rust...
 

is anything good to spray on the lower part of our cars to slow down rust or prevent rust from occurring?

Thanks,
Keith

Re: rust...
 

move to Australia or New Zealand - we don't put salt on our roads!!

Re: rust...
 

Krown rustproofing is well regarded. You should be able to buy rustproofing liquid from an industrial/wholesale supplier. My friend just bought a 5 gallon pail of the stuff.
Your next decision will be how to apply it or just have it done for you. It's a very messy job.

Re: rust...
 

would love to!:)

Keith:cool:

Re: rust...
 

Fill your inner frame, rockers and every where else the sun doesn't shine with some nice gear oil. Drive around for a while and then go park in someone elses parking lot. Just don't tell Al Gore. Repeat every year. Oh yeah and develop some oil leaks and don't fix 'em. Another less severe option is to wash it with a cap full of kero. in your bucket every time. Remember Subarus rust from the inside out so you need to treat the inside not the outside.;)

Re: rust...
 

It is a very popular procedure here to have your car "oiled" every fall. It's gross and ugly, but it REALLY works.

Re: rust...
 

OUCH says the environment.

Maybe after he's done doing that, he can reupholster his interior with the hides of innocent baby seals! :lol:

Pffff EARTH, nobody else wanted it so now were stuck here...... :tard:

Re: rust...
 

An ounce of prevention is better than buying a new Kia every year.:rolleyes:

Re: rust...
 

Krown or Rustcheck. I have used Rustcheck on my SVX since new and have only now just got a small bubble on one door. Drive all year long and not garaged. These are the only two products of worth in my opinion.

(Apologies to benebob:repost:):p

Re: rust...
 

Problem with Krown or Rustcheck is that it is all dependent on the quality of the applicator doing the work. I know that most of the companies stateside have gone out of business with the advent of 10 year rust warranties from the factory, lots of lawsuits during the 70s and 80s and a public that simply buys a new kia every 3 years and "recycles" the old one. Yeah in an ideal world on a new car I'd go with a good serivce such as the ones you suggest but finding one here is nearly impossible, most won't touch an old car to begin with as they cannot warranty it since the rust starts the day it rolls off the assembly line.;)

Not that I totally advocate an oil bath but it does work very well. Gave my Brat a bath every year with gear oil and it definately kept the tin worn from breeding like rabbits. Getting inside of all those crevises are what is the key and like you said there are some very good products and companies who will do it.

Michael's statement is dead on. To build a new car today the emissions that's put out equals that of driving a mid 60s era big block muscle car 12k a year for 3 years. A little oil splatter here and there isn't gonna be that big of an impact. if you can lessen the number of cars you buy in your life by say 5. That said you can always buy an oil carpet and do it in Al Gore's garage. I'm told he's got plenty of lights and space for his mammoth family. Just be sure to bring along your cds with the Parental Advisory stickers to keep Tipper happy.:lol:

Re: rust...
 

For the most part these cars do seem to hold up better than most other cars when it comes to rust. While working on both SVX's (both 92's) I have found that it is the little things that rusted small nuts and bolts that are giving me the biggest head aches. I have had countless bolts broken or stripped due to rust causing me to have to buy whole new parts or drill and retap etc. Body panels are in relatively good condition though but for some of the things that I just wanted cleaned up I have been using this stuff called Metal Rescue. I swear by it. If you can remove the part and have a bucket or dish big enough to soak the part in this stuff will remove the rust. Youtube has plenty of videos of the stuff. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IERdb...eature=related
I think the part with the most rust that I have soaked was the underside of my shift selector assembly. The way this stuff works is really impressive and the fact that it isn't an acid and isn't harmful is pretty cool. As long as you can keep the part wet with metal rescue the rust will be removed. I know it doesn't help when talking about the undercarriage or preventing rust but it really is a great product.

Re: rust...
 

I used to use Fish-a-lin oil, even the local cats enjoyed the small drop-lets coming out from everywhere (for weeks on end) ha! ha!

Re: rust...
 

What about that red paint they put on the underside of big ships? I reckon that would be pretty good at stopping rust. And as a bonus you won't get any barnacles.:lol:

Re: rust...
 

I rust-proof my car myself, but I work in a shop that does that. Extra things I do "above and beyond" the typical work (I'm not paying for the goop or labour):

-FILL the frame rails, subframe, etc. The SVX has more chassis plugs than almost any car I've dealt with. Lots of places to pump to goop in.
-Remove the interior door panels and spray the doors on the inside.
-Remove trunk liner and spray inside of quarter panels
-Spray along the top of the plastic skirts to allow the stuff to run down behind where you never get a chance to clean
-Open sunroof and spray all the metal in there (go light because this could possibly drip through onto the headliner...nasty oil spots.

It takes me 3+ hours to do the car completely and I park on the street for the next few days. I'm also usually surrounded by a nice cloud of smoke on the first drive home. My car is already badly rusted, but it has slowed the process greatly and should give me the time I need to properly fix it.

Re: rust...
 

I do not envy you wet state folks..... here in NV you leave an ice cold can outside and it doesnt even sweat. Very very dry here.... one of the few perks of living in such a barren place.