Considering the purchase -92 SVX
 

Greetings to all mambers on this board! I sign in under RT Elite, mainly because that was my dream car (1992 Dodge Stealth RT TwinTurbo) about 4 yrs ago and I use that name a lot.

I am a car guy that thrives on DISTINCT, OUTSTANDING and genuinely UNIQUE vehicles as I think the Conquests/Starions, Stealths and SVXs are. The SVX is the only one that I have yet to own, and am now looking into a 1992 Black one w/88k, auto.

WHEEL BEARING: just replaced on the rear wheel, I think it was the pass side...
POWER STEERING PUMP: being replaced
TRANNY: He doesn't know enough to comment on the tranny's history, save to say it cuurrently works fine.
He claims all else is in working order

Is there anything more that I can be aware of when I actually go to see it/test drive it this weekend?

I want this car! Especially so I can stop looking at everyone else's and check out my own...if ya'll know what I mean.

I appreciate any comments/direction. Thanks to all. Props!

Here's a little secret on the power steering pump. It was probably fine. Sure it was either noisy, or didn't feel right while turning but that's all caused by one tiny little o-ring located under the reservoir. Hopefully you're not paying for the new pump because if you are then this will save you some money.

(keep the old pump if you are getting a new one)

I've only owned an SVX for 7 months, but...
 

Security system/remote door locks seems to be a relatively common thread.

When test driving, I would suggest both a soft touch and a hard touch on the gas to test the 2-3 upshift - that's where tranny problems seem to appear first (at least from my readings of past posts).

Listen for noises along the lines of a bad CV joint. Mine turned out to be a front differential that wasn't long for this world. Several, but not too many, have had a front diff problem.

If the car is parked in the sunlight, you can do a quick, easy test of the climate control by holding down the OFF and AUTO button as you switch the ignition from off to on. If the temp display settles down to a number, then there's an indication of a problem. Without sunlight you WILL get an error code of 13 - that's for the sun sensor diode on the dash.

Watch for the <power> light in the middle part of the dash display. If it blinks 16 times after starting the engine, something is up with the tranny (maybe simple, maybe not).

I forget what the engine computer does on start up to show a recorded sensor error. Somebody will probably chime in, or I can look it up - it should be obvious.

I bought mine with the dash lights flickering slightly. It could be fixed as simply as resetting the computer (worked for me), or it might mean the alternator is ready to go.

In several months of watching this board, those are the things that stick out in my mind. The engine and body integrity seems equal or better than Toyota - although this group might disagree, that's the general public's benchmark for OEM quality & reliability. Otherwise it's just the usual stuff when buying any used car.

Good luck - this is a great GT car for the $$. Look around this site, there's tons of great people and info.

I don't disagree with you at all, Lee. Toyota produces fantastically well-built and reliable cars. I loved my truck.

One thing nobody mentions when we get a new member is AWD functionality. I would recommend finding a gravel road and accelerating abruptly from a stop. My SVX (until recently <sniff>) never spun the front wheels at all - it immediately engaged all four. My wife's Legacy, on the other hand (same tranny and AWD system), will spin the front and then the rears engage with a soft <thunk>. This is not normal. If the car you're looking at does this, you're going to shell out for expensive repairs eventually.

Look underneath the car. Somehow. I admit that it is low and hard to get under. :) You'll know a poorly maintained car when you see one.

Mr Pockets....
 

Is that as sign of computer problems or is it the transfer case on the aft end of the tranny? I recently had my tranny rebuilt (after the front diff went & there was little meat on the clutches), but the rebuilder said nothing about the transfer case - and I wasn't alert enough to ask what it looked like in there (or if he had to open that end) - I am TOTALLY stupid on automatics.

