To Build A Track Car...
I decided to take a spare (sunroofless) car I have sitting at work. and do my best to make it more track worthy, yet keep it street legal.
Skimming through the SVX gravel rally car thread I learned a lot and stumbled on some new questions. A list needs to be made to make this a more smooth experience ...here's my early brainstorm.. 1. Remove interior - I really like the dry ice idea. All of that sound deadening stuff is out. A. power seatbelts are out. any serious track car needs racing seats/ racing harness. The ones on the gravel car thread look great! but I didnt see any info on type of seat or installation how to. B. airbag system. depending on state laws, it may not be a good idea to remove it. but think of all those wires and sensors..plus the stock steering wheel has to go:) c. Climate control..after removing the a/c there really is no need for the fancy climate module...just install a knob for fan speed and a switch for heat? Im not sure how this would be done.. d. Extra modules and wiring...Is it really a good idea to drop ABS? I didnt get into it while i was at the track but im just a n00b! Im sure it will save 20+ pounds between wiring and soleniods..motor etc.. 2. install roll cage. serves a few purposes. harness bolting points, structural rigidity, saftey..I saw pictures but not actual dimensions...I guess that will be left to the people installing it. 3. Weight reduction - its obviously been done..but how? I read about bumpers being "gutted" and hoods being cut into..manual tranny..glove box doors..a few obvious things..but wheres the secret stuff?:p 4. suspension - I have coil overs for it...not sure how to calculate the proper spring rate...obviously I want the car to be closer to a 50/50 weight split. how much of a difference will ride height make? The spring seats (upper mounts) are starting to crack. What is a good solid upper mount? Swaybars, Im guessing the after market is limited, we have the adjustable end links. any reliability issues with those? Bushings, have to do more research. 5. Drivetrain - not going to jump into anything super expensive yet...ultimatly the car will need to be supercharged to keep up with monster vettes. 6 spd for durability off the bat though. keeping it mainly stock other than that...for now. 6. Brakes - I havent really seen anything concrete yet on the brakes except for the willwood kit. I may be missing something. I have read stock brakes work wayyy better when the car is below the 3k pound threshold. got a PWR radiator for it...has anyone toyed with creating an oil cooler out of the tranny cooler provisions on these things? where would a good place to tap into engine for oil cooling. |
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Eric old man. :p
I am only 80, but having done quite a bit of motor racing, I can assure you that at 96 years of age, you should have gained more sense. Forget it. :D |
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Be careful with the seat belts. Most racing harnesses are not street legal.
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not being built for scca or nasa or any specific racing group ...just a track event car ..that will properly represent the SVX. Thanks for trying to smash my hopes though...and im not really 96:eek: |
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I was planning of asking the same thing on here :lol:
Ive wanted to build some kind of odd ball subaru road legal track car and desided on using my spare JDM SVX. Its tidy but its been played with too. so have desided to go down same route. Ive partly pulled some crap out of it. all this audio wiring/TV ariels/gps cables came out. A massive pile. It will be a long term project so not in a rush. |
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You guys should probably look up some of the old VR-4 track cars before they were banned in America. I saw a long article on it's build that I printed out and filed away when I was still in high school. They had one in the JGTC series as well. It shares the similar obesity issues that the SVX does, with a lot of the weight being in the frame and subframe.
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Im STILL trying to wrap my brain around a sub 2600# SVX. How on earth is that possible? My 96 mazda MX6 weighed that much.
Not in a rush to get it done either....Ive got a year before going back to the track. The car is at work, so when things slow down here and there ill go pull some stuff out/stare at it... |
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Do you mean a GTO? |
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VR-4 is the twin turbo Mitsu 3000GT. Mitsu GTO to the rest of the world. I assume thats the VR-4 he means and not the Galant VR-4.
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Yea, I forgot there were international people here. The Mistubishi GTO. It was banned (as the Dodge Stealth RT/T) because it was boosted and AWD from factory, and dominated every race it was in up until the ban. It lead to the production of the Dodge Viper.
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Eric pm me for a better option then gutting another.;) |
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Ive been trying to look this stuff up but cant seem to find any thing so far? |
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I'm headed in this direction as well with my '92. 147k miles and fully depreciated. It is now equipped/modified as follows:
-'02 WRX 5 speed with Exedy clutch and Kartboy short shifter -Koni/GC suspension -Recaro seats and harnesses -gutted interior from B-pillar back -removed rear spoiler -removed rear wiper -numerous wheel and tire combinations I know, I know...don't gut it, it's a poor performance car candidate, it's a GT car...it's my car, it costs me virtualy nothing to own and I've got a ton of spare parts. I'll enjoy it as I prefer and have all the parts to re-assemble it when/if I need to. In the meantime I'll have some fun when I can with it:D Future cheap speed modifications pending up-turn in the Detroit automotive sector whcih is what my business supports. That'll happen:rolleyes::D |
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Yes. It's heavy, but no heavier than a BMW 3 series. In fact, I have been able to run, from time to time, with unmodified E-36 M3's. They are 3500 lbs and 240 hp, not that much different from my SVX. Well set up, with stiff springs, good shocks and various mods to get rid of chassis and suspension slop, it handles reasonably well. There are some tricks to driving it on the track, to avoid power-on understeer, but with those in place, it's a very enjoyable track car. Now if only we could get rid of that pesky overheating problem ;). Stay tuned. :cool:
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Good luck with your 02 wrx tranny...for some reason (shifting too fast according to the instructor) 4th gear would grind during the session:confused: and on the way home...it has not done it since though. I have a rubber grommet where the wiper used to be but i dont like the idea of someone popping it out for fun...what else can I put there? |
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I have the same issue.... 3-4th when in higher RPM's it's not as smooth of a shift as the other gear changes. I've tried double clutching and that helps a bit but it's still not perfect
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Are you going to fit a rear spoiler of some sort? to increase grip on the rear?
