ABS light here today, gone tomorrow
 

My ABS light came on last sunday for 2 trips. Since then it hasn't been on. Would this indicate a loose sensor or a cracked tone wheel? I never got a chance to check which code was tripped.

Can I assume you were spinning donuts at the time in a gravel lot?
Then I would know why it came on.:D

No snow yet I assume.

The first time it came on I was going down the #1 highway at about 70mph in a straight line. It never came on the next time I started it but it did come on once more that day. Both times I shut off the car before I remembered to check the code.

Not that this helps, but, the same thing has happened to me twice in the past year. BOth times it was at highway speeds on a long trip (2-3 hours of constant driving). I'd be interested to know the answer too. I'd assume you read the maunal, but it says to turn the car off and start it again. If the light does not come back on, all is ok.

Actually, when checking ABS codes you need to keep the car running. Shutting it off will reset the ABS ECU and clear the code. Simply starting the car again won't trip the light. Look in the "How To" folders. There is an explanation for checking the ABS codes. You have to drive faster than 19 mph for at least one minute for any code to come up.

The best thing to do is to make a list of what all the codes are. The next time you're out driving and the light comes on, pull into a parking lot, leave the car running, and check the blinking light on the ABS ECU behind the passenger seat.


Dave

Code still hasn't come back.

On another note we got our first snow of the season. It was practically a blizzard! It all melted though and we're supposed to reach 24°C on wednesday.

Well the ABS light came back and this time I got the code:

Code 10 - Faulty valve relay or broken or shorted harness circuit
Faulty valve relay or broken or shorted harness, or interrupted ABS (causing brakes to function as a conventional brake system)
Unidentified fault that is not equivalent to trouble codes 1 - 16

Has anyone else had this issue and if so what was the resolution.

If not then can anyone suggest a good first place to start looking for the problem?

The ABS relays are located in a small box attached to the hydraulic unit itself. I believe the valve relay is the top relay. You could start by replacing that, although it sounds like the wiring for the relay may also be bad. That could prove to be a huge pain in the ass.

P.S. Your comment about the problem "causing brakes to function as a conventional brake system".......The ABS system is ONLY active during wheel-lock up when braking. All other times it is off, and your brakes do act as conventional brakes. A malfunctioning ABS system makes no difference in braking power or stopping distance during normal, non-wheel lockup braking.



Dave

That's not my comment. That's just copy/paste. I also believe the statement to be correct. The entire system acts the same as a (conventional) non-ABS system.