I broke my speedometer when I pulled the dashboard
 

I changed out my bad heater core this weekend with a used one (thanks again benebob/hocrest)
This requires removing the dashboard, console, dropping the steering column, and pulling the steering support beam back. Yes, it sucked.

Got it all back together, blew out the air bubbles, and I have heat again!

But - I no longer have a speedometer reading

Feeling stupid, I went through the whole process of removing everything and checked to find out what I left unplugged, pinched, or otherwise screwed up.

Didn't find anything. Wiggled all the connections I had played with just to make sure.

Put it all back together and still no speedo. The rest of the instrument cluster seems to work. Not sure on the gas gauge - time will tell with that.
Cruise control no longer works either.

Just feeling stupid.
I guess a used cluster will be my first (maybe cheapest) line of troubleshooting.
I hate to lose my mileage count (245k) :o

Try to check the speedo part of the dash... maybe something is stuck or cut in the wirings.. check the back of the speedo and its related pins in the dash.

I pulled the speedo cluster about 5 times and drove around each time. I even tried leaving the screws loose and wiggling it a little while driving. No luck. I took a good look at the wire tape and couldn't see any that were broken or anything. I also checked all the tabs on the sockets that it plugs into and they were all in good shape and bent out far enough to make good contact.

It was pretty frustrating.
And all I have left in the fridge is corona light and a few lagers. And it's no beer sales sunday in SC :(

:eek::eek:That's a crime!:p

Don't panic. :eek: It is very likely that fuse No. 15 is blown, as this fuse covers both the speedometer and fuel gauge circuits. :)

P.S. You are very lucky that I checked your thread, because the heading in no way describes the problem and it should be within the technical section.:confused: Refer sticky covering this issue! :p

Thanks Trevor,
I checked all of the fuses quickly earlier today. I'll go out now and pull each one again to double check. (I blew up my test light a while ago)

Since this thread is turning more to tech help than just me drowning in my sorrow I'll go ahead and move it a and re-title it. :)

To make matters worse, I found a bottle of Genesee Cream Ale in the back of the beer fridge.

Drinking it now.

Checked all the fuses - they all are complete.
I really need a test light to verify they are all getting power though.

I don't see one labeled as anything related to speedo (maybe meter?) and can't figure out which is # 15 on this diagram but I checked each one for a break. All of the fuses under the hood are complete also.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/...Fuse_Cover.jpg

Congratulations on the reply.:)

I would say that the applicable fuse is that labelled “ Meter SRS Lamp. ;)

The wiring involved is automotive stupid and involves a duplicated circuit, so that a fault regarding connections would appear unlikely, but who knows? If the fuse is intact you must have disturbed something, somehow, somewhere.:eek:

That's what scares me. I fear that I pushed a 15 year old wire to it's limit. I am hoping that some random electron caused the speedo to fry when removed and a replacement will fix it. Unfortunately the truth will be far from it. I'll be chasing spiderwebs of wire for a long time. The cruise wouldn't stop working just because the speedo display stopped. It has to be sensor or wiring related.

Mr. Dumas
 

You have PM

If the fuel gauge is not working as well as the speedometer, it must be a wiring, connector, or fuse issue. It could hardly be possible for both instruments, to have failed at the same time

ok tell me where you found that fuse box?? i aint got one of them i dont think

LoooooooooooooooooooooooooL.... check near your left foot inside the car :p
All Japs are like that... one near the left foot and the other inside the engine bay

if you have an abused one, it probably doesn't have the cover...
its in the same place as most subis

Matt if you are interested I still have an available cluster, but the one printing plate is bad on the back that illuminates the PRND321 inbetween the speedo and tach.
Everything else works though and if you need it I can pull it out of storage and get you this so you can troubleshoot.

PM me if you desire this.

Bah! You were supposed to call me when you were going to do this so I could help!

Anyways, glad you got it back together.

Update:
Fuel gauge works.

Speedo - dead
Speed sensitive steering - dead. Operates at full assist at speed, seems to have very little assist at low speed.
Cruise control - dead
Odometer - dead



Today after a few miles of driving the check engine light came on. Only one code is present - code 33 - Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit

Thanks for the offers on a speedo cluster - Todd already has one in the mail to me. Thanks Todd! I may not end up needing it but I am taking it anyway. The price was right ;)

I'm glad you weren't here - I was cursing like a sailor! :lol:

The front speed sensor would affect all of those things. Did you work under the hood to get the heater hoses off of the heater core?

