AWD/Solenoid C Questions
 

I need some help.

I have a bad duty solenoid "C" according to the tranny code i pulled(code 24), and it has recently started to bind around slow speed turns. With the FWD fuse in i get no FWD light (should i have one on a 97) and sometimes binds in turns but less often (it seems). From a few searches, i can't figure out what that means, but i just want to replace solenoid c and see if that fixes it. What parts will i need to replace the solenoid, besides the solenoid itself. I ahve seen reference to removing the exhaust and needing parts for that.

ALSO, when i changed my internal transmission filter a short while ago i bent the little tube that goes beneath it (that you have to pull off to get the internal filter off). Does anyone know a part number for this tube, i can't get a picture because it was put back together. I bent it back, but i want to replace it while i have the tranny apart again in case it could clog up or something.

If anyone can provide a list of parts needed for the duty solenoid c i would really appreciate it. i will keep researching for now, i just can't afford to get stuck waiting for a part with the car in pieces.

also, it only binds when the engine is warmed up. any idea if the lsd additive "fix" would work for this until i get the parts to do the fix?

See my first post on this thread:
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...490#post432490

This is EXACTLY what my problem was in every respect. If the solenoid C/transfer valve assembly is faulty and stuck open, will have the codes and binding issues you describe and putting the fuse into the FWD slot will do nothing.

I believe the only part you need is the valve assembly/transfer clutch, P/N 31942AA090. It may only be a broken wire inside, but as long as you have it apart, replace it. Runs about $90.00.

You will need to drop the exhaust, the driveshaft and the rear third of the transmission to get to the solenoid/transfer valve (all one unit) Its about a three hour job.
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The part number is 21620AA013-Pipe Complete Oil Cooler Outlet. About $35.00 from your Subaru dealer (see attachment)
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wow, thanks very much. so in your experience you didn't need to break anything to get the exhaust down (that needed replacing when it went back on)?

-RM

Ryan,
you can check it out before you disassemble anything, via TomsSVX method.
Put the car in park.
Jack up the back of the car untill both rear wheels are off the ground.

Note, it IS safer if all of the wheels are off the ground!
We don't want any accidents!:eek:

Lower it onto jack stands with the rear wheels still in the air.
See if the driveshaft turns.
It should turn.
Now start the engine with the car still in park.
If the driveshaft will not turn anymore, it is the solenoid C,(sometimes called a single wire solenoid).
You will need a tailhousing gasket, and one or two gaskets to install the solenoid/valve assembly.
John has those #s in the stack of reciepts I handed him last night.
There is always a chance that something can break, exhaust studs, exhaust gaskets, etc, but take your time and be safe.

here are the part numbers from the receipts I have from svxfiles:

(1) 31942AA090 .Solenoid C/transfer valve assembly..$75.30
(1) 31337AA120 .Gasket, transfer valve... .$2.02
(1) 31954AA071.Gasket, Transmission tailhousing. .$2.66
.

Actually those gasket #s are switched.

31337AA120 is the Tailhousing gasket
and
31954AA071 is the Transfer Valve gasket.:)
Buy two of the transfer valve gaskets so that if the gold colored separator plate comes off with the valve assembly you will have the two that you need.
If the separator plate stays in place, then you need not disturb it.
As to the valve assembly, make sure you order it using the vehicle identification number.
On Pete's car for example there were three different parts available, for his 1997 Legacy Outback transmission, and they needed the V.I.N.to tell which one was needed.

It is definitely always in AWD, i have tried a few methods (from other threads) of checking, front wheels on grass, and tight turns with clunking then shutting off the engine..

Anyway, thanks for your help both of you, ordered the parts and should be able to fix it this weekend..

After reading some of the charges people paid for similar repairs ($700, 800, 1000) i am glad to hear that it shouldn't be to difficult.. hopefully all is well after this repair.

So you are saying that if inserting the FWD fuse fixes the binding problem, then solenoid C is not the problem? My AWD binds up badly when accelerating from a stop. Mainly around corners, but even in straight lines now. I also get the flashing power light when i start the car. When i insert the FWD fuse, the FWD light comes on, and the binding stops. I know it is in FWD because i can spin the front tires very easily.
If it is not sol C, what could it be? I was planning on replacing solC until i saw this thread, now i think i should look into it more. Ideas?? thanks

Have you checked your TPS adjustment?
It should be 0.50 volts at idle.

you have got it all wrong. This is only for the the symptoms are the same... If your FWD fuse does nothing, this thread applies to you... If the FWD fuse works... you still have a sol. C issue just not the same as this one

Tom

Ok thanks. I will try replacing the Sol. C.

I have checked my tps, but the voltmeter i used only went to tenths. I set it to .5, so i know it is somewhere between 4.5 and 5.4. That should be close enough right?

oops
 

I meant between .45 and .54 ;)

Thats ok according to Subaru.
Are ALL the tires the same brand, size, and actual circumferance?