And that is why you change your wheel bearings earlier...
 

After sitting for weeks I finally got some time to get my Black 1992 SVX back on the road... but things where not smooth. This involves fixing the lose front driver side wheel...

I figure it was a wheel bearing, I'd heard it going for ages, it never seemed as aloud as some of the other ones I've done, so I keep ignoring until handling was a problem (and lots of thumping and vibrations).

After I got the new wheel bearing in, I noticed something was right, there was still waaaaay too much play on the hub. That's when I realized one of the inner races had seized, and was spinning on the hub/spindle, this wore the hub down so it was too narrow to press fit the bearing... well, crap...

Examining the other parts, there was a grove on the outer edge of the rotor, wear on the brake caliper (fortunately not so much I'd have to replace it), some damage to the toner ring, and some damage to the ABS sensor (the tip was bent away).

I bought a junk yard knuckle (from a 1996) for $125 with shipping, which was in great condition. I put it on without changing the bearing (bummed that my new bearing was already pressed on the worn hub). I was able to remove the ABS sensor spacer and get the ABS sensor tip just under 1.5mm (the max allowed distance) from the toner ring, so I didn't have to shell out $150 for a new sensor...

Also, changed the CV axle while I was in there.

Overall, I'm a bit bummed about having to do that. I've a Pearl 1992 (~47K) that I want to get working instead continuing to spend money and time on my black one (was has probably unfixable rust issues).

Oh well, maybe next weekend I'll work on getting the Pearl one on the road (oh no, that will be me doing another wheel bearing). My 3.0R Outback also needs a wheel bearing/CV joint, too.

Cheers,
Ian.

Re: And that is why you change your wheel bearings earlier...
 

Pictures from the project:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dBGTy3oR0ZBFlhXZ2

Pity I'm missing one of the ABS sensor (bent tip) and hub (with a worn step on it).

Remember, waiting to do those wheel bearings can make it much more costly.

Cheers,
Ian.

Re: And that is why you change your wheel bearings earlier...
 

Great shots.

How could a car which looks s clean underneath have unfixable rust issues?

Re: And that is why you change your wheel bearings earlier...
 

Some pics of my main rust issue (there are a few other spots I noticed, but think I could repair):
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jOwXljYjHkhvPRT02

Poked it a little bit with my finger, and went through to the other side, then poked that a little and went further. So the sheet metal layer under that also need repaired.

I'm also concerned that in a crash, this will be come a folding point for the body. I have a TIG welder and could tackle repairing it, but I'd have to cut out enough the first layer to repair the inner layer (probably removing much of the interior of the car), then weld in the outer layer. Lots of folds and complications in there will make it tricky to fab.

I don't mind if you want to call me lazy. Perhaps it's repairable, everything can be repaired for a price, but given the value of the car (and that I have a much lower mileage one), doesn't seem worth it.

Also, given the rust, I'm not going to feel good selling it to somebody to drive...

Cheers,
Ian.