PhyrraM
11-16-2015, 01:53 PM
I'm new to SVX ownership, but an SVX has been 'on the list' since 1991. Test drove many over the years, but I finally picked up an almost free '94 FWD beater to use as a daily drive for a while.
As expected, the original factory struts were way past their prime. I could likely compare it to an '80s Lincoln. Plus they wore unevenly, so it had this very disconcerting diagonal see-saw feeling over larger bumps and such. While on smooth surfaces it still held the road well, when it got bumpy things got a little shaky.
As most of us know the choices for replacement are far too limited. OEM and Koni are out because of age related quality problems. STI conversions are a bit to non-bolt-on for me, although I do admire those that make it work. That leaves Ceika and AMR. Reviews of Ceika indicated a few fitment problems while reviews of AMR talked of long waits and poor communication.
The only one that had no complaints of the actual product was AMR. I decided to deal with the possible communication and lead time issues. Communication turned out to be fine. Lead time was 2 months - about what I told myself it was going to be.
They are simply beautiful. I freely admit I don't have any other coil-over experience, but I do know a bit about machining, welding and fabrication in general and these pass the test. Very impressed.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5736/23000381696_297eb3253b_b.jpg
Using AMR's recommendation for a street setup/OEM replacement I ordered with all rubber mounted top plates (no-camber plates), softer springs (6K/4K IIRC), and the Swift spring upgrade (lighter?). The fronts use a bolted in rubber bushing w/integrated bearing that looks easily replaceable. The rears use a replaceable compression bushing set - pretty traditional.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5627/23037547901_7e11cb2ec2_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5724/22634166279_5eeeba5473_b.jpg
Installation went fine. Same as replacing an OE strut - minus the spring compressor and moving all the hardware to the new bare strut. The only installation issue was that on the front, the small bracket that holds the brake line to the strut body has it's thread hole one size too big. I used a longer bolt, ran it through the AMR strut threads, and put a nut on the far side.
Adjusting the rear height can be a little bit of a chore. I do not know what is normal for other coil overs, but on these the easiest way for me to adjust the rear was to unbolt the strut from the knuckle, free the brake line from the strut body (two bolts per side) then twist the lower part of the strut to the proper adjustment. The front uses the steering bearing to allow the strut body to turn so you don't have to unbolt anything to adjust the front.
I set the front to 3 clicks from soft and the rear to 2 clicks. Ride is tight and firm, much like my '02 WRX was when new - probably a bit firmer. Possibly like a STI/EVO level of firmness. It can be a bit jittery at slow speeds, but smooths out nicely at higher speeds. Of course, I still need to play with it and work on F/R balance. A full alignment come later this week.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5686/23000359886_c855fa3d95_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/681/22608077537_16638495e3_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/639/22403645164_730cf05d83_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5768/22634181929_b3db0ba356_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/712/23037579621_d3804a0fcc_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5729/22634198759_2e051c8dac_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/769/22608108857_f7ba0517d0_b.jpg
As expected, the original factory struts were way past their prime. I could likely compare it to an '80s Lincoln. Plus they wore unevenly, so it had this very disconcerting diagonal see-saw feeling over larger bumps and such. While on smooth surfaces it still held the road well, when it got bumpy things got a little shaky.
As most of us know the choices for replacement are far too limited. OEM and Koni are out because of age related quality problems. STI conversions are a bit to non-bolt-on for me, although I do admire those that make it work. That leaves Ceika and AMR. Reviews of Ceika indicated a few fitment problems while reviews of AMR talked of long waits and poor communication.
The only one that had no complaints of the actual product was AMR. I decided to deal with the possible communication and lead time issues. Communication turned out to be fine. Lead time was 2 months - about what I told myself it was going to be.
They are simply beautiful. I freely admit I don't have any other coil-over experience, but I do know a bit about machining, welding and fabrication in general and these pass the test. Very impressed.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5736/23000381696_297eb3253b_b.jpg
Using AMR's recommendation for a street setup/OEM replacement I ordered with all rubber mounted top plates (no-camber plates), softer springs (6K/4K IIRC), and the Swift spring upgrade (lighter?). The fronts use a bolted in rubber bushing w/integrated bearing that looks easily replaceable. The rears use a replaceable compression bushing set - pretty traditional.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5627/23037547901_7e11cb2ec2_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5724/22634166279_5eeeba5473_b.jpg
Installation went fine. Same as replacing an OE strut - minus the spring compressor and moving all the hardware to the new bare strut. The only installation issue was that on the front, the small bracket that holds the brake line to the strut body has it's thread hole one size too big. I used a longer bolt, ran it through the AMR strut threads, and put a nut on the far side.
Adjusting the rear height can be a little bit of a chore. I do not know what is normal for other coil overs, but on these the easiest way for me to adjust the rear was to unbolt the strut from the knuckle, free the brake line from the strut body (two bolts per side) then twist the lower part of the strut to the proper adjustment. The front uses the steering bearing to allow the strut body to turn so you don't have to unbolt anything to adjust the front.
I set the front to 3 clicks from soft and the rear to 2 clicks. Ride is tight and firm, much like my '02 WRX was when new - probably a bit firmer. Possibly like a STI/EVO level of firmness. It can be a bit jittery at slow speeds, but smooths out nicely at higher speeds. Of course, I still need to play with it and work on F/R balance. A full alignment come later this week.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5686/23000359886_c855fa3d95_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/681/22608077537_16638495e3_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/639/22403645164_730cf05d83_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5768/22634181929_b3db0ba356_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/712/23037579621_d3804a0fcc_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5729/22634198759_2e051c8dac_b.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/769/22608108857_f7ba0517d0_b.jpg