The passenger side heater hose isn't too far from the speed sensor... It is on the front diff, about 1" forward of the diff dipstick...

Thanks Hocrest!

I was working in that area to reinstall the hoses but unfortunately the sensor was plugged in - thought maybe I had am easy fix.

But -
I got out the service manual and went through the VSS2 troubleshooting.
I got the correct resistance between the VSS harness and the TCU harness.
I got the correct voltage between the VSS harness and ground
I then removed VSS#2.
I then **** my pants when I saw some of it missing
I then re-read that section of the manual and found out that the sensor key part is not connected and you have to remove it separately.

Testing VSS2 voltage while rotating it I am not getting any voltage from it at all. It is supposed to change from 0 to 5 volts while rotating. I get nothing.


I guess I need to order that part.

In the meantime - the shop manual is not clear on reinstalling the sensor. It states to grease the tip of the shaft to keep it from falling out. Then to "insert it correctly in the key groove at the tip of the speedometer shaft" Which you can't see! I guess I just cross my fingers?

No kidding... Its like one turn, two turn, and right about there :confused::confused:
:lol: I'm sure there is and easy way that both you and I have just been overlooking

I just took a drive to get some beer (astounding!)
And the speedo worked.
For 1.5 miles.
Then it quit again.

I cleaned up the terminals a little more. #3 on the VSS plug was a little blue. Tomorrow will tell if it works again. I don't know why I get no voltage when spinning the VSS with the tester hooked up, but then it worked for a short while minutes later on a drive. But, I am sure OE on voltage meter use could explain it. :o

From where did you get this information? :confused:

No problem Matt. Glad I could help.

Good luck on the troubleshooting session!

Todd

The factory service manual. Section 3 page 201.

Check vehicle speed sensor 2
1) Remove VSS2 from transmission. Connect body harness connector (B9) to VSS2 and turn ignition switch on
2) Rotate vehicle speed sensor 2
3) Check that voltage across VSS2 sensor connector terminals change (from 0 to 5) volts four times per rotation
Connector & terminal / specified voltage
(B9) No.1 - (B9) No. 2 / 0 -> 5V


My only guess why I got no voltage is that of the 3 terminals I might have connected to 2 and 3 instead of 1 and 2.

And you had it connected to the car and had the power on when you tested it?

Yes, plugged in with stripped wire leads inside the connector/plug to hook the alligator clips to. Ignition on.
I even went back and tested it again. I got nothing. I get 8 volts from #1 to ground (no spec in the manual for that) , 10 volts from #3 to ground, and no resistance when grounding #2.
I guess it's possible I am mixing up 1 and 3 and I only get 8 volts from # 3 and that's my problem? :confused:

Thanks Matt,

It now turns out that my JDM model has a different type of sensor, hence some confusion. This could prove to be useful knowledge.

Cheers, Trevor.

its hopeless, just sell it to me cheap

After cleaning the harness and terminals on the sensor last night, the speedo worked all day today.
Many thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction! Trevor - thank you for making this thread turn from a "woe is me" to a troubleshooting endeavor.
A special thank you goes out to Hocrest for pointing me to the root of the problem. You rule! :)

Very interesting!
The service manual also notes that there are 2 speed sensors. When one malfunctions the other is used to keep the car operating. This would explain how I was able to drive without problem.
It also states one reads the front drive, and the other at the rear. If the 2 work in harmony to read speeds front and rear would they have some input into the transfer of torque in the AWD system? I noted no spinning of the front wheels while the speedo was out. Perhaps it goes to a preset torque split when one sensor is out? I'll have to do more reading to understand it further.

It would be a great help to the community if we could ship a set of the US market service manuals to you.

Good thinking Matt.

The two sensors are used as signal inputs to the TCU as you have suspected, and you are probably correct in assuming some sort of pre-set torque split should one fail.

It is also interesting that signals from the ABS sensors are also used. However I can only confirm this in respect of centre differential models, as is my JDM car. The centre clutch models could well be different in this regard.

As it happens svxcess has very kindly already sent me the US 1992 No. 6 electrical section and it has proven very useful. Special thanks are due because postage by air was not cheap.

As always, Trevor.