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Aussie Subaru Master Tech, any questions?
All right, hit me., (can't cay i'm gonna be able to help you with 'off the top off my head' fault codes/diagnosis on the spot :eek: . But I can defintely help :D ...I hope. :( . I have done a 'fair bit' of work with SVX's and a shipload of work on Subaru's in general. Fire away and we'll see how we go.
Try to include as much info as possible to help me to help you. Cheers Sixpack Subaru (you may remember me from such films as, 'You did WHAT to it?!', "I can't believe it's an 1800cc!" and the classic, "Why does your SVX have a Gearshift Knob?!") |
OK, You asked for it! ;)
I've had a problem with mine almost since I bought it. I've had numerous mechanical failures that I've managed to get around or fix properly, Blown tranny, seized power steer pump, corroded water pump, leaky rocker covers, etc, etc. The one thing that has been fairly constant though, (and that I've refused to go to Subaru to let attempt to fix for mega-bucks by just replacing expensive stuff till done!) is a habit it has of dropping off one cylinder at idle. :mad: When first noted, I thought it was a plug, so I got in there and got out the plugs, :eek: which all looked OK? I then thought it was a coil pack, so changed the one that seemed to be missing (at the time I would figure which one was missing by pulling off the the injector lead) which was the the rear left. Made no difference. :( It was suggested that my inlet manifold could be a bit cruddy, so that all came off to be cleaned, That was a fun job, NOT! After all the above (and then some!) it will still decide to drop a cylinder now and then, 9 times out of 10 the front right. :confused: You tend to pick up when it does it and learn all sorts of strange procedures to avoid it like; At start, turn on ignition and wait till you hear something go 'clunk' in front of the dash, (fuel pressure relay?) Wind engine to start, but hold starter on for at least 2 seconds after engine fires, (this seems to stabilize the initial idle) NEVER press the accelerator, I have been getting a start where it fires and runs up to about 1000rpm (typical) but instead of dropping back to idle, it just stops, then I have to use some gas. Also I find that to best avoid getting the 5 cylinder start next time, I always wait till the cooling fans have stopped before shutting down the engine, (can be a pain in summer) If I get a 'bad start' I can sometimes cure it by flicking the key OFF and back ON fast enough that the engine doesn't stop, which seems to reset the computer or something? I know the above has worked if the engine picks up to around 1500 rpm at which point it will run back down to it's 600rpm correct idle (when running on 5 cylinders, it generally idles at about 800rpm and shakes!) I've also found that when running rough, if I slowly add gas it will, intially shake harder, pick up to around 1500 rpm (on 6!) then find a spot where without moving the accelerator, the engine will pulse up and down between 2000 and 1000rpm? When I take my foot off as it's doing this, it will drop down to about 400 rpm on 4 cylinders and shake violently for about 4 seconds before going back to 800 rpm on 5 cylinders. When driving, once the engine is above 1800 rpm it seems to run on all 6, but the transmition seems to get a bit confused as to when to change gears, typically it won't kick down. The 5 cylider problem really shows up when you pull-up or corner, the rough idle plays havock with the power steer system, and I suspect confuses the ABS. I've suspected the O2 sensors, but have only changed one for a second hand one. (those things are expensive!) As a side note, I have another problem which seems to manifest itself with the rough idle in that, I have NEVER detected any form of engine braking from the tranny, :confused: :eek: either taking my foot off or even down shifting!, as soon as the foot comes off, the engine goes to idle, then the rough running shows up, the steering goes funny, the brakes start to pulse, etc, etc.. Typically I go through a set of pads a year! As for the steering, I should point out that the pressure switch on my pump that 'ups' the rpm under load has never worked, in fact I now have a Liberty pump and it isn't even fitted! (the switch) I know if I go to Subaru they'll want to change the ECU, the O2 sensors, the knock sensors, the TPS (been there, done that), my plugs, my coils, the injectors, maybe the spray rails, the fuel pump, the fuel filter, and god knows what else!! This may even cure the problem, but I'd have to sell the car to pay for it!! :cool: But I'm sure you enjoy a challenge!!! :D Arthur. |
Goddam!!!, (you bin waiting long :D ??) Ha!, feel better now??
just had a very quick read, two things come to mind above all else; the first is Idle speed control-so tell me what you have done to test it etc:D The second is Air-Flow Meter-so tell me what you have done to test that etc too!!:D Jst a quick read mind you, it's a busy time of year for me!!:D Cheers--I'll have a think and another read tomorrow and get back to ya! |
I have a tinny rattle (sounds almost like a metal ruler being tapped against a tin can) from under the car.
