help me write a 100k mile timing-belt "how-to"
 

I'd like this timing belt "how-to" for replacement of all items under the timing belt covers that should be replaced between 100k-120k miles. Please help me finish this "how-to". I've scanned through quite a few posts covering this topic, but I'm sure I've missed somethings. Please add any useful pieces of info, and when its done, hopefully, it can be added to the "how-to" section on the site.

essential 100k mile parts list

1) timing belt: 13028AA120
2) cam seals x2: 806732150 (updated)
3) front main seal: 806733030
4) water pump assy: 21111AA033
5) water pump gasket: 21114AA051 (updated)
6) thermostat: 21200AA072 (updated)
7) water neck gasket: 21236AA010
8) oil pump o-ring: 806919050
9) other essential parts?

optional parts list

1) oil pump assy (includes front crank seal): 15010AA133
2) timing belt idlers (optional): ??
3) timing belt idler bearings (optional): ??
4) other optional parts??

tool list

1) custom cam sprocket wrench (long breaker bar with bolts long enough to fit into cam sprocket openings)
2) 2" dia PVC pipe to tape in cam seals
3) c-clamp to position t-belt tensioner
4) three-arm gear puller for removing crankshaft sprocket

torque specs

cam sprocket bolts:
harmonic damper bolt:

immortal_suby's t-belt replacement procedure

Remove radiator
Break crank pulley bolt loose (use long breaker bar and starter)
Slide off crank pulley
Take off front belts
Take off power steering idler pulley bracket
Take off A/C idler pulley bracket
Remove plastic timing belt covers
Rotate engine until all timing marks line up and use chalk or marker to mark belt and pulleys just to make sure.
Remove timing belt tensioner
Put vise grips or clamp lightly on timing belt on both cam pulleys to keep belt from slipping off pulley and jumping a tooth
Remove idler pulley for tensioner
Remove toothed crank pulley (slides right off usually)
Drill small hole in crank seal
Use mechanics pick to pull crank seal out (stick it through hole you drilled)
Put grease on new seal and tap it in evenly
Use vise to compress timing belt tensioner and put small allen wrench in hole in tensioner to keep it compressed
Put toothed crank pulley back on
Put tensioner on
Put idler pulley on
Make sure timing belt is lined up correctly
Remove allen bolt from tensioner
Put plastic covers on
Put the rest of the stuff back on
Fill radiator
Drive!

harmonic damper removal tips

1) AT cars: block the engine from moving by placing a flathead screwdriver in the torque converter teeth. MT cars: stick the car in 5th gear and pull the handbrake tight.
2) Once the crank pulley bolt is off, the harmonic damper should wiggle off, or a puller may be needed.

crank seal replacement tips

1) Remove the half-moon key from crank sprocket first
2) Use a gear puller to remove the crank sprocket
3) If the oil pump is being replaced, then crank seal will come off with the oil pump
4) If not replacing the oil pump, drill a small hole in the seal, and hook the seal with a 90 deg pick.

cam sprocket removal

1) One method for holding the sprocket stationary is to get a piece of steel with long bolts going through that fit into the space in the cam sprocket.

cam seal removal

drill small hole in seal, and pull out seal with a 90 deg hook tool (per Beav)

oil pump replacement tips

1) oil pump replacement is optional (per Beav and red95svx)
2) use hylomar for sealing the pump agains the engine case (per Beav)

boundsie's cam sprocket bolt removal trick

Before you take the timing belt off, put a 17mm wrench on one pulley bolt and put your big cheater type 17mm socket on the other pulley bolt and rotate things until the wrench on one pulley is jammed against something solid. (I used a cheater against the floor) Then break loose the first bolt. Reverse the procedure for the other bolt. This will retighten the one you just broke loose but it won't be nearly as tight. Go back to the bolt you just retightened and put the wrench on it and smack the wrench with a soft hammer. Viola! Both bolts broken loose and no damage to the cam pulleys.

It looks pretty good. We just need to add in any tips on water pump and oil pump replacement.
Maybe another good thing would be torque specs.
If only my service manual wasn't way out in the garage right now.

I will help write and covert it to adobe Acrobat format and put it in the How-Tos. It looks like we need pictures as well. :)

Was this how-to ever completed? I couldn't find it in the how-to section & some pics to go with this would be sweet. I'd like to do a t-belt and reseal this winter but I don't even know what the oil pump looks like :D . I'll be fine! I just like to have visuals before I start.

I will check on this. Thanks for refreshing the thread. Maybe we can get it done now. :)

rad fianally gave out
 

I put 'the patch' on my radiator about 2yrs ago and it held until about a month ago. I've got a new one and was considering replacing the timing belt while I had the radiator out. Is there anything else that I should consider replacing? It's a 92 w106k.

From the sounds of one of my tensioners squealing, I will probably be doing this procedure shortly, and if I remember, I'll write it up with pictures, etc..

When you get it done, let me know and I can put it where it needs to be. :) I can help edit it if you need help.

The oil pump seals to the block with an 'o'-ring - replace it if you remove the oil pump. Replacing the oil pump is quite unnecessary, it's something some shops do to run the price up. There's even a TSB from Subaru to clarify this issue. However, removing the pump does make it easy to punch the crank seal out from the back of the pump...

BTW, don't glob a huge amount of sealer to the back of the pump. A thin, almost translucent amount is plenty. A large amount might interfere with the 'o'-ring's ability to seal properly.

Many may find that the cam seals are not actually leaking, but rather collecting oil that has been flung from a leaking crank seal. The crank seal is small and gets very hot which leads to it becoming very hard and losing its resiliency.

The covers for the timing belt invariably have oil soaked seals, which are impossible to properly reinstall. Now, I'm don't want to start a big discussion by stating this, but the timing belt does not require a hermetic seal. Throw those gawd-awful, stretched out, nasty seals away. There's probably more to worry about should they squish to the inside, get caught in the belt and derail it. If you really have concern for replacing them you might try carefully slitting (lengthwise) some small vacuum tubing and placing it where the seals used to sit.

I had found that the oil has caused the t-belt cover seals to expand. What worked pretty well for me was to cut out a section of the gasket to shorten it. I think I made the cut at the bottom of the covers so that it could act as a drain hole if the cut opened up at all.

I've got a more complete copy of the writeup in my locker. I wrote it after I did my t-belt, so it has more info and tips. If anyone wants, I can try to dig up the Word version of it.

If you can find it, email it to me at the address in my signature. :)

I want to add one thing... Many people suspect the cam seals to leak... while this may be so, I have found it to be more common for the intake cam plugs to leak before the actual cam seals. So, I suggest replacing the intake plugs, cam seals, and oil pump seal(front crank seal), while you are in there... Waterpump isn't a bad idea either;)

Tom

Definitely the water pump.

im currently doing a water pump replacement......i read a little about more things that should be replaced and now planning on doing the whole 100k mile deal. I can take pictures of anything that might be good for the "how to"

please let me know of what you need pictures of before i finish my project. send me a PM