest set of pads, i was just planning on going to autozone and picking up a set, but wanted to run it by you guys first...

The Auto-Zone pads will work but they might wear out faster. I would go with a premium metallic pad. The harder the pad with the slotted/drilled rotors will help you stop better.

Steve

Yes, Autozone pads will work. (I'm not sure exactly why you thought they wouldn't... but anywho)

Next time you need to replace pads and or rotors, (which will be 2-3 times as quickly because you got slotted and drilled rotors versus regular rotors) Go with a semi-metallic pad (Hawk's street pad, or metal masters) and use blank rotors. The slots and drilled holes do you no good, and reduce pad and rotor life by almost three times.

Best method for utilizing the stock brakes: Best pad you can afford, Cheapest rotor you can find, SS brakelines and good high temp fluid (look at the wet boiling pt when for a car that you don't replace the brake fluid very often).

The more often you change your brakefluid the better (to a point).

thanks guys! Greg, i was just unsure if certain pads could only be used with certain rotors, wasn't sure if a generic pad could be used with slotted/cross drilled brakes...

if i were you in the long run i would definatly keep the drilled and slotted rotors, i have never had brake fade since i put mine on, and trust me i slam on the brakes a lot, i have the hawk pads and the car almost pulls the back tires off the ground while braking

I Believe that the SVX was made too heavy for the brake system that it was given so the extra cooling/even wear that slotted or drilling offers helps reduce the chance of warping rotors, besides the fact that it reduces brake fading... Pads are cheaper that rotors...

From experience with heavy cars, both on and off the track, I'll tell you that you will get better braking without the slots and holes.

Think about this for a second. Pad is pushed against rotor, to use friction to stop. You're REMOVING friction area, and pretending that it will brake better. Slots do help keep the pad material "clean" and help escaping gasses, however in todays brakespads, both are negligable as far as braking performance.

Look at any of the touring cars racing today, all of them have solid rotors. Slots and holes (with emphasis on drilled being worse) do not have any advantage to blank rotors. If you want to spend money on rotors, get blank cryo treated ones, as they have been proven (at the track) to last longer. (I'm not really sure why cryo treating works, but it does)

Get the best street pads you can get, (I personally like the porterfields, however I doubt they make them for SVXes) blank rotors (cryo if you'd like) good fluid, and good brake lines. This combination will stop faster and last longer than any other.


And as for the "SVX was made to heavy for its braking system".... The braking system on the SVX was one of the best aspects of the car. It stopped from 60-0 in 114 ft, which was second to only the rx7 (110 ft) at the time (and the rx7 weighed almost 1000 lbs less I believe) SVXes have excellent brakes. The problem lies mostly within the pad choice, and proper maintanence. (and the weak front suspension as it dives when you brake)


Just as an added emphasis. Most people who track their cars (road race) and are still using the stock calipers will do the following. Larger CHEAP rotors (the stock Cobra 13" rotors are common) track pads, use and flush high temp brake fluid often, and use SS brakelines. This works for most everyone doing repeated 80-30-110-40-140-30-100-60 mph for half an hour straight. If this works for them, I think it will work for you. (substitute street pads for track pads to avoid bad cold braking)

actually the drills are simply to disapate heat, but the slots create heat and more friction causing a better stopping force, the track cars use solid rotors because they have huge 4,6, and sometimes 8 piston calipers that dont need to utilize the slots, but i guarantee my drilled and slotted rotors will last longer due to the fact that they disapate heat and dont warp like solid rotors do, the ss brake lines and brake fluid take the higher heat but you will soon be seeing either warped or cracked rotors due to the slow disapation of heat, for me and my hard street driving around town i would not use anything but drilled and slotted rotors, i resurfaced my solids and they were warped in about a 1000 miles, i have been going 11000 hard miles on the drilled and sloted rotors no problem

Drilled rotors under abuse = CRACKs. I won't put any money on it, but I'd bet if you went out to your car RIGHT NOW, took a high resolution picture of your front rotors, there would already be spider cracks forming.

Warping is not really about the rotors "warping". What is considered "warped rotors" is actually the pad material that turns into carbide, and then cementite. Read the Stop Tech White papers....uhh here http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml


When you resurfaced your solid rotors, you more than likely went below the accepted rotor thickness. This means there is just not enough metal there to disappate heat. More metal = more heat dissapation. (Yes, more surface area also means more heat dissapation, but the advantage is almost completely lost because of the reduced friction area)

Rotors aren't always more expensive than pads. Most track cars buy 2-3 sets of 30 dollar rotors. That means you get 4 rotors for the cost of 1 "super extra special" rotor. This means you basically swap out rotors and pads together. and they last longer.

The biggest problem people have when they get aggressive pads is that people don't bed them in properly, which results in more carbide/cementite build up.

Trust me, when it comes to braking, You're better off with a 30$ rotor, a 100$ pad, and new fluid. Per corner it is THE MOST COST EFFECTIVE street/track setup available.

Now saying this, back about a year and half ago, I bought slotted rotors for my SVX, and they've worked fine. I dont' think that they gave me any performance advantage over stock, and did significantly reduce pad life.

Now, you did hit on a point that is truly an advantage of drilled rotors. They do typically run cooler. However, running better pads (can withstand HIGH temps) and high BP Fluid, You still have the same braking ability at high temps as you would at lower temps, and you will not have brake fade. Plus drilled rotors make the rotors run cooler, the pads/fluid actually are the same temperature, or hotter due to less metal in the rotor.