From inside the car, me and passengers all swear it is coming from directly under the handbrake lever (but on the underside of the car). Subaru have pulled apart all the heat shields several times and removed all the stones, etc... found nothing. It is driving me crazy. |
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How about any experience you've had boring/sleeving the EG33 block?
-Bill |
I tried to cram a box into my backseat but it didn't fit.
I ended up ripping off teh trim around the auto seat belt. It doesn't seem to want to pop back in. How can I fix it? |
Forgive me (Tech) Master, for I am unworthy...
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Hah,Hah, Bet you forgot all the Yanks would be watching!! :p
OK, first up "Idle speed control"? I thought this was dictated by the ECU, and was un-adjustable? (like it says under my bonnet) As for "Air-Flow Meter" I guess you check this from the code test plug(s)? I've never been game enough to try plugging wires around in there 'till I'm sure what the hell I'm doing? To that end I'll include a photo of my wire bundle, if you could confirm I'm supposed to use the ends of blue wires #1&2, to stick into orange block 'A'? Arthur. |
McTaff,
I had the same problem but I had taken all the heat shields off all ready. If you look underneath there is a muffler or cat flow through in the centre. That is the one, mine got really bad and we just cut it out and replaced it with a pice of stainless pipe. The exhaust gets a little loud but hard to notice. Cost me $50 to fix. One thing for sure the noise will get worst as the car gets older. If I get a chance I will take a photo of it for you. I can't do it till next week as I am going away. Tony |
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quick question, does it do it worse when the eng's is cold? If it does I would be listening for a loose catalytic converter core. Failing this there are plenty of ways to make it happen, does it 'tap' in speed with engine rpm or vibration, or is it more relevant to road speed. This may sound stupid but I have had tailshafts/propshafts that have had a 'blob' of weld inside caused during manufacture, I worked builiding tailshafts and balancing engine components for a year or so, and I saw it happen there too!! Not saying this is your problem, just a thought. Tell me more about the frequency of the tapping...... :D Sixpack |
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Cheers sorry I can't be of more help. Sixpack |
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have done lots of o/size stuff on EJ's, they recommend .5mm on some models, I have gone to 1.0mm on turbo units as well without issues. Although they were closed deck. I would probably have a good look at where the reliefs are machined out for the inner case half bolts before I decided to bore out with out resleeving-I have had many that have split down this section when loaded excessively after boring out! Even on a std application EJ22! What did you have in mind? :confused: Sixpack |
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Sixpack |
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The inputs responsible for idle speed control are the Crank Sensor, TPS,CTS, aircon and power stg switches(if equipped), in your model, if it has climate control then the idle circuit actually runs through the CCM. Basically you want to remove your ISC and clean it. If it has failed it will throw a code/CEL. The problem with the ISC is that it has no 'return signal' to the ECU, so essentially, if the ECU is sending the signal to the ISC and the eng is idling above the pre-determined threshold to open the ISC, then it will not change it's signal. Basically what I'm trying to say is that the ECU doesn't 'actually' see what the ISC is doing, it just sees the results;ie;raised idle, leaner mix etc... SO the ISC may be getting the correct signals, but is unable to move because of carbon/build-up. As far as airflow meter goes, this is one of the few things that CAN fail without throwing a code. Probe the back of tterminals at the airflow meter with a multimeter. You should have a voltage at idle from the signal wire of around 1.7-2.2V. Just get it idling, start probing until you get a voltage, the raise the rpm slightly and see what happens to it. What's the problem with the car mate? :confused: Cheers Sixpack |
QUOTE=McTaff I have a tinny rattle (sounds almost like a metal ruler being tapped against a tin can) from under the car.
From inside the car, me and passengers all swear it is coming from directly under the handbrake lever (but on the underside of the car). Subaru have pulled apart all the heat shields several times and removed all the stones, etc... found nothing. It is driving me crazy./QUOTE I had that aswell, after i had removed all the heat sheilding! The noise was directly under the handbrake area! What i found was happening was that the sheild that lies between the center cat =>- was lowering itself down onto the center baring of the rear drive shaft, simply grap a big screw driver and pry it away ;) or remove it or something along those lines :D |
I thought the tailshaft was ABOVE the exhaust, how can the exhaust, (or parts thereof), lower itself 'upwards'??? :confused:
Not flaming, just confused!:D Cheers Sixpack |
You see, I've had it through Penrith Subaru a few times, and as I said they've pulled it apart a zillion times... I'd have thought they'd have picked this up.
