I need help removing my front axles.
 

I'm finally tearing away at my SVX so I can shove that 5mt in there. Just removing the exhaust has taken nearly all day, but I attribute that to the semi-permanent condition it was left in by the muffler guys. It's down and broke in half but I still can't remove anything from the main cat back.

Anyhoo, I'm following Tom's write up and am on step 9.

I'm realizing I don't know what a roll pin or any of that other stuff is :D
so I need a break down of how to do this part, with pics if possible.

In the meantime I'm going to see if I can scrounge up that Chiltons manual, wherever it's been since I last used it, which was probably 7 years ago.:tard:

The roll pin is on the inner joint of the boot. If you look about 3/4" away from the trans and spin the axle, you'll see a roll pin going through the axle and holding it to the stub coming out of the transmission.

Use a 3/16" punch to knock that pin out. Then you can slide the axle off of the stub.

You'll need to move the outer wheel hub to give enough room for it to slide completely away. You can either disconnect the ball joint or the bolts holding it to the strut. If you undo the strut bolts, mark the position of the top bolt to keep your camber settings.

It will make reassembly a little easier if you completely remove the axles, but it can be done with them in place.

Removing this pin is proving to be quite a challenge.

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and 20 minutes later it comes loose after a sound thrashing.

My elbow is quite sore.

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and the other takes less than 10. :D

You'll find that they go in a lot easier than they came out though.

I had a bit of a time doing mine, but primarily because that was the first time I did any, on anything. I've always had a sore spot for anything with a front drive train, but I learned from doing the SVX and could probably do both sides in under an hour now.

If you drain the difff first you could just use a pry bar to pop the stubs out without removing the out pins.

Wtf is a stub?

I need to be schooled on how to disconnect the ball joint. I took 4 bolts out of this thing and there is no change.

There are 2 options.....
 

for putting the drift pin back in there are 2 different ways...
the right way and the wrong way. each choice is 180 degrees different from the other choice. If it doesn't line up perfect, don't try to hammer it in anyway. Turn the shaft 189 degrees and tap it right in. Might test it with the drift pin punch to make sure it is correct. After making sure it is correct, I would start the pin in the axle on one side and push the drift pin through the hoke and part way into the axle, holding it in place to line up the hole and gently tap the drift pin in! Hope this make sense, If not, ask and someone will explain it.

:)
Keith

It does make sorta sense, but I won't need to do that until after I put the new trans in.

I still need to pull the axles out. I want to disconnect the ball joint, but am lost.

I'm also calling it a night.

well the front axles are a female end on the transmission side. Now they slide over a stub (mini splined shafts that are like 6" long) and are secured to these shafts with the roll pin that is killinng you. On the other end thee stub shafts and are held in place in tthe transmission with a spring clip.

So instead of driving ouut the roll pin, you can just pop the whole thing out with a pry bar.

Sounds as easy?

Both roll pins came out almost 2 1/2 hours ago.

There is not quite enough clearance to pull the axle out. I need to swivle the hub. I can't, without discombobulating everything, which I don't want to do.

My ball joints are trashed so I would like to just remove them and get new ones, or new squishy thingies, whatever they are.

discombobulating
 

funny word

um, so you undid and removed the 3 bolts on each side of the car for the ball joints?

or did you do the strut bolts?
eitherway you just need to grab hold of the rotor and yank the whole unit, axle, sstrut, all of it out and then it is done. Myabe you need to eat some spinach.:)

The two close ones do not have enough clearance to be removed, and one of them got stuck. I figure if I jack the hub up so it's level I can yank them out, but I'm not sure what is going on with the one. It was loosened at first, and after the third bolt was loosened it tightened up and doesn't want to move.

you can remove the boltts by turning the wheels side to side and just wiggling the bolts out.

Bah it's been so long since I've driven it I forgot that the wheels could turn. :lol:
I'll try that in the morning.

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By the way, there is a tiny bit of slack in the driveline. Normal? It has like 3/8''s of travel before spinning the rear wheels and there's also a scratchy noise coming from my rear right wheel. Bad bearing?

Slack? IDK specs on that, but the noise is prob just brake drag.