tranny cooler installation
 

hey everybody, I just got a question for everybody. I have a tranny cooler: B&M - 1600GVW. I wanna install it in parallel. So here is what I am gonna have to do. I will cut both tubes going to tranny and put a T- connection in. So here is my question, what size of "T" should I get so all the tubes fit in it. and also, will it be better that I take out the radiator and then install it in.

Okay, that was the connection, now here comes next step, installing physically the cooler in front of radiator. There are couples of screws and things came with the pacakage, will that be enough or I need something to install it?

thanks in advance for advice:D :D :D :p :p :p :cool:

The fittings you buy should have the biggest ID you can get. I bought some by mistake:( A very small 1/8" hole was in the middle. Try to get at least a 1/4" hole.

I installed my cooler in front of the condensor on the driver side. It is a tight fit. After that I had the bumper off and realized it would have been easier. I used series after the radiator and have cold weather diverter valve.

I used 3/8" ID transmission hose

Mine had cable ties for fastening to the condensor.

I'm very interested in installing a tranny cooler. I am very new to the SVX world and am curious as to who manufactures the cooler and how to contact them. Is there more than one manufacturer?

P.S. A do-it-yourselfer I am not. Other than my local Subie dealer, does anyone happen to know of a knowledgeable and reliable shop in the San Francisco Bay Area that can help me with some mods to my SVX?

Thanks!

Jeff, Ravi described the most popular cooler. It's manufactured by B&M. I just had mine out of the box this morning, so I think I remember the model number - 70255.

The B&M is slick - it's not a typical multi-pass radiator. Instead, fluid has lots of different ways to flow in case clogs occur.

It's pretty small, costs only $50 and is best mounted in front of the AC condenser. They are available through Summit Racing.

I had the B & M 16,000 GVW installed between the condenser & radiator a year ago. Paid a local (Baltimore) tranny shop $85.00 to install it.

Ron.

just my opinion....
 

but i would go ahead and just bypass the stock cooler. for me it is just an accident waiting to happen. we all know it fails so why even bother with it?

anyway that is what i did when i replaced my tranny. that was 20,000 miles ago and i have not had any problems what so ever.

I bypassed the stock cooler 80,000(?) miles ago... and no problem.

very good.
 

that statement vern just confirms that i made the proper decision.

my other experiment concerning my tranny is that i have the resistor unplugged. it has been that way for about 10,000 miles with absolutely no trouble.

hey, I wouldn't bypass the stock cooler, rather than addone more to it. It would take an hour of more work to install that way, but I think it's better way to go. You wanna add all the cooling you can to your transmission; not take some away and add some more. If you get a new tranny and radiator, it also gives you cooling and doesn't bother you for easily about 30,000miles. John Hoffman (Svxcess) is an example. He has pretty good miles on his tranny, but don't have after market cooler. he just has stock cooler in his radiator, and still he is fine. But point here is tot add more cooling. I guess that's the reason I didn't wanted to bypass the stock cooler.

Okay, here is a problem I am having. When you are putting the cooler in, you gotta go underneath the car and remove the plastic protection (don't know the exact name), so get to tranny hoses. To remove that, you have to unscrew about 6 or 8 screws. So here is the problem, The most right and left screw are not coming out. They are turning and but not coming out. I talked to John about this today, it happened to him too. He got those out by pulling them with plair and unscrewing them at the same time. I tried that but I wasn't successful. I spend out 3 hours today just to take that out but couldn't get anything out of it. Well, any suggestions on that?? How can I take it out? has it happened to anybody else before. I swear, I sometimes hate it when things can't be normal in SVX - to do a little thing, you have to pull whole lot of stuff from it, BUT I STILL LOVE IT THOUGH. I don't know I have unconditional love for it.:D I bet most of the people do.:p


Ron: Where did you get that installation?? did they got all the hoses and Tees to install that thing by themselves.

[Ron: Where did you get that installation?? did they got all the hoses and Tees to install that thing by themselves. [/B][/QUOTE]

The install was done by Dorsey Transmission on Dorsey Rd. (Rt 176), Hanover, MD - close to the Arundel Mills Mall. I gave them the cooler, they provided everything else.

Ron.

The screws are just running blindly into 'free' metal. Use a pair of side cutting pliers and get them out to remove the belly pan. When re-installing use new self drilling screws or drill the holes yourself and use regular sheet metal screws. To prevent this from happening again move to a southern state that doesn't use salt on the roads in the winter. :p

An SVX prophylactic?????:eek: :) Its plastic (polypropylene actually), so it can't be a rubber. OK, I'll stop now.

Todd

Two problems with keeping the stock cooler is that it clogs easier (on 92 models) and depending on the conditions, it actually adds heat! The engine's thermostat is set at 170, so once the engine is warm, that's as cold as the tranny fluid will ever get cooled to, but that's never the case as the heat transfer efficiency is not 100%. On my 92 with the stock cooler bypassed, I can drive at highway speeds for over 30 minutes in below 90 degree weather without the tranny getting over 160 degrees. With the stock cooler, once the engine and tranny is hot, you won't see temps below 200 degrees. I don't know about the people with parallel plumbing, but I would venture to guess that if they bypassed the stock cooler, they would actually see lower temperatures.

KuoH

When the radiator is by passed. A large cooler is needed. It has to be as large as the condensor is in width and height or close to it.

Close, but not entirely accurate. The water temp at the bottom of the radiator is at its coolest. This also where the trans cooler is located. The thermostat keeps the engine temperature at a given point, not the radiator's temp. If the water from the radiator was the same as the desired engine temp it wouldn't do much of a job removing excess heat.