Replaced Duty C Solenoid. Now what?
 

My car has been having some binding problems, so I made sure all four tires were worn evenly, and then changed out the transfer clutches as well as put a new duty C solenoid in it.

It is still acting up, and seems to get worse after the fluid heats up. Has anyone had a problem like this before?

Any suggestions on what to check next is appreciated. I'm really hoping that I can get the problem fixed soon, as I am planning on driving my SVX 4 hours to the Chicago auto show on the 8th.

Thanks. Paul

Please detail exactly how the car or transmission is "acting up."

Could be that transmission line pressure is inadequate.

If it's binding, as he says, it's possible that he pinched the Sol-C wires when the rear case was installed. That won't destroy the solenoid, but it WILL make it inactive.

We'd need to hear more details before jumping to conclusions though.

So to clear things up, after the transmission fluid is warmed up, when I turn at slow speeds, I can feel binding coming from the rear end of the car.

The transmission was rebuilt just over 1000 miles ago, so I don't believe that it is inadequate line pressure that is causing the problem. The transmission has been shifting absolutely perfect since the rebuild.

Before I replaced the transfer clutches and duty C solenoid, it was doing the same binding thing as it is now, so I put in the FWD fuse and the binding went away.

I haven't however reinstalled the FWD fuse after replacing the clutches and solenoid, to see if it once again gets rid of the binding.

In order to further clear things up ---- Does the binding occur ONLY when the transmission warms up and not when cold at start up?:confused:

The issue now is as to whether the problem is transmission, or possibly relates to the rear differential.

Try the test again with the fuse in, as this will give a valuable confirming clue. Also check again for codes. It remains to be established that the C solenoid is receiving a proper signal.

When the transmission was rebuilt, were all solenoid valves in the valve body replaced, as is the normal procedure?

There is little or no noticeable binding when the trans fluid is cold.

Friday, I will reinstall the FWD fuse and see if the binding remains.

I was thinking of using a duty meter and going into the wiring from the tcu to to find out if the tcu is sending a signal to the duty c solenoid.

The solenoids in the trans were replaced during the rebuild.

I will post what I find when I get back to my car on Friday.

Check the voltage of hte sol c wire where it goes into the trans, that will indicate if you have a problem there, or if there's a pinched wire elsewhere or if it's coming out of hte trans puter.

Note that solenoid C is normally pulse modulated.

You must take a voltage measurement with the FWD fuse fitted, ignition switched on, engine not running, selector in D, when the voltage should register as between 8 - 14 volts.

With the fuse removed, all as before but with the throttle fully depressed, the voltage should be no more than 0.5 volts.

The resistance of the disconnected solenoid should be between 9 and 15 ohms.

This could be a clue indicating low line pressure when the fluid heats up and becomes less viscous, but is not definitive.

Trevor = are the individual solenoids available for purchase? My son is looking to replace duty solenoid A and he was told that it is only available in a group ..?

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Tom Krynock



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[ MAIN ][ SVX ][ 1996 4WD ][ Transmission ][ At,control Valve ]

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i seem to have the exact same issues, turning in a parking space at slow speed, the rear end vibrates bad,

i took it to the transmision place and they told me it was the motor mounts, i order new ones at 180.00 a pop and should be here any day, hopefully that will fix the issue, if not it might be the ssolenoid that your guys are refering to

Not seeing the connection between motor mounts and rear binding issue :confused:

UPDATE: So I decided to just drive it every once in a while without the FWD fuse in, and the binding seems to have gone away. I also did another TPS adjustment the other day, and now the car drives PERFECT! So I wonder if my transfer clutch pack was just a bit too tight when I installed it and it just needed to work itself in a bit.

Yes Paul that is the most likely cause. They do recomend doing 'figure 8s' to bed them in.

Harvey.