Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Have you ever done it that way Tom? :confused:

Check with a few dealers and see how they do it!:)

It is so easy and quick that it is almost like stealing.:lol:

Keith:cool:

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Is it bad that when i broke mine loose i put a ractchet on a flexplate to torque converter bolf to break the crank pulley bolt?

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Agreed. I've always stuck a prybar or screwdriver in the top access hole and used a breaker bar.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Just like the axle nut removal method:eek:

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

"Different strokes for different folks" When I had an axle nut that my impact wrench wouldn't budge... with my big old breaker bar I actually lifted the right front side of the car and that didn't phase it... I simply got a 12 ft piece of my 3/4 inch galvanized pipe that was laying around, used it as a cheater bar and sat on it!

The nut loosen up so easy that every time I need to get an axle nut off, first I go get my 12 foot length of galvanized pipe...

It depends on how you spin it, shade tree, or logical mind. :lol:

I might even add, if I can help you out of a tough spot, great! If you elect to take an alternate path, I couldn't care less. Even with that there are different opinions, but "couldn't care less" is correct. so, could care less (most folks) is not correct.

Keith:cool:

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

I've never had or heard of anyone having the slightest issue with using the breaker bar wedged on the chassis or some other solid place.

If the pulley/bar is turned so it's virtually under tention with no movement then it's actually less likly to cause a problem than using the locking hole and bar and then slipping with the breaker bar trying to force the nut.

Either way has it's issues so it's really how confident you feel and how easy you want the job to be, I wouldn't say one is any better than the other.

The other way is the pulley tool that uses the 4 holes on the pulley and has a long bar and then the use of a breaker bar to undo the nut...it's a pain in the ass and needs 2 people ideally.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

I have more than likely taken more off than you will see in a lifetime. Everytime i have wedged the flywheel. I don't care how dealers do it using the starter to break a bolt loose is stupid. When the tools break loose and go flyingacross the shop and kill someone there is no excuse for your own impatience. Suggesting anyone do something like this is poor practice and irresponsible. Hence why it will never be in a repair manual

Tom

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Don't want to take part in the debate, just wanted to point out that the pulley tool would be useless in this case since the pulley is separated.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

I was refering to the method of driving the car forward while the breaker bar was wedged to the ground.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Never thought of that one for the axle. :lol:

"Sitting on that 3/4th inch 12 ft long galvanized pipe is so nice and quick anyway! I will forgo the driving with the breaker bar. I just woke up this morning, but my first thoughts are depending on which side axle nut is on, driving "forward" might not work every time. Give me a few minutes to wake up here, but I don't recall and "left hand threads on either side:confused:... seems like they are all right-hand threads.

Keith:)

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

For the record, I was able to break the bolt loose using the wedged flex plate method. Took about 10 seconds with two of us.

I appreciate everyone's input with this issue. For those that recommended the starter method, I'm sure it works just as easily, however I saw a bigger margin for error, and I just wasn't 100% comfortable trying it out.

Regardless, the bolt is out. Now I just need to pop off the pulley and install another.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Aren't the holes for the pulley tool in the center part, not the separated outer part?

Also, I did it by wedging the flywheel, but the engine was on a stand, so the starter wasn't an option. It worked fine that way though, and I'd do it again. Does need two people though.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

The crank pulley tool fits on the centre part of the pulley in the 4 holes (that's what they are there for) so it makes no difference at all if the outer part has seperated or if it's even still attached to the centre part.

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

For years I did a "one people" thing without wedging anything. One big break-over bar, one dig mauler, one people... Me.

Then I bought my high mileage claret. First order of business, new timing belt, etc. Break-over bar with my big old mauler didn't work. No clue what had been used to make sure the bolt didn't come loose before I bought the car. :confused:

Even that tight, when some helpful person suggested the starter thing, I was petrified at the thought of doing it. I mustered up the courage to try it and my fear turned to glee! Maybe that helps explain where I am coming from.:)

Keith:cool:

Re: Crank Pulley Separated
 

Got the pulley off just now. What are your suggestions here?:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H...0/IMG_1378.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6...0/IMG_1379.JPG