ac blower fan not functioning
 

Hi,

Sorry to bother you all, I got a very big problem at here. Considering the foggy and icy windshield with no heat in the mid Winter with 23 degree F and below.

I have a 92 SVX with 134k, recently whenever I switched to either Auto, Econ, or Defrost mode in Low, Mid, Hi or fully auto, the ac blower fan completely not functioning. The digital temperature reading is working properly, I could check outside temperate and set the inside temperature. The car could crank effortlessly... yes the outside temperature for the past couple of days is quite nasty, consistantly below 6 degree F and normally around 23 degree F. The coolant fluid level is normal, I had the radiator swapped with a new one during Summer'03. Yes, the AC does functioning properly before, seems like it was gradually going toward the hibernation... meaning, ran for 5 ~ 10 minutes and stopped until now, it is completely stopped. This Summer, I encountered the AC fuses problem.... solved it by changing the blown fuses.

Any help or recommendation toward the problem solving or trouble shooting would be helpful.

There is a diagnostic check you can run on the climate control.

Instructions are on http://svx-iw.com/ (click on codes)

Thank you very much. Will try that one as soon as possible.

The climate control diagnostic return error code 35.... how to fix this ?

It could be a loose connection to the motor or the door is jammed or disconnected. I don't have my service manuals with me but I'm sure someone can look into it for you.

Thanks for the info...

Refrigerant
 

Another thing you may need to check is refrigerant. If it is low, the motors do not switch on. I think there is a certain amount of lubricant in the refrigerant. The system is set not to work when refrigerant is low in order to save the motor.

Your first move in checking the inlet door [C35] is make sure the fuse is not blown.

Joe.

Hi,

I checked those fuses, in the engine compartment and in the kick panel of the driver left side. They were all in good shape.

The refrigerant should be in good shape, the AC was working fine over the last Summer.

So how to reach into the intake motor door ?


p/s: Earthworm, nice picture you got at there, from the I. D. 4th stage episode 9 right ?

That's the one.

Hmmm..... could anybody out there help me to further my troubleshooting / fixing ?

Thank you very much.

Go to reaper's site (search, he's mentioned multiple times) and download the heat-A/C diagnostics section. barring that, here's a mini cut & paste from the whole topic.

BLOWER MOTOR DOES NOT OPERATE AT ALL OR IN HIGH SPEED
1) With ignition off, measure voltage between terminal No. 2
(Red wire) of off relay connector and ground. Off relay is located on
blower motor unit. If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If
battery voltage is not present, check fuses No. 20 and 21. Replace
fuses as necessary. If fuses are okay, repair open Red wire.
2) With ignition on, measure voltage between terminal No. 1
(White wire) of off relay connector and ground. If battery voltage is
present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check
fuse No. 15. If fuse is blown, replace fuse. If fuse is okay, repair
open White wire.
3) Turn ignition and A/C control panel OFF switch to on
position. Measure voltage between terminal No. 3 (Blue wire) of off
relay connector and ground. If battery voltage is present, go to next
step. If battery voltage is not present, check for open Blue wire
between terminal No. 3 of off relay connector and terminal No. 12 of
auto amplifier 16-pin connector. Repair wiring as necessary. If Blue
wire is okay, replace auto amplifier and retest.
4) Put AUTO switch in on position and fan switch in HI
position. Measure voltage between terminal No. 3 (Blue wire) of off
relay connector and ground. If approximately one volt is present, go
to next step. If approximately one volt is not present, replace auto
amplifier and retest.
5) Disconnect 2-pin blower motor connector. Turn ignition on.
Put AUTO switch in on position and fan switch in HI position. Measure
voltage between terminal No. 1 (Red/Black wire) of blower motor
connector and ground. If battery voltage is present, go to step 7).
6) If battery voltage is not present, check Red/Black wire
between terminal No. 1 of blower motor connector and terminal No. 4 of
off relay connector. Repair wiring as necessary. If Red/Black wire is
okay, replace off relay.
7) Remove glove box and disconnect fan control amplifier
connector. Fan control amplifier is located on cooling unit. With
ignition on and AUTO switch in on position, put fan switch in LO or
medium position.
8) Measure voltage between terminal No. 2 (Black/Red wire) of
hi relay connector and ground. If battery voltage is not present,
check for open Black/Red wire. If Black/Red wire is okay, replace
blower motor.
9) If battery voltage is present, measure voltage between
terminal No. 1 (White wire) of hi relay connector and ground. If
battery voltage is not present, repair open White wire. If voltage is
present, disconnect hi relay connector.
10) Check for continuity between terminal No. 4 (Black wire)
of hi relay connector and ground. If no continuity exists, repair open
Black wire. If continuity exists, reconnect hi relay connector and go
to next step.
11) Ensure ignition is on. Put AUTO switch in on position.
Put fan switch in HI position. Measure voltage between terminal No. 3
(White/Red wire) of hi relay connector and ground. If one volt is
present, go to next step. If one volt is not present, check for an
open White/Red wire. If White/Red wire is okay, replace auto
amplifier.
12) Put fan switch in medium or LOW speeds. Measure voltage
between terminal No. 3 (White/Red wire) of hi relay connector and
ground. If battery voltage is present, replace hi relay. If battery
voltage is not present, replace auto amplifier.

Electrical Gremlin Fixed; Unbelievable Cause
 

Well, I had been driving around for a few weeks with no blower motor. It's only 11tybillion degrees outside so it's been real unpleasant. It started out as an intermittant failure, then got real wierd. Blower motor would come on at startup but as soon as I hit the breaks it would die. Finally it died altogether and a few more interesting things popped up. The ABS light was steady on, I had no brake lights, and the electronic shift lock would not disengage.....and the blower motor was dead.

I went over all the diagnostics above from my CD and initially found no battery power to the blower motor off relay. I found the red/yellow wire at the fuse box and there was no power coming out there either. Pulled the plug and had batter power on the pin. Several times I would get power...then no power. Finally ended up hard wiring the blower motor to the battery with an inline fuse.

Since I now had a blower motor I focused on the brake/shift lock problem. The power feeds for those are on the same plug on the fuse box as the blower motor, upper most plug. Well, no power at the green/white wire for the brakes. Then a while later power...then none :mad: :mad: :mad:

All the fused were in good shape, I pulled them all several times and checked them.

So, now I'm checking the fuse box pins. Good power across the blower motor fuses, good power at the brake fuse. Then I have brake lights for a minute...then gone :confused: :confused: :confused:

As a last resort I decide to try and swap out the 20 amp brake fuse. I grab a spare off the fuse box cover and push it in....it's much tighter than the old one. What do ya know, I have steady blower motor power, brake lights, ABS light is out, and shift-lock disengages. Problem solved.

So basically I spent several hours over several days chasing an electrical gremlin that turned out to be a fuse with worn pins. I'm going to go out and buy all new fuses. Maybe splurge and buy the ones that light up when they blow. BTW, I've restored the original blower motor wiring.

I'm currently getting the brushes replaced in my blower motor.