I have no idea where the nearest gravel road is for me. The closest I can get is a quick start attempt with sand on the road (living on a barrier island, it's all over the place - nasty for riding my old Norton Commando). I did try turning left at an intersection once - with a medium heavy foot - with both rain and sand present. The front left tire spun some as the car moved forward a foot or two, then the whole car seemed to hook up. No clunks (audible above the engine anyway) - is the noise the thing to look for, or the delay in engagement?

The delay in engagement is the real symptom. Really, there's no noise to the <thunk>, it just suddenly kicks you in the pants a little.

As I understand it, the delay is due to worn transfer clutches. I suppose it might be due to the TPS, which I suspect as being bad on my wife's Legacy. She also has problems with hesitation and cruise control.

Thanks for the advise
 

Thanks for all the info on these rides fellows/fellas. I checked it out, and it turned out to be a dog! But, if anyone is interested in it, I'll give them my scoop.

Re: Thanks for the advise
 

How was the car 'a dog?' Was it poorly maintained, or did it just not live up to your expectations?

hey rtelite.....
 

do you own a conquest/starion?

I recently bought a 88 maroon conquest. on the drive back it sheared the timing belt and basically destroyed the head. in september i am dropping in a top end performance motor. it should be could for about 250 hp using the stock turbo and intercooler.

Conquest
 

1994SubaruSVX,

Sorry to hear about the head problem! I do not currently have one. I sold my 89 Red Conquest in Dec 2001...and at this point, I do miss it, she was my 4th.
The heads are always an issue with these IF they are not well maintained. The flip side is, if the car is well treated, not allowed to overheat and the like, the car is hard core, and I think hard to kill. Obviously, it has it's weaknesses like every ride, but you should have a total killer ride with that TopEnd engine...smokin' near everything out there...or at least a good chunk : )

Good luck with it. I hope to someday get another Starion/Conquest(StarQuest) and an SVX.

Tim

Re: Conquest
 

Im still curious as to what was wrong with the SVX you looked at.

-Mike

92 Subbie 4 sale: needing some help...
 

All Interested,

It was expecting a decent car, but it was cleaer that the car was not well taken care of. The car was dirty in and out-which isn't so big a deal as I can detail a car just fine. The right rear bearing was replaced, the engine sounded smooth and the body didn't have any major damage that I could see. The front CV joint boots were both busted open, so that'll have to be fixed(who knows if the joints have already suffered - I didn't drive it). The key solenoid was loose in the counsel, the moonroof didn't work, the center counsole was loose, the rear hatch release didn't work, the windows and locks seemed toi work fine...the AC worked and lights and wipers...no reverse lites working. The car was towed at one point cause the tow place sticker was in the door jam. Not a real nice ride. Unless someone wants to take the time and fix it up. I was given the price of $3500, but that for sure can be negotiated even further Im certain. the car had 88XXX miles on it. Not sure what trim it was.

If you're interested, go to http://www.lombardosautosales.com/, it's in Atco, NJ

write if you need more info.

the only reason i am buying a topend....
 

engine is that they supposedly solved the problem with the head and head bolts.

i was thinking about adding some engine fans and increasing the size of the stock intercooler just to keep her happy in all temps. i wish the one i bought was red. mine is that maroonish purple color. the interior is tight except for some loose stitching one the drivers side seat. a/c doesnt work so i may have to replace the compressor. i hope it is just unhooked. otherwise the car appears tight.

the engine is going to cost me $5000. that includes shipping my old engine to CA, the rebuild and replacement, shipping it back, and the complete install.

wish me luck because this all goes down in September.

I've got some good info and picts...
 

of a car that color, and it looks NICE! So I wouldn't be bummed about the color(although I know how you feel- I had a champaine one and I hated the color). Gimme your email and I'll mail you a cool pict or two and some good internet sources for parts, advice and the like that you may/may not already know about.

I'm at tkruiz@hotmail.com

thanks rt.....
 

i really appreciate it. i dont know much about this car or any turboed car for that matter so i could use all the help i can get. email the pics at cavaron@hotmail.com

i will keep you posted on the engine replacement.