Thanks Tony. I don't have the factory repair manual yet, so that picture helps a lot. Your explanation was good on that forum. People should look there if they plan to go the electric pump route, or do a custom setup like the one I posted.

I like the Lisle funnel, too. Good post guys. The system tester they show in the video is a great thing to have, too. Pressurizing the system a few times can help get rid of some stubborn bubbles. If you look close in the video the guy is tapping and wiggling the hoses to help get some of the air out.

Re: New Overheating Clue
 

As I am planning to get the race car going in the next couple of months I am working on sorting out the potential over heating issue. On my daily drive I have fitted dual temp guages, engine and return water. When I was away in the north last week the car was running hot on both guages but not the SVX dash guage so it was still with in operation range but it would have boiled if I had of gone racing with it. The 2 guage were only 10C difference on a 34C day. Return water from the radiator was as high as 100C.

Tonight I did a trial. The car has driving lights, engine and gearbox sump guard and standard SVX sumpguard. So I did a test run with various options and a outside temp of 8C driving at a constant 110 kph.
- Control run return water at 80C
- Removed the after market sump guard and the tempreture on the return water dropped to 60C.
- Removed the SVX sumpguard and the temp dropped to 50C.
- Removed the driving lights and the temp dropped to just above 40C

As I mentioned this is the return water tempreture which will relate to how much cooling the radiators is capiable of handling in the race car. Hope this is a bit of help to others in understanding that there are was to handle cooling.
Tony