2nd to 3rd shift RPM flare...
 

I've searched and found lots of good info, has anyone successfully administered the band adjustment proceedure?

I will not bother trying it, but I would at least like to hear that it has been done???

I will be taking in my car shortly(this week) to have the trany problem s looked at andwant to be able to explain them properly.
-City Driving the tranny in 3rd:
1-2 feels normal with a smooth shift both at easy acceleration and agressive acceleration.
2-3 feels good under aggressive acceleration(most of the time) but under easy acceleration it almost always flares up by about 1000 rpm, then shifts with a clunk.
-City Driving the tranny in D:
1-? car shifts from 1st to what appears to be a very stalled 4th gear within about 150 feet, its like it forgot to both using 2nd or 3rd???

Does this info look accurate enough for a trany guy to go from, or are there any other 4EAT details that I should note before asking for an expensive assessment?

I wish I could help on that one, but I can't. :(

I assume that you are describing manual shifts of the shift lever above?

Shifting from 1 to 4 is the tranny band adjustment. I had a very similar problem on my 91 Legacy. The external fliter was also original and clogging up. Replacing the external filter and adjusting the band corrected the problem.

I have personnal driven the SVX trans 80K miles and I think it was rebuilt 50K before I built the car. The following applies to my 92 SVX.

The flare could be from a bad TPS since it happens under light load. I rate the TPS at 100k miles, after that replace it. The TCU uses the TPS to decide when to shift. I replaced the TPS in my car and it went away.

After about 8 months it started agian. I knew it was not the TPS as that was still new. I did the band adjustment and that fixed it that time. I seldom get the flare now. :) When I do it seems to show up aftre using the cruise control for extended periods of time.

It is not your clutches because when they go, it will flare under load.

It should not be present if you pull the dropping resistor by the battery as this increases the line pressure at idle and low engine speeds. This just lets you know it's a low speed problem. Not a permanent fix as the 1-2 shift will be very rough.

I have also added another dropping resistor in series with the original. This increases the line pressure at low engine speeds.

The light load flare is a low engine speed problem which if repeated many times will wear the clutches out faster.

I hop all goes well with your look and see.:)

Mine has been flaring like that for at least a couple of years now. I just learned to recognize right when it happens and quickly let off the gas so it shifts. It happens more when I'm in low speed turns as the car tries to shift between 2 and 3. If only that band adjustment screw weren't so hard to get to. :mad:

KuoH

tranny stuff??
 

Hi Chris,
Sorry to hear that transmission woes have reared their ugly head so soon!!

The only thing I can contribute was after the transmission was rebuilt, before the car was delivered to back me, the shop did some band adjustments from the top of the trans over the the top of the engine.

That said, it works flawlessly and i have 2700 miles on the car since and its do to go in for a checkup tomorrow morning at AAMCO. The dealer was prohibitively expensive about anything to do with the trans so I went elsewhere.

Hotshoe aka Richard

Thanks for the great info, I will mention these details to the Trany guy, however I'm told he is the best in Vancouver, so he may already know what to look for.
I told him it was a 4EAT in a Suby SVX, so he changed my appointment date, he either needed more time, or wanted some-one else to look at it, not sure.

All the signs point to some adjustments and maybe a part or 2, thx.

The Extra resistor???? What did you use and how much of a difference did it make? I feel that the shifts are way to soft, I did unplug it once already for a different reason, but didn't really pay attention to the shifts, as all I was doing was freeway driving.

Please let me know how things work out as I have the same problem and want to have it looked at as well, regads dave

I spoke to the Trany tech, car will go in next Tuesday. He says he has looked about 16 SVX's and NONE of them have ever needed a new trany, thats sounds really positive, or he's feeding me a line:rolleyes:
But he has made adjustments or replaced parts on almost all of them.
The full trany flush will cost me $165CAN, plus I'm adding a cooler this weekend, may just let him hook it up.

He has only replaced Differentials in several SVX's, I'm not sure what the evidence would be if its bad, but he says he know how the 4EAT should feel, and how it differs in each car, i.e. MPV, Pathfinder, etc. So it sounds like he knows what he's doing.

I'm a little concerned about having a full trany flush, but since this Pearlie has had regular changes I should be ok? Right????:confused:

From what I can tell from driving your car, I am still saying it is the tranny and not the differential. I could be wrong but I am often right in the tranny dept. (when tranny goes south without telling me).

L

ps. keep us posted

Thanks Lwin, I trust your judgement, I just hope your not right. crossing my fingers.

btw, I've been driving it with the resistor unplugged, and it appears to lessen the 2nd to 3rd float, but there's still a thunk when I start from a stop.

I'll let you know what the trany guys says, stay tuned.

I got the same resistor from a Legacy with both ends of the connector. This was spliced so that it could be removed and when connected is in series. There was no noticable change in the firmness of the shifts. It only seemed to help the light load flare.

I have noticed that this winter, my car is not banging into 2nd gear when it's cold out. So I guess the things I did helped out that problem.

I have been driving with the resistor out, and the 2nd to 3rd flare doesn't happen very often, and when it does, its not as severe. But the car is going to be checked out tomorrow. So I'll cross my fingers.

BTW, I spent 2 hours trying to get a B&M 70268 trany cooler mounted in front of the condenser, gave up and mounted it behind the condenser, infront of the rad.

Another note, when I popped the trany line off the OEM filter, there wasn't any oil poring out, but there was some in there if tipped.

I installed the cooler after the Filter. So it goes to Rad, then Filter, Then Trany cooler, then bad to the Trany..I hope.

I read at least one of the threads that Beav said using the Rad to cool first, then the trany cooler made sense to me, as the bottom of the rad will be the coldest coolant.

Oh, I'm babbling...L8r.

Just heard from the trany shop.........:(
I need a new trany.
Now I have to decide whether I pop in a 5 speed or rebuild, they gave me a price of $3-4kCAN(special price).

I have asked them to do a full flush anyways, he said it won't hurt, but a waste of money, if I can baby it for a few more months, I can then make a decision..:rolleyes:

Get the 5 speed if anything so you don't have to worry about this happening again.

The thing with 5 speed is that you will need a new clutch every so often as well. Just a thought.

I hate it when I am right about the tranny. Just never been wrong yet.

L