Originally Posted by svxcess (Post 624958)

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The only thing you need to know. Click HERE You will not find a better product anywhere!!

160A high-output alternator, completely rebuilt from the ground up.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...1&d=1258185383



$248.00 without core. Once they send you the alternator, install it and send them back your old alternator for a $60.00 core credit (They even pay for your old alternator to be shipped back to them at their expense)

Final price is $188.00 One year warranty. This is cheaper than a generic 95A rebuild from Subaru

I have one of these on my 96 Polo, along with a custom alternator wiring modification/ upgrade. Electrical system operates flawlessly. They are using upgraded voltage regulators from Germany for exceptional reliability. HERE is a link to my installation.


The only thing not shown is the 150A Mega Fuse inline on the power wire andattached to the fuse box.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/atta...1&d=1258186559


You will need to upgrade the power wire and grounds to 4 gauge, along with a fuse in the power wire as close to the battery as possible.


Talk to Christian when you call. She will answer any questions you have.

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Originally Posted by svxcess (Post 625149)

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid. I was waiting for the hydraulic ratcheting crimper I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making the cables with solid copper lugs.

I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

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Originally Posted by kwren (Post 625161)

Is Slo-Blo important?

Wondering if 125 amp or so without slo-blo might save us in the event of a regulator failure. Just wondering.

Keith:cool:

Trevor, if you happen to run across this, this is not a declaration of war. Just trying to find out what others might think.

Cheers?

Originally Posted by svxcess (Post 625149)

Bill,

The holder is available on ebay, Amazon.com, and a lot of other places.


Here is the link to it on EBAY with a Buy-It-Now price of $6.95 plus $5.00 shipping.

I order from Amazon.com because I get free 2 day shipping. See HERE


I will be installing it in the next week or so. I have the bracket already made that slips over the lip of the main fuse box and is held in place by the fusebox lid. I was waiting for the hydraulic ratcheting crimper I ordered from Harbor Freight to make the cables. I will be making the cables with solid copper lugs.

I will start with a 125A fuse and see how it goes. I have 150A and 175A fuses just in case. Don't worry, I will be taking great photos of the finished product. Christian at Maniac Electric is anxious to add them to the document she already has on tha website.

The Mega Fuse should be the most reliable protection we can obtain, given space limitations. The advantages of slo-blo technology and an easily replacable fusible link.

With my new alternator and the German regulator, I have 14.4V at startup and for most of the day, using various accessories, stay around 13.9V. It is extremely stable and responsive to the various loads. I rarely go below 13.5V.

.

Originally Posted by Trevor (Post 625168)

Keith,

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring;) ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

Originally Posted by kwren (Post 625437)

Actually, Trevor, there isn't any battery current except the current used to start the engine when the car isn't running. If the alternator is working correctly, the output from the alternator is greater than the battery voltage so instead of the "external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring;)" having the voltage supplied by the battery, the battery is actually being charged while the alternator provides all the current that flows through the "external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring;)" at the same time.

Please forgive me, Trevor, but there isn't a chance on earth that you don't already know this. :confused:

Keith:cool:

Originally Posted by Trevor (Post 638744)

I have just discovered this, as is usual, stupid sarcastic post.

The intent is to infer that information I had provided, was/is wrong. In case someone is disillusioned the statement requires correction.

I had correctly advised ---

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

N.B. Obviously, in the event that a short circuit fault to ground occurs, within the alternator or the external connecting circuit, full battery current will flow to ground, regardless of whether the alternator is running or is stationary. A fuse, fitted within the circuit close to the battery, will protect against this potentially dangerous battery current.

Originally Posted by 1986nate (Post 638748)

Can the 2 of you please stop bickering all over this forum. It's really getting annoying having the 2 of you constantly filling up useful threads with garbage. :mad:

Originally Posted by Trevor (Post 638752)

Do not instruct me.:mad:

The correction of wrong information does not constitute bickering and is NOT garbage. If you wisely take the time to read before jumping in and posting, you may understand the why and wherefore.

The fact that a certain member constantly tries to sarcastically score of me is not my problem. Under no circumstances will I let wrong information, directly contrary to what I have stated, remain available to members who may search at some later date.

Originally Posted by Trevor (Post 638744)

I have just discovered this, as is usual, stupid sarcastic post.

The intent is to infer that information I had provided, was/is wrong. In case someone is disillusioned the statement requires correction.

I had correctly advised ---

A fuse is a means of protection against high current, rather than high voltage. What is more the fuse in question here, is fitted as a means of protecting the alternator and the external connecting circuit, (i.e. associated wiring ) against battery current, rather than supplied items against the alternator. You will find this mentioned within the tread covering revised alternator wiring.

N.B. Obviously, in the event that a short circuit fault to ground occurs, within the alternator or the external connecting circuit, full battery current will flow to ground, regardless of whether the alternator is running or is stationary. A fuse, fitted within the circuit close to the battery, will protect against this potentially dangerous battery current.