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NO MORE CLICK click CLICK START..ONLY START! starter relay
Well it finally happened to me..click click click yadda yadda yadda why wont this ****ing car start!.....after tracing the wiring diagram and drawing out the circuit I began to do a simple voltage drop test in the most conspicuous area....THE INHIBITOR RELAY!!! GUESS WHAT!!! BAD INTERNAL CONTACTS...VOLTAGE DROP!!!
Ok sorry I got a little CAPS happy replace relay...start start start start start US models only, so our non us members with non us spec SVXii could not assist....we suck..before adding relays do yourself a favor and replace the bad one first. Inhibitor relay + inhibits starting = fail. |
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How about a little help for the lazy amongst us??
Where abouts? Pics of the bastard? |
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Mine was hanging under the dash... it may be attached to your steering colum..its a black box relay attached to a harness with 4 pins (connecting to a 5 pin relay as young buck Tom found out the hard way).
wiring diagram calls it starter inturupt relay adapter I will can take pics tommorrow I need to fix the mess I made...sorry its late |
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do show and tell!!
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Its the only black relay under the driver's side dash... I will give it a go sometime as my car had serious starting issues before the relay mod. Will be a good test bed to confirm
Tom |
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Cool find! Relay mod be gun?
Can it start cars that ran out of gas too? :o |
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Hoooooray, at long long last someone has had the brains to trace the problem. :) I have always suspected the inhibit relay because it is a normally closed device. This means that the contacts are closed by only spring pressure and also have limited over travel. As a result they are more prone to give trouble, than normally open contacts. As I keep pointing out, a fault of this sort left existing, could in future result in a completely open circuit. In which case a slave relay will not overcome the problem. Be very sure it will happen on a wet dark night, a long way from assistance. :eek: Cheers , Trevor. |
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One question:
is it a standardized part, or is it a subaru or SVX specific module. Part number or specification, as well as location would be helpful. I need to replace my steering column shroud covers anyway... |
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Ill do my best to do a quick write up by lunch time, with pics and part #.
And hopfully by this weekend, Ill write up a how-to no start diagnositic flow chart. |
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The complete start initiate circuit is not on record and this will be of real value. The inhibitor switch, security system and starter interrupt relay are also niggers in the wood pile. :eek: How about breaking open the faulty relay and advising what you find. Return spring pressure weak, obstruction in the armature return, or whatever. You are the first to properly diagnose the fault, so might as well go the full distance. :D Cheers, Trevor. |
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4 Attachment(s)
got to work..opened it up..sure enough...the spring was slightly deformed causing it to only make contact in one small area...after years of being abused in one spot it began to develope craters
Its just a plain relay the same one used for the band-aid fix 12v 20/30 amps the #s read 0332204150 the location, Attachment 12853 Attachment 12854 the relay, Attachment 12855 and the contacts inside the relay... Attachment 12856 |
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Looks like I know what Ill be doing to the Ebony this weekend! :D
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running 15 or so starts strong:) took it out to lunch and ran some errands..
I even stalled my car on purpose a couple times just to hear the sweet goodness of starter solenoid engaugement on the first try:lol: |
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Question, did it act as if it had a bad starter solenoid? click, no starter turn?
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Sounds exactly like mine...
new relay and steering column shroud install... here I come. :D |
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However I did not expect such a piece of badly designed junk, even though automotive electrics tend to be cheap and crude. My company would not have rated that relay, as capable of switching more than 5 amps of inductive load. It would have been out of the question to use same in any industrial situation. It is up to the Subaru designers to explain why a diode is not included across the solenoid winding, so as to shunt a nasty inductive opening spike. A normally closed relay opening such an unprotected circuit, is exceptionally vulnerable. :confused: |
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You phail.... The relay is a 5 pin w/ 87a... Gonna need the right relay to do the proper test....
Tom |
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Trevor ;) |
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The 4 pin generic relay is not able to work in place a of the 5pin relay fitted stock. I will get a new bosch 5 pin relay tomorrow at work and try again tomorrow night. Eric phails because he is good at it. You phail because its getting annoying Tom |
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I gave you a part # what more do you want? U want me to come install it too!:mad::rolleyes: The band-aid relay gsodonis had installed was a 5 pin...guess he was thinking ahead It still seems too easy to be true...all this mess we made with the "relay mod" and the repair was so dam simple.... |
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Thats why I want to confirm because it is overly simple.
