front brake rotors

[shelly]

any recommendations for replacement front rotors
don't need drilled and slotted

[Huskymaniac]

any recommendations for replacement front rotors
don't need drilled and slotted

When I replace mine I will either go with Centric Cryo treated rotors or r1concepts cross drilled. Cryo treatment and cross drilling will help to avoid "warping" down the road as will switching to carbon-metallic composite pads. It isn't about racing as much as it is about avoiding "warped" rotors.

[92snowmachine]

cryo treating rotors doesn't keep them from warping.

[SubaruJawn]

drilled and slotted are best for dissipating generated heat.
i have a set on my XT6, and will get a set for my Next Subaru.

[svxcess]

When I replace mine I will either go with Centric Cryo-treated rotors or r1concepts cross-drilled. Cryo treatment and cross-drilling will help to avoid "warping" down the road as will switching to carbon-metallic composite pads. It isn't about racing as much as it is about avoiding "warped" rotors.

Precision Brakes and Stoptech are in agreement that brake judder and vibration is caused by brake rotors, which have become warped from excessive heat, is a myth.

See article HERE (http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths)

I am using the Raceconcepts dimples/ slotted rotors and Akebono Pro_ACT full ceramic pads all around.

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[Huskymaniac]

Precision Brakes and Stoptech are in agreement that brake judder and vibration is caused by brake rotors, which have become warped from excessive heat, is a myth.

See article HERE (http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths)

I am using the Raceconcepts dimples/ slotted rotors and Akebono Pro_ACT full ceramic pads all around.

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I agree and have actually spoken with the head Stoptech guy. That's why I put warped in quotation marks. It really comes down to removing heat. Supposedly drilling is better than slots for removing heat. Does cryo treating help with heat? Supposedly it does but I couldn't tell you why. I would think that cross drilling and using pads with high thermal conductivity is the best combination. But if the cross drilling isn't done right, the rotors can crack.

[Huskymaniac]

Here is a link I found on cryo treating:

http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/cryo.html

It claims that surface uniformity is improved, which should help spread out the heat. It also claims that thermal conductivity is better. Finally, it claims that cracking from residual stress is reduced as is wear. So maybe a rotor that is cry treated before cross drilling is the best bet. You get the benefits of cross drilling, avoid the cracking issues, get better thermal properties, get a more uniform surface and get more miles before the rotors get too thin, which also leads to localized overheating.

[92snowmachine]

Here is a link I found on cryo treating:

http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/cryo.html

It claims that surface uniformity is improved, which should help spread out the heat. It also claims that thermal conductivity is better. Finally, it claims that cracking from residual stress is reduced as is wear. So maybe a rotor that is cry treated before cross drilling is the best bet. You get the benefits of cross drilling, avoid the cracking issues, get better thermal properties, get a more uniform surface and get more miles before the rotors get too thin, which also leads to localized overheating.

i have heard lots of claims for cryo treating but they always back down when questioned hard or some sort of warranty to back their claims is asked for. my friend with a machine shop sends parts out for freezing before machining them and says they machine very well after being frozen but it's easier to machine them, and they don't wear out his tools as fast. he didn't know why they seem softer but this is in contradiction to their claims. i have seen lots of parts cryo treated from spark plugs (for mileage) and distributor drive gears(to prevent sheering the gears) to brake rotors (to prevent warping and supposedly last forever) and tools (to make them unbreakable). all have had the same results, pretty much none.

[Crazy_pilot]

I'm just running plain NAPA rotors all around. This may have something to do with the fact that I got the parts at cost through my old shop and paid about $250 for NAPA's premium line of parts, but I've been very satisfied with them.

Between a decent ceramic pad, good quality rotors, and fresh brake fluid I'm absolutely confident that the average driver, even one who goes for the occasional spirited romp, will see no problem. Realistically if you're putting enough heat into your brakes to worry about higher performance parts, you shouldn't be doing it on public roads and should equip your car accordingly.

[92snowmachine]

I'm just running plain NAPA rotors all around. This may have something to do with the fact that I got the parts at cost through my old shop and paid about $250 for NAPA's premium line of parts, but I've been very satisfied with them.

Between a decent ceramic pad, good quality rotors, and fresh brake fluid I'm absolutely confident that the average driver, even one who goes for the occasional spirited romp, will see no problem. Realistically if you're putting enough heat into your brakes to worry about higher performance parts, you shouldn't be doing it on public roads and should equip your car accordingly.

i have napa rotors and pads as well. i opted for the slotted and cross drilled but probably don't need them. good thing about napa is if you have any issue you can return them to any napa. they rarely make a fuss even if they know you are returning something that you have abused or broken.