It's definitely a 'road bump' rattle, but strangely when I'm off the power it seems more prevalent, which made me think it may be the exhaust itself tapping against something. Definitely not associated with engine, wheel or gear speed. I've gone over it with them umpteen times, but I suspect they are checking the wrong things. They did manage to catch out that there was a missing bolt in an exhaust hanger the first time around (which I thought would fix it for sure!), but no luck. I'd normally do these things myself, but after adding up the time needed to work, travel, sleep and the various activites required to survive, I am coming up with a deficit of around 10 hours per week. Leaves me a tough schedule to fit in 'us time'. =========== I also have a buzzing through the exhaust at 1,900 -> 2,100rpm and ~4,000rpm, which I'm reasonably sure is the cat blown out (212,000km) or if not; it's potentially a loose exhaust baffle. I only say this because it drives me nuts as well, seeing as it mostly cruises (at just about any damn speed except freeway) at 2krpm. The drone is making me go batty! I'll fix it soon; just gotta find which cat it is, and what replacement I can use. :confused: |
Hey McTaff!
Just a thought but the heatshields on the 'headers'/exh manifold are known for cracking and losing their 'fiber-packing'. When are you down melb way next and we'll go for a test drive. (if I can't fix it, it ain't broke:D) Cheers--=keep up the info--=I'll keep thinking!!LOL!! Sixpack |
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Bunch of us are discussing how much displacement we might be able to get out of the EG33 engine by boring the block and stroking the crankshaft. There are a couple of threads already on-going on the site talking about possible mixtures of pistons and rods. -Bill |
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McTaff,
I will bet you both issues are related the buzzing is from the centre cat. Mine failed at 230,000 K which was good considering the punishment it gets on rocks etc. Have a look at the attached image as to where we replaced the Cat. I am so confident that the buzz will go away I will put 100 bucks bet on it. So take a chance and see. Tony |
Are you talking custom crankshaft or just an offset grind?
I had a mate who was a bit of a wacko, and he wanted to the same thing!!!LOL!! Ok so lets be realistic, you can maybe get .75mm from the bore wall, you 'may' be able to offset grind 'a little', but lets face it, there is not alot of room in the case for a larger diam crank throw without 'alot' of die-grinder work and maybe some welding? The other thing is pistons. I have a contact over here that make pistons from scratch. Basically, he turns up to your shop with his van and his 'plastacine', does the math, takes your math away with a mould of the cylinder head, and comes back about 3 weeks later with a new set of pistons!! Last set I fitted were to a Nissan RB30Hybrid that ran a 12 sec pass and melted the electrodes off the spark plugs!!! Put the pistons were fine!!!! But they COST!!! What sort have things have you come up with? Sixpack |
QUOTE=Sixpack Subaru "I thought the tailshaft was ABOVE the exhaust, how can the exhaust, (or parts thereof), lower itself 'upwards'??? :confused:
Not flaming, just confused!:D Cheers Sixpack"/QUOTE yes you are correct sorry got muddled when explaining, but it is still that partictar shield i am refering to, it taps against the center bearing beacuse it has, at some stage been misshapen! Mctaff, all the symptoms you have described are absolutly identical to mine!! When you go over bumps the heat shild bumps against the center baring, when you back off, the vrbration also causes it to tap the center bearing, mine got so bad it became constant (driving round with out the cat back exaust didnt help :o ), the only way i found it was by jacking up the car, lying underneath it and "jiggling" the rear drive shaft back and forth! I would sugest giving what i say ago before you go forking out money to get things changed! Im not a beting man myself but give it ago.... cheack out the diagram! http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ics/diaram.jpg |
Worth a shot! I'm not a beetting man eitherLOL!!!
(I love Typoo's)LOL! Cjheers Sixpack |
LOL, Damn it you saw my post before i edited it :D , you sure gotta be quick around here :o hehehe
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LOL, DAMIT! I'm Quick.....(LOL!!).
Cheers man, good info AND vibes!!! Sixpack |
And this is what it's all about ppl.........
sharing..... (Sixpack; feels all warm and fuzzy for a second then headbutts desk a few times.....till it fades)...LOL! Cheers Sixpack |
ROFL, hehe, thats it 100% right, ok McTaff now u gotta let us know how u went! :D
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It appears that I have done it again, I will have to slow down a tad on those dirt roads. K |
I have a problem I need help with, when traveling at a constant speed above 100kph the rev change slightly ever now and then. They shift 100 to 150 rpm the dealer thinks it is transmission switching into and out of direct drive in top gear. Think I understand what he means but as yet he hasn't been able to tell me how to fix it. Changed TPS but didn't fix the problem, all suggestions, idea and shear genius greatly appricated.