Thanks for keeping the eye out Tom |
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The fault always was simple. The logical approach is simply, simple. Simple Simons, never simply trace a simple fault. ;) :lol:
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This no workie for me.. Took the relay off the ebony SVX I just bought which has no click, click trouble.. Put that relay on pearly and put the one on pearly on the ebony one.. Well, result.. Pearly still goes click , click and ebony goes vroom.. lol.. Anyhow.. I think I know what the problem on the pearly is.. I had the cover off the steering column off one time to tighten the bolts for the ingnition switch.. I noticed that the back of the ignition cylinder was/is lose.. I have a feeling that is where my problem lies. Maybe i'll look into that this weekend.
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when I write the no start diag I will explain how to diagnose the starter circuit using a volt meter and doing voltage drop tests. If you dont have a voltmeter and you want to throw parts at the car immediatly, the relay is the cheapest and easiest place to start. |
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Hey Eric.. I was kind of crossing my fingers that it was the relay.. I really do not want to get at that ignition switch.. Plus.. I really don't want to replace it. Cause I don't want a different key just for the ignition.. I'm going to do some search on here.. However, I don't think anyone has actually tackled fixing the switch. Anyhow.. I'm sure your info will help others. :)
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83131pa000 is the ignition switch part number, I think I paid like $35 from Liberty Subaru.
... but it's still clicking, so big thanks to Eric for my next project. |
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heres linky to the part at autozone. they call it the power window relay but its the same p/n. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...-+Power+Window |
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I just bought a relay and installed it. Took about 15 minutes. My car starts every time now :D
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Ok... I just spent an hour under the dash of my SVX looking for this daggum thing... and I didn't even see it.
I saw an orange relay and plug, that I put back on it's mounting tab, as it was hanging... I saw a rubber covered sort of relay screwed to a point under the steering column. But only three leads... didn't look like the right thing. Lots of plugs, lots of wiring under there, but I didn't see a bosch-style relay. I just went back and looked at Eric's posted pictures.... and it looks like it is near a white sliding linkage assembly... just to confirm, that is around the top of the brake pedal, and the white linkage is the hood release, right? Or is it on the gas-pedal, and HVAC side? I suppose tomorrow, I should take back the 4-pin relay, and get the 5 pin relay, anyway. It all gives me an excuse to put on the new ignition light ring, and a better-condition steering wheel shroud, anyway. :D |
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ok...
I'll have to take another look. The bit that was screwed to the steering column looks like a relay, with three pins, not four or five... although it had a metal mounting tab, which could have served as a ground, instead of a fourth pin for ground. The odd thing is that it was covered in a rubber square sleeve, with a slot at the top for the mounting tab to come through, and just the electrical plug coming out of the other end. It almost looked weather-proofed or something. It had a Mitsubishi/Subaru part number on the rubber sleeve, but I didn't jot it down. It is fairly easy to get to, so maybe I'll take it off, and snap some pics tomorrow. I did take it down, and disconnected it to investigate... then put it right back. The car did start a bit easier, afterward... BTW... what is the little footwell light bulb supposed to attach to down there? it was just hanging on it's wire, and I didn't see a place to fasten it to... |
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Mine was mounted to the steering column. Its on the left side of the steering column if you are looking at it from the outside of the car.
It's on the right side of the steering column if you are underneath the dash lying down. :) |
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the three pin is for your blinkers/hazards. Don't mess with that one they are fragile.
There is a 4 wire harness going to a 5pin relay connector. Yes it still uses 4 wires but the relay must be the 5 pin style Tom |
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I was wondering what it did. It did not like to still be connected when I dropped the steering column. A little super glue and solder and I patched her up. Must have done a decent job, my signals all work. Well, that doesn't explain why my airbag light is on now. I was hoping that little gadget was what did it. |
Gotta love this site!
This thread just saved me a whole pile of heartache and expense. I had this same problem and, with the information in this thread, I fixed it an 15 minutes. Before I found this thread I had planned to replace my starter when it wasn't the problem at all.
Thanks to all who contributed. |
Re: Gotta love this site!
Eric helped me out with this back at the Pumpkin Carve Meet in October at OT's and I haven't had a click since then :)
Over the summer I replaced the ignition switch which helped to reduce the clicking to an occasional problem, but this has eliminated it completely... |
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Maybe this thread should be made a sticky for all to easily find in the future...
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