a/c

[BruceT]

I've got a faulty tx valve in the air conditioning system (which caused the seals in the compressor to blow out, but that's another $1000 story).
I've been told they can't separate the tx valve from the evaporator, so instead of costing $160 for a new tx valve (plus labour), they need to also replace the evaporator which costs $700.
These prices are Aussie, and the parts will come from Japan.

Does anyone know of any alternatives?

Bruce

[oab_au]

Originally posted by BruceT
I've got a faulty tx valve in the air conditioning system (which caused the seals in the compressor to blow out, but that's another $1000 story).
I've been told they can't separate the tx valve from the evaporator, so instead of costing $160 for a new tx valve (plus labour), they need to also replace the evaporator which costs $700.
These prices are Aussie, and the parts will come from Japan.

Does anyone know of any alternatives?

Bruce

Gid'ay Bruce, sorry I can't help you. If you post this message on the Technical Q&A and include the year model. Somebody in the states has probably had the same trouble and could help.

All the best, good to see you post.
Harvey. ;)

[Jamsvx]

Hi Bruce

Sorry to hear what happened - I have hear that an air con failure costing about a $1000 is inevitable with the SVX'es....our Japanese friends were, about 3 months ago, reporting aircon failures in their 1991 cars (JDM were on sale in 1991) and then filitering to the 1992 cars.

Crossing fingers that I won't have to cross that bridge soon - enough problems with the paint on my roof going all wierd

:(

[svxistentialist]

What's your problem James? Describe it.

Do you think it is from sunshine, oxidation?

Or is it a respray gone wrong?? Hard to imagine original paint going off, but anything is possible. Describe it and I may be able to offer some advice.

Bruce, can't help my friend. Know next to nothing on aircon. Follow Harvey's advice, post on the Technical forum. The guys on there have experience, will help.

Joe

[BruceT]

Thanks for the responses,

Just an update, I picked up the evaporator/Tx valve from the a/c people, and yes, it did have a little oxidation (the Tx valve is brass and the pipe it connects to is Aluminium), but it only took me 10 minutes to work the joint and take it apart.

The good news is it has saved me $700.

In one of the US bulletins on changing the a/c gas from R12 to the environmentally safe gases, it mentioned changing one of the flexible hoses by the compressor. How important is this? The a/c people I'm using (Subaru recommended) can't understand why...

Bruce

[Jamsvx]

Hi Joe

The roof went all rough and had white 'blooming' in the paint...I brought it to a detailer that was recommended by a Ferrari driver (really good price - its there as I type this so will see the results in a few hours) who said that the car cover allowed water in which was then trapped bwteen the car and cover, and moisture built up in the paint
:eek:

He checked the car for resprays using a paint meter...only the rear bumper (which I knew) and front (which I suspected) have been...all metal surfaces are original.

Turns out the $$$ car cover could not cope with the bushfire residue fallout + mega harsh Australian sun, and lost its waterproofness.

3 weeks and it will be able to live in a garage!

Yay!

James

PS: Bruce, glad to hear that you saved a $$$$!!!

[svxistentialist]

Unusual problem James.

Would not happen in Portarlington!:D

Glad you have it in hand.

Can't help with the hose Bruce, but put the question on the technical forum, they may know on the US side.

Joe

[lee]

Originally posted by BruceT
...snip...In one of the US bulletins on changing the a/c gas from R12 to the environmentally safe gases, it mentioned changing one of the flexible hoses by the compressor. How important is this? The a/c people I'm using (Subaru recommended) can't understand why...

Bruce

The hoses only have to be changed if the hoses are new and designed for R-12. If they are old, they don't have to be changed. The reason is that old hoses have had their molecular "holes" plugged over time. The new 134 hoses have a finer "grain" to them than R12 hoses. This isn't my area of expertise so sorry about the loose technical terms there. I have no idea if anybody makes R-12 hoses anymore, I'm guessing not as it would be logistically easier to make hoses for both types using the same material. I changed from R-12 to 134 about a year ago when I needed a new compressor - no other changes made - works fine.

[BruceT]

Thanks for that Lee. Your explanation makes sense.

[lee]

You're welcome.

One thing to add, but probably not needed since you're using a shop, but here it is anyway. The oil in R-12 is some type of mineral based substance - this is what "plugs" the "holes" in the hoses because 134 is a smaller molecule. If the system gets totally purged and flushed, then this protection MAY go away (I simply don't know). There are a couple of oil types in use for 134. Only one (that I know of) is compatible with residuals left from the R-12 system.

One more thing. If you are replacing any components (like the compressor), then the new O-rings you install should be the type that won't leak 134.

Your technician should know all this. I would say what type oil is cross compatible, but I have forgotten, and you're better off trusting someone who does this for a living anyway.

[Beav]

PAG oil goes both ways.