Code reads oxygen sensor left and right
 

To start with the last couple of months when the weather was colder if I would just start the car and take off, a lot of the time it would lose power and in one case it died on the highway but it did finely restart and after a while it took off to running as it normally did. Then since that time it has warmed up and I haven't noticed that so much but then yesterday morning I started it just fine and then it seemed to miss or cut out anytime I was just above an idle until I got it up to speed, not real bad but it was jerky like a dirty injector or intermittent missfiring, I put some good grade injector cleaner in and it seemed to help a little but it is still doing it some today. So I read the codes and it came up with 28,32 and 37, If I read that right it is both oxygen sensors and the left side knock sensor, it seems unlikely to me that both O2 sensors would go out at the same time and I am guessing that they are reading that way because of too much unburned fuel, do you think the knock sensor is causing the problem or something causing the knock sensor to go read bad? I did try to clear the codes as described in a different post on here and they didn't clear, if the problem isn't fixed would it clear and just re store the codes or will they come back immediately?
Thanks Vernon

I think that if you reset the ECU and the codes come back it would be time replace the O2's and knocks.

Sometimes when one code is tripped, it throws another. Definitely reset the ECU as commuter said and see what happens.

Maybe I didn't do the code clearing right but I put the two blue wires in the slots to the top left in the small black plug and started the car and then turned it off and removed the blue wires and without even starting the car I checked the codes and they were still the same as before.. I didn't see how it could have stored those same codes if the engine hadn't even been started. Wouldn't it work to disconnect the battery to clear the codes. I don't mind that the radio and clock looses their stored memories, that is easy to fix.. I need to take the battery out anyway to clean the little ground wire that is attached kind of under the battery.. Thanks for your replies.. Vernon

I got a check engine light a few weeks ago so I culled the codes. I had three codes, one for the engine temperature sensor, and both oxygen sensors. I haven't fixed anything yet, but I've noticed that the check engine light only comes on as the engine is warming up. Once the temperature gauge reaches the 1/4 mark, the light comes on, flickers a few times, then goes out as the gauge finally climbs to it's resting point at the 1/2 mark. I figure that the ECU has been seeing the wrong temperature and thus can't figure out why the oxygen sensors would be giving such strange readings. It just assumes they're bad. ...or maybe they really are bad and it can't figure out why the temperature sensor is giving such strange readings. If they were all faulty, then I would think the oxygen sensors would trigger the check engine light and it would stay on whenever there is a bad signal. ...but like I said, I only get the light when it's warming up.

Either way, it's not affecting the engines performance in any way, so I'm in no hurry to fix it.