Or is there no point in doing that? |
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Tom |
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I agree with Tom. Very few if any SVX's will have enough power to traverse sweeping corners at speeds high enough to benefit from a rear spoiler. Our front weight bias means that the SVX has very good bite under braking and thus we also wouldn't get that much increased braking grip due to downforce. The fastest I have gotten my SVX on the track is slightly north of 125 on the Pocono single infield course. At the end of the straight, you have to pull it down to about 80 or so to make the turn. A wing would be pretty ineffective for that cornering.
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Definitely keeping an eye on this thread! any new updates?
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I'll try and answer some of the questions more clearly. I should add, I have no idea what your "street legal" requirements are so make the assumption that everything I suggest renders it illegal, unless you can work out otherwise.
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How did you go about having the heater setting locked on? Thanks:) |
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when you pull the heater box out, you'll notice that it has a few solenoids that drive a few flaps within the box. It's basically one flap for temperature (ie, more heater core exposed makes it hotter, more heater core blocked makes it colder) and then directing air to the face, feet and windscreen. In my case, I removed all the solenoids, and locked them into the "full heat" and "windscreen demist" setting...but then threw away the ecu and controlling rubbish. I locked them by screwing metal screws through the plastic to hold the flap in place...pretty high tech.
I'm not sure I have any photos sorry. Matt |
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More than likely ill find another car in worse shape than this one was...then make another attempt..I think there are a lot of useful tips in this thread and will be applying most of them to my gold car. |
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Either way, I would not be alone in advising against installing a roll cage unless you're going to perpetually be wearing a helmet, or risk bashing your brains out if in an accident. |
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I mite actually do that. It be easy thing to do:) |
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heater assembly:
use an assembly from a different vehicle! scout around salvage yards and see what might work! i think the best candidate would be from early 70's volvo 142/144 rather hard to find perhaps, but MINISCULE in size/weight!!!! as for harnesses/belts... YES use proper competition harnesses when on track, but DON'T use them on the street!! most arent DOT approved and should u have an incident, the insurance co. can say your injuries were caused by the belts and deny coverage!! instead, install stock subaru belts! they are cheap at a salvage yard and BOLT RIGHT INTO an svx!! the one caveat is that depending on which model/year belts you install, the reel assembly may need to be rather vertically oriented (90 deg to the ground) there is a check-ball inside that will lock the belt (or NOT lock the belt) when u least want it to!! my belts are out of a 1990 legacy wagon and work fine, mine have the check-ball so i had to do a bit of neanderthal engineering to the area where it bolts in so that it stands vertically...:o total weight is probably 3 -4 pounds/belt assembly...small price for comfort, convenience and legality. :) oh yes, they "click" properly into the stock svx buckle too !! :) i DO have a question though... i just yanked the a/c out of my car... if a person "split" the condenser, could you not use 1/2 of it for an oil cooler and the other 1/2 for a trans cooler?(4eat trans of course...) it saves the weight of adding cooler(s) and its right out front in the air-flow... seems like a clever idea....but am i missing something? obviously, the condenser would have to be properly cleaned/flushed out first... but can it stand the pressures involved...? just what psi does an a/c condenser face in normal use anyway....? i figure if a trans cooler's line can be rubber with HOSE CLAMPS...then the line pressure is moderate at best... but what about engine oil?...if a sandwich plate is used at the oil filter, does that mean a cooler is facing full oil pressure? just wondering...sorry for rambling on.... |
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Normally oil coolers tend to run like -8 or '10AN fittings. The fittings for the a/c would be much smaller. But I could easily be wrong, not having looked carefully at the SVX condensor. Though why try to re-invent the wheel when an effective alternative already exists? |
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oh for sure....no need to risk engine trouble when alternatives are so easy/cheap to install...
:) just thought it might be a clever way to "reduce reuse recycle" lol |
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not sure if this was mentioned but i just saw an 11 lb. carbon hood I thought was pretty sweet.
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http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/use...svxfiles|35429 |
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anything done with this car?? pics???
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shhh Craig... I was lazy ok, I skimmed... shhh... someone needs to make a roll cage before I try it! :) besides the desert racer I need something more along the lines of the pace car just still able to pass scca regs
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So who's tracking thiers?
Running up miles at Road America since 97 ok......... so it's not an SVX....yet http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...1_833186_n.jpg |
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