5mt quirks
 

I have just reassembled my 5mt and have some more questions.
1. Is the idle supposed to be at 1k-1.3k when cold?
2. Is it normal for the mts to allow the engine to hunt?
3. Speed sensor CEL is on and my speedo doesn't work.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

1-Hmmm...Can't say i'm a good judge of that since im in florida but it just started getting into the 50's tonight and when i started her up it idled right around 750-1000....

2-By hunt do you mean vary in idle? Cause I've noticed mine will sit at idle and make audible noises but the variations are so slight they barely even register on the tach.... Or are you talking about while driving down the road and you are taking off and its obviously not full power then the power comes on after a certain rpm? ( my problem)

3-Is the speed sensor from the tranny hooked up? Its the plug on the passenger side I believe 3 wires. (obvious yes but just wanted to make sure)

Re: 5mt quirks
 

1 - That's where mine sits when the engine is cold.
2 - Don't know what you mean by "hunt".
3 - Sounds like the speed meter is not hooked up to the wiring harness.

Re: Re: 5mt quirks
 

1. ok so the low cold idle is normal?

2. by hunt i mean the car slightly adjusts the idle while sitting after it's warm. its very small but it is noticable on the tach

3. everything is hooked up but half way home from kentucky it just dropped out. Every once and a while it will seem to connect and the speedo will jump up to speed but shortly after drop out again. do u think i need a new sensor? well thnx for the comments.

have you double checked the connection just to be sure? I know mine was damaged in the transport and we had to fix the piece on the tranny. Sorry can't be of more help

mine used to stall out everynow and then when I pushed in the clutch and was downshifting...

i should probobly redo some of the wiring in the car because mostly all of her connections were quicky jobs. they were stripped and twisted together then tapped off. i prefer srinkwrapped terminals to be honest so i may redo all of them. i will see if this helps at all. thnx for the help

Mine will sometimes idle above 2000rpm when cold. Where does yours idle when it's warm?

Mine would also sometimes stall if I push in the clutch when coming to a stop.

It sounds like the connection plug to the speed sensor may not be giving a good connection. Either that or the sensor itself.

1. My car cold idles at a little over 1k.
the warm idle is below 750 at normal auto level but it
slightly changes while idling warm

2. it has only stalled on me once comming to a stop (haven't
driven it much)

3. I think its the sensor too but will repair all connections of wire
just to be absolutely sure.

The low cold idle is a result of how people are addressing the electronics portion of the 5MT conversion. Nearly everyone is leaving the "N" and "P" inputs on the ECU ungrounded which means that the ECU thinks the car is in drive (or reverse). As a result, the ECU will not drop into the high cold idle routine. To fix it, its necessary to ground the "N" or "P" input on the ECU. My first attempt here was to permanently ground the "N" input on the ECU. This seems to be working ok, but I'm wondering if having the ECU in "N" mode has any affect on the rev limiter. When I get some time (probably in a month), I'm going to wire the "N" input on the ECU to the clutch switch and the NSS on the tranny so that the ECU will only be in "N" when either the clutch is completely depressed or the tranny is in neutral.

When you are talking about a variable idle, what range of rpm are you seeing?

if you could send me a more detailed version of how to wire this i will try it. the car already has a clutch safety switch which does not allow the car to start unless it is depressed. So, if i can wire this thing to work like it had a auto but retain the 5speed i will be loving life. the variation at wamr idle is very slight like 100rpms maybe. well thanks again

Can't really say how to wire it into the clutch pedal and NSS on the tranny as I haven't tried it yet. I plan to try that method in about a month. In the mean time, if you want to just ground the neutral signal wire on the ECU, in my locker, there is a pin-out diagram on the ECU. Find the neutral signal pin on the ECU then get a wire tap and a piece of wire. Tap into the neutral signal wire with the wire tap and run the wire to ground somewhere on the car.

Heres one for ya....
 

I've been having lots of problems recently with the poor power delivery up to 4000rpms and also have been having the fuse for the turn signals keep blowing. When the fuse blows for the turn signals the car has a severe loss in power below 4000 when the fuse is in the power loss is not there???Its a night and day difference b/w the two. Also my reverse lights are on all the time now, which doesn't make sense since they've never ever been hooked up? I need to go through the car and totally rewire everything I think b/c there some electrical gremlins in there somewhere...

Yikes, don't get any water on those gremlins!

also when the fuse blows the lights for gear selection all get lit up on the dash.???just wondering if this sounds normal or not...