Tony |
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Tell you what, we just got back from a trip to the Eildon Dam, the side road that goes over the spillway and circles around the catchment is just an absolute 'car-advert' road-(as we call it!!LOL!). If you get a chance, it craps on the black spur, the Great Ocean Rd etc, Oh and BTW there is a 'Hillclimb' rd that is on the left about 1.5 kms in. Take the turn to the left!!!! You go up about 7-800Metres in 2.7kms!! and the last half is a one way road!!! THe best bit is the fact the road, (actual black-top/tarmac/bitumen), is absolutley deserted, there are leaves everywhere and you need to dodge the occasional fallen tree/branch etc.... But I HIGHLY recommend it!!!!! VERY good for the soul :eek: Cheers Sixpack Subaru |
Nothing too exciting 6pack, just the normal round the back of Yarra Glen - St. Andrews area dirt. Trouble is just as you feel that you can maybe get going you have to curb your enthuisism and remember the old farmer might be coming the other way.
Lake Eildon sounds like a good trip, after the Christmas things are over I'll have to take a peep. K |
I have a problem
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30432
Does anyone know what $$$$ i am looking at to fix this?? |
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Anyway, is it 'actually' revving higher/lower or is the tacho fluctuating slightly without the 'actual' rpm changing? Sometimes the OEM tacho is not the most accurate or responsive gauge...... If it doesn't surge or anything I wouldn't be too worried, just wait for it to spit, then put a manual in it!!:D Sixpack |
Sixpack,
The car changes rev I can feel it happen. I agree I have my five speed ready to go in so I won't worry to much about it. Just like to understand what is happening. Tony |
All your tyres the same rolling diameter??
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Only noticeable on smooth roads when you apply any sort of drag (slight incline, slow bend, wind gust?) to the car. Can only just feel it, more visable on the tacho, rpm changes about 100~150 rpm. I assumed this would be normal operation of the lock-up torque converter, but in hind sight, I figured the Tranny designer/programmers would have allowed a wider range between when the converter had locked up till it needed to unlock to remain in the torque band? My car does this around 2100 rpm, so I guess it's only just ready to go into lock-up mode? Have another odd problem... At around 2700 rpm in top gear, I get a vibration which at first I thought was a wheel imbalance harmonic, but turns out to be the engine starting to miss on one cylinder (like my idle problem?) It's really annoying when it happens 'cause it's right on 120 kph, so you either have to accelerate to 130, or drop back to the speed limit. :( Still looking for the ISC. :D Arthur. |
Sixpack
All tires are the same purchased at the same time. I don't mind problems just need to know what is causeing them so I decided if I need to fix or not. Tony |
I'll just interpose myself here.
For people who don't understand lock up torque converters. This is a cheat primer which is a bit of lies-to-children, but will give a basic understanding:
Your 'fluid coupling connection' torque converter will effectively "clamp together" and give direct drive similar to a normal clutch. So at asome circumstances (noticeably when you are cruising) the revs will not move about so freely; the wheels will be connected in a direct way to the engine revs. This gives a more efficient transfer of power to the wheels. I usually see a drop of ~200 rpm when I'm cruising and the lock up takes effect, you may feel or hear a slight change in the engine sound when this happens. When I 'power down' to accelerate, the engine will labour briefly before unlocking and the revs will then spin up and I will accelerate away. (You don't really want the lock-up engaged while you are accelerating hard). Of course, while the TC is locked up, minor changes to throttle settings will then show virtually no movement to your revs, so this is the best way to check if the lock-up is engaged or not. It will act more like a manual car in fifth gear in this respect. |
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As an aside, on SVX #2 with non-standard rims (235's) it has a shudder between 95-110 odd. Balancing and alignment are out (4 wheel align done by bith Subie techs and independent ppl been done). Doesn't bother us too much, but some food for thought. |
I've been slightly annoyed by my SVX's long high idle time. When cold, under 45 degrees, the car will stay on high idle, 1700-2000 rpm, till the engine heats up enough for the climate control to come on to blow hot air. Usually about 3-4mins. I can take my foot off the gas and let the car drive a little on it's own. Like cruise control. I replaced the auxillary air control valve because that closes after the engine warms up, and only provides extra air for cold starts. Is this a normal high idle period for this engine? I have no other SVX to compare it with. The idle is steady at idle when warm.
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